Thanks Barry, Will do that. Yep freight can be a bit of a bugger but its probably worth it! Cheers Jason
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Thanks Guys, I appreciate your feedback. Where can I buy the Renzetti? Do I have to go straight from their website or do any of the suppliers on the left stock them? Cheers Jason
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Thanks Guys, I appreciate the input. Looks like it might be the Batson blanks then, as there are a couple in the range that will suit my purposes. Cheers Jason
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Thanks Barry, At least I can see now what it looks like. The photo on the Renzetti site is just way too small. Cheers Jason
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G'day Guys, Well the time has come to upgrade from a hand wrapper to a power setup. I want something good that will last for a long time. I think my two options are the Renzetti or the Custom Powerwrap. It looks to me like the CPR uses the little jiggers that actually put tension on the thread rather than on the spool like the Renzetti, which makes me lean towards the Renzetti. It's a bit hard
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G'day Guys, I was wondering if anyone could put me on to a supplier of solid glass rod blanks up to 200lb rating? I know that Batson do a selection up to 130lb, but I also need something a bit heavier. Any ideas? Cheers Jason
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G'day Ray, I build my cork grips on a mandrel and shape on a lathe. For what it's worth, I bought the cheapie GMC lathe (about $100) that is available in Australia. I wouldn't turn wood on it (too flimsy I reckon) but it is fine for cork and EVA. I also bought a 3 jaw chuck from Penn State Industries and I use this to hold my mandrel. The Penn State chuck is available with 2 different thre
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G'day Richard, I have done a few EVA grips now and have just used the good old Selleys Kwik Grip. Seems to work fine! Cheers Jason
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G'day Patrick, I have used a silver gel pen before but now prefer to use an old style nib and pen holder combined with model paint. Have a look at Mudhole's videos where they explain the equipment and process. Cheers Jason
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G'day Joel, I am just finishing a rod that I used Batson EVA on. The rod is about 12mm at the butt and the grip ID is 9mm, so about the same diference in diameters that you describe. Mine went on with no problem. I basically use the same procedure described on the Mudhole video but I tend to put my epoxy even further up the blank (toward the tip) than they describe. I slide on the EVA, sort of
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G'day David, I haven't used Rod Bond specifically but another epoxy glue. I just brushed it thinly over the whole cork grip, slid the X-Shrink on hit it with the heat gun. Worked fine and is still going strong. Cheers Jason
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G'day Matt, I believe that CTS will make any of their blanks in multiple pieces. I think it has to be a special order though which I guess might take a while. Check them out. Jason
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Grant I think CTS will make any of their blanks, even their heavy jigging blanks, as multui piece on special request. Might pay to check it out. Cheers Jason
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Billy, Thanks for the info. I'll let you know if I need some more cork. Lane, I hadn't thought of sanding with a block so thanks for that. I take it that pit paste is a form of filler that should be reasonably easy to sand. Am I right? Tom, I did use red coloured adhesive and I flocked what I thought was heaps. I half filled the can on the compressed air flocker and used the whole
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G'day Guys, I attempted to flock the foregrip for my standup rod last night. I'm not real happy with the result and want some input. I used 1.5" cork rings to form the grip. They aren't brilliant quality but I thought I would get away with it. I tried filling the worst of the pits with epoxy mixed with cork dust. This was only mildly successful as the epoxy is harder than the cork and
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Russel, The slick butt is going on the rod first, so it will be glued in place before the reel seat therefore no need to install it from the back end. Roger, Unfortunatley the blank has a bit of taper so reaming as you suggest would not give a very good fit. Anyway, I decided to try ream on the rod last night. Luckily I have 2 of these blanks so I can ream on one and try on the other. I
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Guys, thanks for all the input. I will try doing it the other way next time i.e. ream first and then glue to blank, then slip butt over and glue. The arbors won't be paper thin so this will probably work OK. For this rod I will either ream by using a strip of sandpaper on the blank or try Richards idea. I also rang my local tackle store and they may have a broken blank for me to turn into a reame
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Billy, I'm not sure what you mean. I'm guessing that you are talking about reaming the arbors before gluing them in the slick butt. I glued them in the butt first and now have to ream them. It probably would have been better to do it the other way around. Jason
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G'day Guys, I'm building a 10-15kg standup rod at the moment. I'm using a slick butt and decided to arbor it with graphite arbors. My largest reamer (the largest of the Batson reamers) falls a fair way short of being big enough to ream the arbors to fit. Does anyone make a reamer that is about 0.75" (19mm) at the rear and about 18mm at a point 300mm forward of this? If not, do you reck
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Thanks Guys, I appreciate the help. Mark, I'll shoot you an email. Cheers Jason
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G'day Guys, I'm after some more Izorline Spectra and there is no distributor in Australia. Anyone refer me to a good online supplier that will post to Aus? Please feel free to email me to save bandwidth here. Cheers Jason
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G'day Brian, Personally I wouldn't use the plain black nylon gimbles, I think they do look cheap. The Fuji graphite gimbals are a different matter and I think they look very neat and would be no heavier than the nylon. Your other suggestions seem fine to me. Cheers Jason
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Keith, I built myself a 3 piece 7 footer on a Batson ISP844-3. It is rated 8-17lb however is too long for you. The SB783-3 might suit you. It is 6'6", rated 10-17lb with a cast weight of 5/16-3/4oz. I am very happy with my rod. It casts well, is compact and appears to be good quality. Check out Fishsticks.us as a place to buy this blank or quite a few of the other distributors on th
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Sanford, SEED is one that comes to mind for me. I thought they may have been available in the US though. Cheers Jason
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Now THAT is a good idea. I doubt I would use one for blanks but for other stuff around the workshop it would be a difinite goer. Thanks Roger!
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Russell, Further to what Dan said, I think a big advantage of spinning reels for jigging where there is heavy braid and high drag settings involved is the fact that your hands never need to go anywhere near the line. As you would know taught braid is bloody dangerous and while the chances of cutting yourself badly while laying line on an overhead are probably small, the use of a spinning reel
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Guys, Thanks for your input. Special thanks to Adam for his further comments via email. Looks like I'll give the tri seat a go! Cheers Jason
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G'day Guys, Have any of you ever used an Alps Tri Seat on a spinning rod? I am just wondering how comfortable they are for use in a spinning setup. Cheers Jason
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G'day Guys, I just wanted to publicy thank Paul for his time on Sunday. He showed me how I could repair the ferrule on the rod I was fixing and supplied the scrap to do it with, along with teaching me a whole lot of other stuff and giving me the guided tour of his rod shop. It's amazing some of the little tips and tricks you can pick up and you think to yourself "Wow that's a good way
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Guys, Thanks for the input. Paul, Thankyou for your offer. I'll shoot you an email and try and tee something up. Regards Jason
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