Its old school. Dale Clemons showed that method years ago. It keeps everything nice and straight. The problem is as said it takes twice as long as Tom's method of "treating two threads as one"
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Titanium as long as you can drop the change. Perhaps since you are just starting out you may want to save some cash on this one till you get some experience wrapping. Along with the weight savings you will also get guides that will hold up to the salt water for years to come. Spiral is the only way to go and guide size choices you have are a good choice.
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Lynn just also learned something. I am about 10 miles from the same. I live in effort and am a manager at Dunkelbergers sports oufitters. I have been a rod builder for 25 years or more.
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what mr Blomme said is so true. color twist thread that holds together like the old gudebrod just cannot be had.
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Avet all day!!
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I routered a inlay area in wood inserts. Aplied a decal and coated the whole piece with epoxy finish. then sanded it down on the lathe bringing back to wood. Polish the inlet area and you have a inlay decal. Much the same process as inletting pins stamps etc.
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Summerland Key 1- $6 unwrapped 2- $8 per wrap plus the cost of the guide 3- $45 plus cost 4- $90 plus cost Lower key prices usually more then most.
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thanks guys see it now
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I tried to log on this am and got a error message. something like a new download version. Did anyone else experience this problem?
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Thanks Tom that's easy enough.
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Well said Mark!
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thank you
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Keith I really like that look. My question is how durable are the finish on them? Is it something that will scratch off over time?
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I for one am still waiting. Been thru it as I have every copy but 1-1 and always waiting for it to arrive. Every time I think its lost in the mail TK always says wait it will arrive and it does in a day or two. Patience not one of my strong points except when fishing.
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Clyde another thing is to let the company your ordering from know when ordering what size seat and handle you plan on using. let them know your also wanting a winding check for that set up and want it fit to the blank. I always also order a size up and down just to be safe. I never have enough winding checks in stock. Lately with my new metal lathe I have been making my own.
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I drill first at 1/2 or even more and install on threaded mandrel. Then shape on my metal lathe as it tends to be much more precise. Then I fill the bore with reel seat shims glued in place. After drying its just a matter of hand reaming and installation. Cuts down on weight and provides a better connection to the blank. 22 and 24 mm inserts fill in the center of almost any handle well. I have ha
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Robin, the answer is probably yes. If the wraps were not tight they certainly would tend to move when color preserver was applied. Also the application method can move the thread. If brushed on the brushing action will tend to move thread leaving gaps. Again though if tight enough that's a hard thing to do.
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two part jel epoxy. I do my spare boat fuses packed in oil.
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I agree John been wrapping about the same years. Made what I thought were bad color and pattern choices and started cutting. what makes us rod builders is the perfection goal. I haven't found perfection yet. maybe some day!LOL
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Dave may I suggest you think about recoil guides. I really like them in ice and prefer the black as it is better if any sun at all. But the flick of a thumb if ice does happen to build up sends it flying without damage. I do prefer single foot but that's a preference
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I save and pour my extra epoxy into a pharmacy pill bottle. I have done all sorts of things with them over the years. Marbled, inlayed fly, plain colored powder coats, etc. And once its long enough I simple drill the center put on mandrel and turn down to reel seat inserts, butt caps on what ever.
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SANFORD, One thing I had happen too me with both perma-gloss and Lumaseal both is received during winter months. It either product freezes it will jel up. just a thought. Also if old stock it doesn't keep for ever.
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Good stuff Pete!! done a few of them but never exactly with that process. Now that's what this board is for!
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worked with the cobra didn't like it as much. Diamond back looks good but again really has to be the little snakes as large or even medium diamond gets lost around the rod. My favorite has always been the canebreak though. That line is just so distinct. Tom, Barry, Rick, I will get that company's name for you. I have there catalog somewhere in my mess. lol
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Tom Canebreak is my favorite. Have my private stock from the big show perhaps 10 years ago. You really really need the very small and delicate skins and they HAVE to be tan correct. Don't fall for some of the skins on the bulk sale sights. I will get the name on the company I ordered from at the show. It's at my home shop. These guys are good and reasonable. Again only the small skins and dried
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one suggestion john would be flocking the grip. Great in the cold with wet hands and no slip. Again I agree with my AK brother. Depends on what the fish size,depth, using a bob house etc etc.
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stay away from wd40 its a oil that will stay. Boeshield t9 is the best. it will remove any corrosion problems and leave a thin coating of a paraffin like wax. GREAT STUFF
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Butt guide is a 20 then 16 looks like from there it chokes to a 10, 4 and last two are 2 to tip this is a 7ft MH and has 7 single foot guides and a tip top. Hope that is some help to you. As far as brand of guides there absolutely no markings at all but I would guess titanium frame with a sic insert.
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Cam I have the Vertus in my shop rack wall. What guides do you need to know for size?
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Get ahold of Renzetti. They will have one for you.
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