Curtis I did a Fenwick Ferlight for a friend last summer. It had 20 years worth of hard fishing. I just c.p.ed the exposed threads and put a coat of TM over them. It looked great and will last another twenty years. The first rod I ever built is a fenwick ferlight Kit I got in the mail. A little 7 ft 2 wt fly rod. I paired it with a new hardy brothers reel and went to the stream trout hunting back
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See I don't know if that fits into Rod maker enough for Tom but I agree Russ. With the "off set" graphite handle like Steve taught me and a really nice "tape Job" I could talk some of those guys I mentioned into a ten. handle. Hope your paying attention Mr. Gardner as Russ and I just found your next article for RM lol. With all your spare time and all.
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ok Russ in escense we do the same thing. Heres my problem, with the ronzetti as ralph said the renzetti is just not always right. Seems like you spend more time tweeking the tweeker then the guides as its always out of adjustment. Heres my problem with the way you do it russ. The method too me doesnt take into account the bend in the rod. Most middle price blanks i find are not perfectly straigh
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One of the things I hear is the way of attaching the reel to the seet is a comon complait. For whatever reason guys don't like the "tape method" and the rings never seem to hold after a season or two. Atleast thats what i hear.
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I like a lot of guy's started building because I couldn't afford a new fangled rod material back in the early 80's called GRAPHITE. So I sent away for a kit from fenwick and it came with a how too brochure written by Dale Clemons. Didn't build much after that for a number of years. Then one day I started building again and couldn't stop. After awhile of giving to friends I had so many rods laying
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Steve Gardner is the greatest! I wanted to make a tenn handle and he took time out of his busy plumber schedule to walk me thru the way he builds tenn. handles. I followed his directions per the issue of rm and his directions over the phone and am the proud owner of I think the finest tenn rod made. The only thing i havn't done is wrap the reel to the rod but will have to get a reel worth attqach
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Guide alignment has alway's been a time consuming affair for me. Even when done I was alway's second guessing myself. I have a master lathe and a couple of years ago I got the laser tool for it thinking my problems were solved. Well if it's not perfectly leval and perfectly straight by the second or third guide your attaching some where in the middle of the room. And between every build I was alw
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Marc I just got done building one for a customer. He is a bass fishermen who fishs tournements. I used graphite tube for the handle but for the same guy I have built cork also. He buys two a year and is a great customer. He says a lot of his buddy's use the same and will be needing. Hope thats true as It's a fast easy build and good money.
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I use the graphite arbors. There is space between every arbor. Hve used the flex coat from time to tiome though.
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Well if you have a perfect fit with the seat you could but the slow cure is sort of like rod bond. It fills in any spaces and voids.
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In reading a couple of threads yesterday it dawned on me that I may have a little tip that I do for some of you. Now I don't know a lot of you may already do this but if not try it. I use Lamar 15 minute cure and slow cure together. First I mix the slow cure then I mix the either 5 or 15 minute. I use the 15 on the hind grip then the slow cure on the seat and finally 15 on the fore grip. The two
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Doc you are amazing. I was thinking what I did different last night and it dawned on me. It was late and I wanted out of the shop. I also didn't want to leave the dryer on all night cheap as I am. So I moved my work light down to about 6 inchs from the wrap for a half hour just before I left. Hello thats what doc asked. This is a big oh heck moment! I hope I can save it as I just noticed a lot o
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Sounds like the thread was contanimated. Meybe a oil on the thread's as some threads I have heard are coated to use in sewing machines. Take the thread you used apply it to a scrap rod or dowel and aply a finish to test it.
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I was just applying Thread Master to a wrap last night and this morning when I chcked I had two big bubbles about a 16th inch. The wrap is a closed wrap on a large diameter rod and about 5 inches long. I have never had a problem like this before. I aplied the finish and was working around the shop for two or three hours after word and checked it before i left and the bubbles were not there. As a
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Henry simple yet genious. I have to try it. Wonder if I could remove the rod that is in it and insert a mandrel. If that would allow the easy removal and insertion of the clamp part. HMM stay tuned.
