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Current Page: 1 of 16
Results 1 - 30 of 459
5 weeks ago
Bill Hickey
I don't have any experience with Airflow lines, but on the several Affinity X rods I have, the best all around line I have found is the Cortland Trout Boss double taper. The Rio Grand and Gold also worked well, but to me, the DT Trout Boss works the best for all around situations.
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Bill Hickey
CTS Vintage is a tad bit softer than the Affinity M. Your choice would depend on what you want to do with the rod. The Affinity M would offer a bit more versatility, dries, dry/dropper, nymphing, light streamer work. The Vintage gets the nod if you fish wets, dries and dry/dropper rigs. You won’t find the Vintage on the CTS site, but Herb can order it for you.
Forum: rodboard
6 weeks ago
Bill Hickey
First, don’t put anything on the ferrules, wax or epoxy, not needed, just keep them clean like any other ferrule. The “smooth” area of female ferrule is something that several blank manufactures are doing now with blanks that still have the spiral ridge left on them. Seems like more blank companies are moving in that direction. Some say it allows for a better fit, little bit of wear over time
Forum: rodboard
7 weeks ago
Bill Hickey
Of the glass I have built on : McFarland GTX, those blanks are a blend of S2 and E glass. I have been told the NFC glass is a fast blank, but I don’t have any experience with them. I have fished and built on the following: CTS Quartz, Livingston Rod Co, Steffen Brothers, Kabuto, Tom Morgan, Larry Kenney, Epic and my own tapers.
Forum: rodboard
8 weeks ago
Bill Hickey
You have plenty of options especially if you are looking for an all metal seat, several of the board sponsors carry stuff from REC, American Tackle, Batson and Pacific Bay, plus a few I may not have mentioned. Joel Lemke has a couple also, he is the guy that makes Snake Brands skeletons. If you are looking for a wood with metal seat, that .588 bore is going to be tough, possible with certain
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Bill Hickey
There is a Forum that caters to glass, Fiberglass Flyrodders , you'll find some reviews of the North Fork glass there, I do a lot of glass builds, but I've never built on the North Fork offerings.
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Bill Hickey
Lets not forget the R & D that goes on behind the scenes prior to the release of a series. The actual cost of that blank may be down to X once it is all ready to go, but XXX was spent to get to that point. I have a buddy of mine that just dropped a fair amount of coin on buying his own rolling equipment, mandrels and prepeg. Its a very significant investment, we all know what he needs to
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Bill Hickey
I have a CTS 11’-3” 2/3 Spey. With a Sagit line it likes a 215 grain head. A Wulff Ambush 5wt also works well, but I prefer the Rio 215 Sagit. I’m considering getting a 4/5 CTS, maybe a bit longer length than the 11-3. I’ve been using my 11-3 for swinging a small bugger streamer with a nymph trailer, on medium to bigger trout rivers it has been working out very well.
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Bill Hickey
3 sizes of guides. Start with a #10 stripper, then a couple of #2’s rest 1/0’s with a small loop tip top. 11 or 12 guides total. I’ve used 11 plenty of times on that same blank. I just use a general placement chart, then Static load the blank and adjust the guides up or down so you get the fly line to follow the curve of the blank. You’ll probably get several opinions on this, just keep in m
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Bill Hickey
The first generation of Epic blanks, fiberglass, were rolled by CTS. The tapers were similar to some of the same CTS blanks and a few were totally different along with length and line weight configurations. Couple of things really exposed Epic to the glass world of flyfishers, they really did a bang up job of advertising and marketing their products. Were some of their blanks better than a CTS in
Forum: rodboard
6 months ago
Bill Hickey
This may offer you some help: The production rod, how old is it compared to the blank? The company they are from, do they roll their own blanks or do they source them from another company that does third party work? I'll give you an example where the model name did not change (or very little). Back when Swift Fly Fishing came on the scene with their Epic Glass rods, the blanks were rolled b
Forum: rodboard
7 months ago
Bill Hickey
I'd try calling Thomas and Thomas for specifics. If my memory is correct, they were made in the 1990's. The rods I am picturing were natural graphite with a clear coat, dark warps, maybe black?
Forum: rodboard
7 months ago
Bill Hickey
CTS Affinity X.
