Russ, Scuff the wood where it mates with the barrel and the hood. The epoxy will seal the wood, where sealant was removed. Don't need to sand right to the edge of where the metal mates with the wood. Leave a small (1/8") border of wood unsanded. That way, you won't risk marring anything visible. Should have said that I glue the grip to the blank before I even touch the seat. It sounds li
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Like with so many processes in this craft, there are several ways to reach the same end....I usually glue in stages, using 5 minute Devcon. First, I glue the threaded barrel to the insert. Next, I'll glue the hood to the grip. This ensures (for me) a better fit than attaching the completed reel seat into the recess of the grip. Also, it keeps the hood where it needs to be, relative to the morti
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Apply a layer of epoxy first. Then, apply the decal. I would coat a peel and stick with CP or fixative before coating with finish, because it is possible for the epoxy to attack the adhesive layer of the decal, and separate it from the rest of the decal. The reason for applying epoxy to the rod first is to create a very smooth surface for the decal. If you apply the decal directly to the blan
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Don't have any idea on the finish, but I would try CitriStrip. It is realtively non-toxic, and works great on a lot of older finishes.
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You are probably tossing 3/4 oz Little Cleos to Kings, Cohos, Browns, and Steelhead. If you're lucky, you might hook into a 20 pounder (Chinook). I used to fish the Milwaukee side, years ago, and I always wanted more distance. If I was building a rod today, for that purpose, I would check out the Batson IST 1025
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You'll find that a Minima 4 size 4 has about the same opening as a ceramic size 6.
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Only one time did I have epoxy attack the adhesive layer of the decal, but it was enough to make me always use a CP, prior to applying finish.
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If you have a fly shop near you, ask to demo some different lines, with your rod. Most will have reels lined for the various rods that they sell.
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If you aready have a rod that you like, use that as a model for the new rod, but with better guide placement and lighter guides. You'll be amazed at how well that first rod turns out, and, of course, there will be "opportunities" for improvement. But, if you take your time, and do a little research, it's not that difficult to produce a very useful fishing tool, on your first try. Deve
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I turn by hand, but I'm seeing that having a dryer would be a big help for some of these projects, if I want to get some sleep or not be tied to the rod room for 8 hours at a time.
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I thought that my epoxy was finished setting , and I went to sleep. The next morning I noticed that the epoxy sagged just a bit overnight. Can I remove the sag with a razor an re-coat? Teh sag is not very big; can I just re-coat over it? The area in question is a feather inlay with a lot of time into it. I really don't want to tear it all down , and start over.
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I like the gold, copper, and aluminum Testor's metallics.
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thanks guys. It seems to working just fine, after 10 seconds in the microwave, prior to mixing.
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My LS Supreme Resin is really thick, I hope because of the cooler temperatures in my workshop, lately, and not because of contamination or spoilage. Is it OK to use if I heat up a bit in the microwave? Or, would you recommend getting new finish? Short of mixing a batch and waiting 6 hours, is htere any other way to tell if it's still good?
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On a previous post I inquired if anyone had experience with the ALPS guides in saltwater. They are SS316, and, as long as they are not coated, they should hold up very well, and they are very inexpensive, compared to titanium.
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A tamer can be added at any time. I would build the rod first, do some test-casting, then tape on a tamer 3 or 4 inches up from the stripper, and cast some more. If it turns out that it helps the distance (and you don't mind the unorthodox look), wrap it. I know tradition says half wells for lighter rods, say up to 5 or 6 weight, but I prefer a full wells on all fly rods these days. Once upon
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Does anyone have saltwater experience with the ALPS (SS316) guides? Thoughts?
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I have the same problem. I find that using hand lotion on a consistent basis really helps, just try not to use it right before working on a rod. I usually use CP, and haven't noticed any problems with contaminating the thread. If you don't use CP, there may be a fish-eye issue. I'm not really sure. The other thing I do is to keep a camel hair brush handy. I use it to gently "dust"
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Dan, The orientation of the bent tip is a much more important consideration than the orientation of the spine. Even on a perfectly straight blank (if there is such a thing), the spine is not a major factor. You can use the search function on this site, searching "spine" and "all dates", and do some reading. It has been the topic of lengthy discussion, but I think the final
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polyester is good. Cotton and rayon is not good. 40 wt is a little bigger than A. I like Coats and Clark Trilobal. Also check out Mettler. You may need to use color preserver. Some sewing machine threads have a lubricant that will contaminate your finish, but epoxy or a urethane (PermaGloss, Lumiseal) will not harm the thread, with or without CP.
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That's not enough of a bend to make any practical difference. I would just build them, aligning the bend in the tip "up" position, so that the weight of the guides tend to pull it down straight. The rods will fish just fine.
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I use the hot glue, and never had a problem. As others have said, I remove the rod finish where the tip will fit, using a green "scrubbie". I also rough up the inside of the TT using a small drill bit, like a mini rat-tail file.
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From the AmTak website: Australian Rod Manufacturers Gary Howard P.O. Box 452 Strathpine Qld, 4500 Phone: (07) 3881 3550 Fax: (07) 3881 3325
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CP will also help to prevent the thread from releasing little air bubbles into the finish.
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375 to 425 grain Scandi is what Batson recommends for that blank.
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Call around to some fly shops. Spey casting is "in" right now. Guys are using it to fish some not very big rivers because it lets them fish a fly "on the swing" all the way to other side of a modest size river. Most shops will be happy to let you test cast several different running line/shooting head/sinking tip combinations to find what best suits your rod and intended use
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Sam, Have you cast the Orvis ZG? If you live near an Orvis store, ask them to let you test cast one. Personally, I would recommend that someone just getting started with fly-casting takes a few lessons. Once you have a proficient casting stroke, you'll have a much better idea of what type of action suits your casting style. You may find that you actually prefer a slower action. Tryi
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Heat works well, and bamboo is almost indestructible, but be careful, it will ignite just like a dry stick, if you get too close with the heat gun. Check to make sure that there isn't a pin holding the ferrule in place. If there is a pin, you'll have to push it out, before pulling the ferrule off, or else you'll splinter the bamboo.
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I apply PG with a foam brush. Load the brush with PG, lower it to the wrap, rotate the wrap on revolution. Then, move the brush over, and repeat. Touch up any missed spots, and move on to the next wrap. Once the PG is on the wrap, do not mess with it, as it sets up very quickly. I make my own foam brushes by cutting narrow strips of foam, and taping them to a stick. When I'm finished with a
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PermaGloss for my fly rods. 3 coats give you plenty of protection, and allow the thread's texture to show through. It's kind of a similar look to rods that have been finished with varnish, not exaclyt shiny, minus the yellowing. PG is clear as gin. You can build it up to 6 or 7 coats to make it shinier and cover the thread's texture, but that adds weight, and is not necessary from a protecti
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