It should be fairly snug where it is going to sit. Like Tom said, mine usually slides easily to within about an inch of its final spot. If you slightly over ream it, don't worry; you can take up the space with some thread wraps
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I've used cork stoppers from ACE hardware (in the fasteners section). They come in many sizes, and can be sanded down to fit the hole. Glue them in, and sand to match the shape of the butt.
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Single foot equals one less wrap per guide equals less work and less weight. Snake guides don't form ice as easily in the winter and they pass connections more easily than a comparably sized single foot.
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Make sure that the winding check is a little bit loose. A tight fitting WC can cause failure, when the rod is deeply flexed.
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Contact Bingham. They list both on their website.
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Call Rick's rods in Denver. He had ferrules for my South Bend. Be advised that some sizes are almost impossible to find. The 11/64th male comes to mind. Johnny at Angler's Roost may also have something that will work for you, and he'll take it back if it doesn't fit.
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Hurricane force winds from the west...I could fish Nebraska, if I had enough line.
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It's Made in USA, fiberglass, Voyager 4 pc 6wt, pack rod. I'm guessing 70's, but not sure.
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I have a Fenwick rod with Feralite ferrules. The inscription says to lubricate with parafin. I have read in this forum that it is not advisable to use parafin as a lubricant. Should I disreagrd the manufacuterer's recommendation?
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Cabela's has a weight forward floating line for $29.99. I would probably go for the 6 weight line. It will load easier at shorter distances, and it will handle the wind better. It's hard to know for sure without determining ERN and ELN, but I know from experience that that particular blank handles my 6 weight line (can't remember the brand) quite capably, out to about 45 feet, or so. Beyond t
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After Sunday's Packers' loss to the Chiefs, the town of Park Falls went into mourning. There will be some production delays...
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FWIW, I am primarily a fly-fisherman (although I do spin fish frequently and bait-cast occassionally). I have an old, 8'6", 6wt. bamboo rod that is very un-straight, in several different directions. I find that I can cast extremely accurately with it, once I get re-acquainted to its idiosycracies. It is heavier, slower, and 6 inches longer than my favorite fly rod, a modern, graphite 4wt;
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Just a theory... You are right-handed, and cast side-armed. The blank that you built has a faster action and maybe more power than other rods that you have used. this is causing the lure to go left of the target. Once you get used to the new rod, all will be well. The guides have very little effect on the trajectory of the lure (unless they are completely out of whack...)
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I doubt that you'd notice a difference in feel or performance between the weight of a 16 and a 20, given the location of the guide. The 16 could change the line path enough to decrease distance. You might gain a bit of performance, and possibly feel, by going with smaller running guides, say, size 4 instead 6. Guide material is another important consideration. Pac Bay Minimas (thin metal ring
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Testor's metalics (gold, siver ,aluminum, copper) seem to work best with nib pens.
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It may fuel requests for builds on those particular blanks, but just like with St Croix, expect the blanks to retail for the price of a completed rod from the manufacturer.
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FWIW, I built an Utmost closeout 8' 2 piece 4 weight this past Spring. I paid $13 dollars for that blank, I believe. It has become my favorite fly rod. It is very light and very "crisp", able to handle fairly strong winds and everything from size 24 midges to size 10 grasshoppers.
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Call Utmost, although I would guess, by now, the pickings are getting pretty slim. At $18 to $35 per blank, you could always use them for repairs, extensions, reamers, backscratchers, etc. if you don't like them.
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If you can't find what you're looking for among the sponsors, you might call Rick's Rods in Denver. He has a bunch of NOS fiberglass blanks. However, his prices are not cheap. If you use a spinning blank, keep in mind that it is likely to have a much faster action than a fly blank, which may require that your friend adapt his casting style/timing. If your friend fishes in the winter, don't u
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You can use a file, but I find that they don't work as quickly, or as uniformly as a reamer. I'll use a file to enlarge the bore enough to accept a reamer, and I'll also use it to "fine tune" the bore, where I need to remove a bit of cork from a specific area inside the grip. To keep the hole centered, I make marks at 0, 90, 180, and 270 degrees on the end of the grip. I start by doin
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It is a 5 piece rod, and I wanted it to appear to be 1 piece. I reinforced all the ferrules with Gudebrod Blue Dun, wihout CP. It is a pretty close match (I can see blue, without a problem. It's reds and greens that get me...) To wrap the guides, I went with Gudebrod Garnet (with CP) and black trim (the seat has black hardware). I think that it would really look cool without the CP. I use
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Thanks for the suggestions.
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Maryann, Some vibration is practically unavoidable, but if the vibration is robbing you of distance, you may need to alter your casting stroke. When casting a fly rod, you "accelerate to a stop". If that stop is too abrupt or if the acceleration isn't smooth, you can introduce all sorts of wobble and shake to the rod. I would go out a large grassy area, and play around with it a bit
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Building a 4wt Forecast (dark blue) blank, with a rosewood seat and chrome guides. I am "challenged" when it comes to seeing colors as they really are. Any thread/trim suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
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Rob, I've never tried it, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Here's are some inexpensive fiberglass blanks that might fit the bill. If the experiment fails, you wouldn't be out too much money.
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You could make the marks with a sharpie. If you ever change your mind, they can be removed with a little isopropyl. You could also use thread wraps, and cover them with color preserver. The CP will protect them for a long time, but is easily removed with alcohol, as well.
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Dale, A rear grip with an outer diameter of 1 inch (25.4mm) fits almost perfectly inside the Aero seat. I would ask the supplier to fit the grip to the seat, and you may need to sand it, just slightly, to get it to fit. This can be done by hand, if you don't have a lathe. Cork does compress a bit; so, you can leave the grip just a hair (maybe half a hair) oversized. Then, when you push it in
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I have mixed feelings. I like ceramic single foots on the 6wt that I use for bigger freshwater trout (20+inches). There seems to be less wear on the line and the guides, and there is less friction while fighting a fish. On my 4 weight, I have single foot wire guides, and that rod casts very crisply. I use snakes on bamboo rods, for the sake of tradition, but also find that snakes pass connec
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Try Anglers Roost.
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I would add that if you're going truly minimalist, you may want to saw off any threaded barrel that's not needed, assuming you'll always be using the same reel. You can use temporary masking tape arbors to hold everything in place while you fit it up.
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