Forum: rodboard
7 months ago
Bill Hickey
I know there are a couple of builders that do those types of builds in the Verona to Syracuse area. I've run into them at shows, but I cannot remember their names. I'd call a few of the conventional tackle shops in the area, they should be able to help, they'll know who does builds and repairs on the spin and casting stuff. I'm a bit east of Canastota, about 100 miles, and I only do fly rod b
Forum: rodboard
7 months ago
Bill Hickey
I set up an account with Fed Ex. Since 99% of my builds come with an Aluminum tube, I wrap them in bubble wrap, then in a Square sided box. It actually costs more with Fed Ex to ship a round tube. No issues with them, it arrives on the day they say it will and no damage. If your going to ship a rod without a tube, best to ship it in PVC then a cardboard box. Same goes for blanks. The past 2 ye
Forum: rodboard
7 months ago
Bill Hickey
I cover the new labels with epoxy, no need for CP or anything to pre coat them before using your thread finish epoxy. I don’t have any problems with getting a level, long finish spot. Although I will say the higher viscosity finishes seem to work better on longer finish spots, they just level easier. Probably has something to do with how I apply my finish also. One cool thing is that you can
Forum: rodboard
7 months ago
Bill Hickey
As far as I know, there are only 4 companies rolling FG Fly Rod Blanks in the USA. Steffen Brothers, now owned by Shane Grey, Greywolf Products McFarland Rod Co, Mike McFarland Livingston Rod Co, Dusty Smith North Fork Composites I know Shane rolls a 6ft 2/3 weight, I have one from the Mark and Tim days, sweet rod. McFarland does have some stuff shorter than 7ft, I have built on his 6
Forum: rodboard
8 months ago
Bill Hickey
Just to add, there is a book by Mike Sinclair named “The Bamboo Rod Restoration Guide”. While it is out of print, used copies can be found. It has a wealth of good info on fixing up old Bamboo. It even gives you the correct thread colors and specifications for many common brands, like your South Bend. Word of caution, prices on this book can be all over the map, hunt around and you’ll find one
Forum: rodboard
8 months ago
Bill Hickey
The most common used finish on Bamboo for thread wraps is Marine Grade Spar Varnish. While there may be a few people on here with experience related to Bamboo work, your best source is another forum called the Classic Rod forum. That South Bend was finished with Spar when it was first built. I would not recommend a 2 part thread finish epoxy. While products like the U-40 Permagloss was develo
Forum: rodboard
8 months ago
Bill Hickey
There are several forum sponsors that carry the Crafty Cutter, plus several others that are not that should could have them in stock. Google could be some help.
Forum: rodboard
8 months ago
Bill Hickey
Just to add, most silk comes in 50wt, 100wt, and A. 50wt is a tad bit smaller in diameter than A, 100wt is smaller than 50. All will be plenty strong enough for guide wraps on a fly rod. I typically stick with A and 50wt for most of my work and use the 100wt for tipping.
Forum: rodboard
8 months ago
Bill Hickey
All 3 are quality brands. YLI in Natural, has given me the best results when I am looking for the thread to become clear, transparent look. I would recommend that you buy each brand and do some test wraps on your blanks. Put the test wraps where your grip will go, easy enough to remove once you find which thread gives you the look you are after.
Forum: rodboard
8 months ago
Bill Hickey
I'll say the same, if you are happy with Flex Coat and get good results, stick with it. I played around with a few different finishes over the years, they all work well, but they have certain quirks that you'll need to figure out. I settled on Threadmaster until the Gen 4 showed up. My experience is exactly the same as Michaels with it. Bubbles have never been an issue for me either. The one
Forum: rodboard
9 months ago
Bill Hickey
Having the first two or three guides of the same style starting from the butt will make no difference in how well a rod will cast. All it does is add extra weight, not much in your case due to the type of guides you are using, but it will add some. I’d go with the 16 as the Stripper (only the first guide is called a stripper, rest are running guides) maybe a #5 or #4 next, then 3’s the rest o
Forum: rodboard
9 months ago
Bill Hickey
I use the Rubbermaid drawers, labels on front of drawer for organizing by colors and brand.
Forum: rodboard
9 months ago
Bill Hickey
It happens, they break down, the outer coating near the factory loop. I’d do what Tom K says. Nail knot and perfection loop. Personally, I like the factory loops, but a well tied nail knot is just as seamless.
Forum: rodboard
10 months ago
Bill Hickey
I use Nylon 90% of the time without CP. I've done the same thing Terry has, "sample" wraps on scrap pieces of various blank colors, both Carbon and Fiberglass. I would recommend you do the same. If you want your thread color to be more visible on a dark blank, try using a color that will stand out more, example: Candy Apple Red on a Natural Carbon or Black Blank will darken a bit, but n
Forum: rodboard
10 months ago
Bill Hickey
If your looking for the thread to have almost no contrast to the blank color, I would recommend you buy a couple of colors, from Black down to Greys and do some test wraps on the butt section where your grip will go. Personally I think Black thread is going to stand out more than you may want. Pro Wrap A nylon is a fine thread and it will darken a bit when you apply your finish. Something like #8
Forum: rodboard
10 months ago
Bill Hickey
You kinda answered your question yourself, if your first coat looks great, why are you attempting to “clean it” ? If you have a bad spot in your first coat, like a dust particle, use a razor blade to shave it off. Never put any type of tape or liquid on freshly cured thread finish. Your just asking for problems when you apply your second coat. Any type of cleaning agent is going to leave a re
Forum: rodboard
10 months ago
Bill Hickey
If your looking to get totally invisible wraps, you'll need to use Natural color Silk. YLI has a Natural color silk. The ones labeled White will not work, especially on a darker blank. Nylon thread will not go invisible. As for your trim bands, if you are using a contrasting color, you'll need to do some test wraps, and keep the trim band thread the same or smaller diameter than the main wrap
Forum: rodboard
Pages: 12345...LastNext
Current Page: 1 of 16

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