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Ya no thanks..Don't really want to hear what all your little "nerd" friends have to say. Glad your so happy with yourself just please keep it off the phorum. Ever ask yourself why you have had a "spat" with everyone on this forum? Ever ask yourself why some of the greatest contributers to the craft don't post here anymore? What exasctly is it your trying to make up for by maki
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The purpose of this forum if I am not mistaken is to share information and experiences as well as have questions answered on the subject of rod building. I am assuming Tom never intended this forum to help "Sell books" or to "Stroke already inflated ego's". It's really ashame but I no of several of the most noligable experts on the subject in the world who won't post here anym
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Wow Billy didn't mean to offend you as a matter of fact I own your book. If you read what I said you understand I was alluding to the fact that without the visual wrap which I don't own the book is a little hard to follow. It goes into great detail about how to use visual wrap with the book. As to my work I am plenty secure with it and certainly don't need you to tell me anything about it. I met
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Also I would be real carful using something that strong. Tom I use a razor blade at a angle and scrape. It's a lot of work so I don't do it cheap. After I have scraped the whole blank I wrap it top to bottom and apply lite tm. No color presever. Sometimes it takes 2 coats but usually one will do. Oh I forgot to mention after scraping I sand grits 100 thru 2,000 somtimes 4,000 if its a fine rod.
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Loo I strongly suggest Dale clemons books. Both thread art and rod making are like a bible for me. To me the Billy V book is much more confusing. If you buy the software to go with his book perhaps it would make more sence to me. It is hard to follow. At any rate both books have the same paterns. When you buy dale's books you get a lot more info then just thread art. Any serious rod builder would
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I leave enough room for the reel to seet and cut the rest as long as the guy gives me the reel. I have even gone so far as to go to the local bass pro shop when the guy tells me the reel he is using and measure the reel foot. (Good excuse to go buy toys for me!) Used to tell the wife i was working when i went. Guess thats why I'm in the middle of a divorce LOL. Oh well more time to fish.!
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This is a good question. I too am wanting to build a drying box in the near future. For what you get in a pre-built the cost is great. Perhaps Tom is listening as it would be a great how too in rm.
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I build a lot of these rods. What I do is use double foot guides on the first two or three guides and single foot out at the tip. The best of both worlds.
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dito Mark that was a big help
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Not even close mike sorry. The fugi is almost a polished silver looking and the am tec is sort of dull almost like a gun metal. Then again why do they have to match?
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I disagree with roger! I have found and others here have too that if you mix a new batch and coat over the old one it will harden. Try one guide if you want to prove it.
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Tom did I see that chuck in a old rod crafters from way back? It seems to me I have seems to me I have seen it some where but not sure. Meybe dale clemons book? I love the updated version with aluminum and the rubber rings great idea. Why are guys not using pistol grips anymore?
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Im doing a spiral wrap for a off shore "pool Q" for someone. Should I put the first guide at 12 or 11 oclock? Also what about the rest of the guides? I figured number two at 9oclock number 3 at 7 oclock and finish out to the tip at 6 oclock. I know the importent thing is that the line doesn't touch the blank but is there a general rule of thumb? Spiral wraps are not my thing but its goo
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Scott I am in the middle of putting together a simelar proposal for a doctor client of mine. I would reccomend you speak with Bob at custom tackle. He really hooked me up with the best blank and guides. I haven't finished the deal yet but he was impressed with my suggestions. Thanks to bob I know I will get the job. I am not in my office but I think the blanks were seeker and Loomis. Im sure the
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Dave very interesting would love to see it in person. With the 811 old formula gone and me down to my last bottle i will need a new one soon. Is there any chance you will bring the sample stick to high point? The screen I'm using is terrable so I really can't give it a fair assesment but I can't wait to see a consensus. Wish andy would put out a cp.
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