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This is the guide train loaded. Static test looks OK to me.
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This rod if for my Dad for his Birthday. Will be St Kilda theme for the Aussies on here and any others who know about AFL football.
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After my first attempt the other day on a dowel, I decided to get on with it and put the wrap on a rod. So here it is, again I think it turned out OK, not quite as straight as I would have liked but it's harder doing a wrap on the shiny surface of a rod blank than it is on a timber dowel. I know the tie off looks too long. That's my fault because I didn't anticipate doing a cross wrap on this rod
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This is my first attempt at a cross wrap. It is just a trial one on a piece of 1/2 inch dowel. I reckon it turned out OK. It's a pity I didn't decide to do it on the rod! Sorry the photo is a bit fuzzy, our camera is not real flash for macro shots.
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I built this rod for my Dad for his birthday. It's a Batson SB783-3 spiral wrap casting rod, with a St Kilda theme (his favourite AFL team).
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Tiger wrap, St Kilda logo and a bit of my writing as decoration in front of the foregrip. This is the first time I have used regualr nylon (the red) and I can see why people like it. Much more sparkle when coated.
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Thanks Jim, Lucky I've been slack and haven't ordered the bits yet. Cheers Jason
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G'day Guys, Thanks for all the responses. Norman, thanks, I reckon that's the way I'll go. I never thought of adding another section of threaded barrel but that is a great idea. Roger, this seat is split and the threaded portion is only a thread barrel on the blank, so the hood and nut can come right off the end of it, which means that length is normally not an issue. It is an issue her
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G'day, Thank you all for your replies. This is a fairly expensive semi-custom rod and the customer wants it fixed permanently. I'm leaning towards the back stop lock nut but with the reel in the seat there is only about 6-7mm of thread showing behind the nut. Does anyone know how wide the lock nut is and if it will fit in 6-7mm? I've put up a photo of the seat in the photos section so
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G'day Guys, I have been asked to have a look at a rod where the customer is having problems with the reel seat nut loosening during use and it is obviously giving him enough grief that he has bought it in to be looked at. The rod is a light spin rod and it has what I think is a Fuji SKSS split seat (i haven't determined the size yet) set up to be uplocking. There is a bit of play between the t
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If you have a blank that looks like aluminium, and you hold a magnet up to it and the magnet is not attracted to it, that only tells you that the blank is not made from a ferrous metal. It could still very well be aluminium, or another non magnetic metal, or fibreglass that looks like aluminium. Cheers Jason
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G'day Guys, Just to throw a spanner in the works, a magnet won't work. Most non-ferrous metals are not attracted to magnets, and aluminium is definitely one that is not attracted to magnets. Cheers Jason
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G'day Barry, Thanks for that. You are a champ! Cheers Jason
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G'day Baz, Thanks for that. Any idea what size seat you used? A 14 or a 16 maybe? Cheers Jason
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Thanks for the input Guys, I reckon I'll give the ALPS triangles a go (thanks Curtis) otherwise it might be back to graphite seats with locking nuts. Cheers Jason
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G'day All, I have a customer who prefers the look of aluminium reel seats on his light spin rods and seems to dislike graphite seats, partly because of looks and partly because in his experience the locking nut on graphite seats seem to loosen with use necessitating constantly tightening it. I recently built a spinning rod for him and used the Pacbay slim channel lock aluminium seat. Unfort
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G'day Guys, Thanks for your input. Yep this might be a tricky one. My customer doesn't want to spend too much on the rod either. If I had to strip and re-wrap all of those little trim bands it would take forever and I'm certain would go over his budget. I'll have to talk to him but maybe finding and replacing the missing guides plus replacing missing trim bands might do the trick. That way
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G'day Guys, A customer has given me an Ogden Smith "Montreal" cane fly rod to restore. I have never worked with cane before so I wanted to get some advice from those of you that have. So here's the deal. The rod is 3 piece and about 9' in length. It is not in good condition. Four guides have come off and I only have 2 of them. A number of the decorative wraps are missing (thin ban
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G'day Neil, Thanks, I'll do that. Cheers Jason
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G'day All, Can anyone tell me for certain if an AFTCO unibutt ferrule will fit into any of the AFTCO slip over reel seats? It looks to me like a #2 ferrule (0.970 OD) will fit in a #3 reel seat (1" ID) but I'm not sure because I don't know where the OD measurement of the ferrule is taken or if the OD is the same above and below the nut and I also don't know if they both use the same th
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Bill :-) Eric, thanks and that what what I was thinking about doing. Cheers Jason
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G'day Guys, Thanks for your input. It's epoxy all the way then! FWIW 680 Loctite is very strong. I have used it a fair bit and whilst it can be disassembled you need a fair amount of heat to do so, probably in the order of 150 degrees C. Or a very, very big hammer. Cheers Jason
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G'day All, I have an idea for a butt assembly that I would like to construct but it will involve joining some pieces of aluminium tube and machined aluminium inserts together. In order to make those joins, what do you think the most appropriate bonding agent would be, epoxy or one of the stronger anaerobic monomers like Loctite 680? I am leaning towards epoxy as it is also gap filling and w
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G'day Guys, Thanks for all the advice. I'll pitch the bottle of CP and start again. I think in future I will always decant it into something else too, rather than use it from the bottle. Cheers Jason
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G'day Chester, I did wonder if I wasn't mixing it properly. Would not mixing CP properly before applying cause fisheyes? Cheers Jason
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G'day Guys, Further to my post a little while back I think I may have isolated the source of my contamination. I think it is the CP I am using. I did 2 wraps a little while back, one with CP and one without. The one without CP was fine and the other had fisheyes galore. I'm not sure how this has happened. I use the same brush and wash it each time with CP. Unless I have somehow got somet
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G'day Roger, The scissors were just a pair of fine braid scissors, so probably not as nice as the scissors you are referring to. Can you actually trim a tag off dead flush with scissors? I tend to pull back on the tag end and then cut with the razor so you are actually cutting the tag short enough that it actually goes right under the wrap. Chris, I do have a scalpel handle and some blad
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Noooooo Roger, I can't give up my beloved razor blades! I have previously tried scissors and nail clippers and I keep coming back to the blades. They just seem to work well for me. Cheers Jason
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