I know there are tons of discussions on this board about how to use decals and an epoxy coating for the labels on our custom built rods. However, I have not been able to get a smooth, clean epoxy layer no matter how hard I try. Factory-built rods silkscreen (I think) the labels using a durable paint with no epoxy overcoat. Has anyone tried to do this on your builds? Is there equipment out there to do silkscreening on the scale of small rod blanks (fly rods)? Are there other alternatives for a durable label without the need to cover with epoxy?

Dale Thompson
Small-time fly rod builder

I hand write them with a fine nib pen and Testers paint (gold or silver). But, I do put a VERY thin coat over it. I’ve tried about everything including the different decals, etc… I’ve just found it’s easier and cheaper to hand write them. My biggest struggle with decals is getting all of the air bubbles out. No matter how good I think it looks, the second I put the epoxy over it, they show up. Thus, I quit using decals unless absolutely necessary.

I use both decals and handwritten inscriptions, just depends on the build if I use both or just one.

Testers paint in Gold, Silver and Copper works awesome with a fine nib pen. I will put a very light coat of of epoxy down in the spot to be inscribed, once cured, I take the shine off with 2000 grit sand paper, do the inscription and then coat with another layer of epoxy. Black India Ink also works with this method.

With decals, yes there is a learning curve with them and my opinion, not all decals are created equal. My best results have been with Decal Connection products, I have a "long" narrow decal with my brand and another that is an oval with my brand that goes on blanks that have rolled based on my own designs.
Again, I start with a light base coat of epoxy, once cured, apply the label, then coat with Color Preserver, let that dry for 24 hours and apply another coat. I do not have issues with a bubble showing up nor can you see the decal edges encapsulated in the epoxy. This has worked for some decals that will come with a blank, but I have had terrible results with some factory supplied decals. One example were the older Water Slide type of decal that was supplied with a Tom Morgan Rodsmiths blank, those things were a nightmare to get perfect. They have switched to stick on decals since.

Another note that I think needs to be spelled out, your rod finish, if you are using a 2 part, any brand, do not go off the reservation and introduce a solvent to thin it, in some cases it will damage the decal or break down the paint if you use Testers.

The addition of Color Preserver over a decal really seals up the edges and prevents any of the adhesion material that might be on the edge of decal to react with the epoxy.

Thanks fro the replies. What is the best brush to use to apply the epoxy? I tend toward a fine detail artist brush, 1/4 or 1/8", bristle

Dale Thompson
Small-time fly rod builder

Unless you super saturate your brush with epoxy, working it into all the brush prior to applying finish you have a chance of pulling bubbles right out of the brush fibers themselves. I have gone to using a spatula some years ago but when I did use a brush, I used a short haired flat brush starting at 1/4 inch and going to I believe 3/4 inch for larger work, they were permanently hung in Flexcoat Epoxy Brush Cleaner. For longer epoxy applications there is no rule that says you can't apply finish lengthwise, and I smoothed work often that way.

Dale, I know nothing about anything other than covering the decals with wrap epoxy, which is what I do. The problems most builders have with labels is that they are long, so any waviness is easily seen. The challenge is to get a smooth coat on the label. I've never been able to master using spatulas, only soft bristled brushes. The best method I've found is to put on thin coats with brush strokes going longitudinally along the blank. But don't put on so much that you have to take excess off. Put on multiple coats of thin coats as necessary being sure to get full coverage with each coat. If you have to take off excess, you are using way too much epoxy.

Dale, I also used to struggle with this.
I'm opposite of Michael with labeling. I use the scotch tape method, using the tape to align and apply the decal.
I align the label and lightly apply in the middle. I then burnish from the middle out to the top then bottom. I use a smooth metal dental pick to do this. I remove the scotch tape and roll the tool on the edges to smooth them down. The edges are usually the problem when applying finish. By burnishing out toward the top and bottom I seldom get air pockets..
Now this is how I differ from Michael, I apply epoxy in big globs around ang along the decal.
Then turning the rod rapidly (by hand rotation) I move my brush out towards the end. Usually having a bead of epoxy on the leading edge of the brush. It's wavy, but I then VERY lightly brush horizontally back towards the hook keep or winding check.
Excess epoxy will drip off or bunch up at the edge of hook keep wrap.
I let it sag to remove excess epoxy. Then rotate rod in quarter turns to let it smooth out.
Some labels are better than others.
The edges may be a little short on epoxy necessitating a second coat.
I make my own labels with Larry Tobins printer.
I almost always trim the labels with a very sharp pair of scissors.
High build epoxy can be your friend here, but if done well one coat of Gen 4 will do.
Sorry for the long winded response!

TJB

Dale Thompson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I know there are tons of discussions on this board
> about how to use decals and an epoxy coating for
> the labels on our custom built rods. However, I
> have not been able to get a smooth, clean epoxy
> layer no matter how hard I try. Factory-built rods
> silkscreen (I think) the labels using a durable
> paint with no epoxy overcoat. Has anyone tried to
> do this on your builds? Is there equipment out
> there to do silkscreening on the scale of small
> rod blanks (fly rods)? Are there other
> alternatives for a durable label without the need
> to cover with epoxy?


CLEAN CREDIT CARD

If using Testers paint, can you put permagloss over them without any problems? I know with some paints like Krylon Fusion Permagloss can react with and "burn".

Ryan, I would pretest any application of Permagloss over anything other than the bare blank and thread.