Fuji CMNAG
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Forum: rodboard

Acrylic Insert, Painted Blank, Matching Reel.
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Forum: rodboard

Burnt cork, natural cork, burl cork and white acrylic.
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This is NOT threadless.
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Minimal supplies and 20 minutes of actual working time over 1/2 day.
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32 rods, cost of $20
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Nice subtle match to Diamondback inlay.
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Lamiglas XMG, Fuji Chrome Alconite, One Coat of Diamondite without CP
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Love them. It is all that I use on rods other than tarpon (larger).
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Call Herb at HNL, he is the importer of CTS blanks in the US. If anyone knows Rich, it should be him.
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You might want to consider hitching a ride. Plenty of Alabama rod builders drive to the show each year. In respect to flights ... Charlotte (CLT) or Raleigh-Durham (RDU) and rent a car to drive just under 100 miles OR fly into Greensboro (GSO) Tri-Cities airport and catch a cab (30 minutes). Another possibility would be jumping Amtrak from Hattiesburg, MS. There isn't a really simple way to g
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Fuji's efforts to bring high quality product to the marketplace is well known. Odds are very good that it is worth the price being asked.
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Use silicon nitride.
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Hydra. Made in the US, board sponsor. Majority of my personal rods and exactly what I use for the technique.
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Hydra. Excellent blanks, great support. Owned by tournament bass fisherman. Made in the USA.
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I can pass a connection of 65# braid and 50# mono through a 7mm guide without issue. A proper knot doesn't take up NEARLY the area that folks imagine it does. 100# test mono is 0.99 mm, 100# braid is 0.46 mm. Unless you plan to tie a Christmas bow, your intended line connections will VERY easily pass a 10 mm guide or top. They would actually pass an 8mm without issue, but I always allow extra
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10mm will work just fine. My tarpon builds feature 10mm top and running guides with 65# braid and 50# leader, no issue whatsoever.
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Yes, just like any of the other frame styles. Double leg closest to the butt, single leg closest to the tip.
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No sir. They should "slope" upward toward the tip. The frame is a tangle-free design. This allows the line to slide over the frame in the event of a wind knot, etc.
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Nope. Anything removed from a blank will slow the action ... doesn't matter which end.
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Use fiberglass tape, beats masking tape 10 to 1 on days ending in "Y".
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Lynn - They work just fine. I have plenty of rods with them ... but with the older MW design (butt and reduction only), prior to American Tackle and the forced set of accompanying guides. The distance from reel face to butt guide is critical, the distance from butt guide to reduction guide is important, after that ... space the running guides to handle stress properly. Have at it, you won't
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