Thank yall. THat is very interesting. I am sure i can pass a braid to FG mono knot thru an 8. I appreciate the feedback, and would love to hear from anyone else with a pro or con view.
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I am going to build a long casting, 13' "6-8 and bait" rod for a casting conventional reel. (like an abu 6500). I will have a mono top shot (30lb) or a shock leader (50 lb) on this set up (with braid underneath). I am eyeballing the microwave 18/8 MW18 set. I really am amazed at how microwaves help in a spinning set up. however, i have never used a ring size smaller than 10 on a sur
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jim jackson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have done quite a few of these 80w class builds, > and i really like the XHXNZG guides from ALPS, > with a zirconium insert. They have black and > silver. I would go with 25, 20, 16, 12s as > determined by static load testing. For the sand, i > do not use rollers, and i have not seen a > s
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I have done quite a few of these 80w class builds, and i really like the XHXNZG guides from ALPS, with a zirconium insert. They have black and silver. I would go with 25, 20, 16, 12s as determined by static load testing. For the sand, i do not use rollers, and i have not seen a situation where i've needed them.
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Path of least resistance here may be to just get a drill bit, widen it with masking tape until your wood spool slides onto it snugly, and do the transfer using drill. I do this all the time because I transfer all my Madeiras to 4 spools each for x wrapping.
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one other hint, as you wrap, when it's time to slide your fingers down the threads so you can wrap more, with your off hand, pin the already wrapped threads down onto the blank, and hold the uwrapped threads very lightly as you move your hand down the threads, then regrip those, reapply tension, unpin the threads with your off hand, continue wrapping. When you pinch those threads while sliding yo
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evidently, the cobalt blue is discontinued. It looks like it's between the Alps, Forecast, Aftco, and ATC blues.
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I am trying to match a "blue camo" avet MXL reel (google search and you will see many images) with a blue reel seat . The best I can find online is the Perfection Cobalt blue, but... it seems mudhole doesn't have these any more. Even though there is a picture, i can find it to put into my cart. I need 2... of the 16 size. I need a 22 or 24mm seat. It doesn't seem the Alps or ATC o
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Thank you to all responders. Everything was helpful. In the end, i ordered several brands online, and tested them out. I think there is probably a lot of lot and individual variation. But this is what i found (gold) Pentel Sunburst: slow drying, smeared fairly easily (may have dried if given longer than ~1hour) Pentel Slicci: thin line, slow discharge, but OK. Dried well. Uniball impact 1.0 m
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Bruce, after Tom's suggestion, i went to my bench and found (easily) plenty of spots of finish on the table top. I wrote on these and still it would not dry, even under the heat gun.
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Thank you for the responses. I have tried drying gently with heat gun, but that did not help. I am tending to think it is this run of gel pens I am using. I am going to get more brands and lots and try them out.. Too many people successfully do this for it to seem so impossible. The problem is not the appearance, it's that the ink will just rub right off as if it never dried. even after a day. I
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Thank you Tom. here is the link where i read about coating with poly. Seems legit! But i have to say, it does not appear I am even close to making it work! Jim
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I read how this is generally done: scuff with scotch brite pad, write with gelly roll, spray w/ a krylon matte finish, then apply wipe on polyurethane. My gel ink will NOT dry. Next day, you can just wipe it away with a paper towel, your finger, or anything else. it comes right off. Any ideas what I am doing wrong or how I can fix the problem? I do prefer writing with the gel pens over testor
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I have some of custom length from "the rod condom" that are excellent, about $1 / foot, and ship out quickly for free (if memory serves).
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I really like the flex coat pumps that fit right on top of the bottles, and turn to close and open. no more syringes for me. just count the pumps of each.
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One suggestion: get the pumps (like the ones in a liquid hand soap bottle) that fit in (and made for) the epoxy bottles! these work great, stay cleaner than syringes, and seem to be accurate. cost a few bucks. Mudhole. Your idea of using weight adjusted for density is a good one though. That will be most accurate for measuring, if you get the ratios right.
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There are 2 kinds of bubbles in epoxy. The little ones that look like dust, and larger single ones that form on the surface, which is what i think you are talking about. I found these bubbles form more often when the epoxy is warm and the rod blank/thread is cold. I suppose the epoxy heats the blank, air expands and bubbles to the surface. This happens to me sometime during the night on the rod d
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Bill, it's the other direction, the hood is too big. I suppose i could have taped the feet, but that's not a particularly attractive fix. I will go with my "work around". That should do OK. Just a little more effort on my part. Thanks for checking on your seats, Curt. Take care. Jim
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I need one! I am trying for a work-around now, due to these things being harder to find than anticipated! one problem trying a different one with same ID, is the reel feet might not fit well under the hood. That was a problem w/ a previous 28mm i had on this rod.
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it is 5.5" long, with an ID of 28mm. here is a pic:
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Does anyone have one of these to sell? I am looking for one... I will certainly listen to suggestions for a similar ID spin seat, for a casting surf rod. This seat fits my reels, even though it's a huge ID... Jim
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Thank you, gentlemen, for your input. It seems like it is worthwhile to move forward, which makes me feel better. We'll see how it does! Thanks again. Jim
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I had done a 300mm closed wrap with 8 thread colors on the butt of a 10' fiberglass (3-10oz rated) surf rod. After finishing and admiring the seemingly wonderful work, I noticed that SOMEHOW i had spent 3 days wrapping on an axis 30 degrees off center from the reel seat. What a screw up. How I did this, I do not know. I figured it was easier to remove the aluminum alps reel seat than rewrap. I tr
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So, forget trying to beat the "slapped together" mass produced rods. I just had the reel seat on a star aerial come loose on me on a trip. Disappointing. I do not generally build with top-top-top end components. The best value I have found, is the batson line. I think you would do very well with the RCTB60H blank (6', 40-80 Tuna 1pc, EXACTLY WHAT YOU REQUEST and what you are fishing for
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Hey Bill, It looks like your surf blank selection has gotten a bit smaller. Am I seeing this correctly? Down to two? Thanks, Jim
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This was my plan too. I regret it. Stripping these things down is no bueno. You can get new blanks for $20, or overruns for even cheaper. that's what i'd do if i could do it all over again. U are going to spend too much time stripping when you could be wrapping and learning. Jim J
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I occasionally get lazy, so I just rip the sticker off the seat, blank etc and tape into the notebook where I have my spacing and pattern notes etc. I also save receipts. Of course , excel spreadsheet would be the place enter all of this for the non-lazy. But if u save the tags and receipts u can always go back. Jim
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I had good success using a fine comb. Had one for mustaches that came w a trimmer. Worked well. I figured out that while wrapping a fade, if u make the band symmetrical then u don't have to change orientation of the comb when going different direction s after the turnaround at the top. So, I would wrap dark lite dark, or, dark lite lite dark. If u wrap dark dark lite, then when u come back d
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > To clarify, when I'm wrapping in the second color, > a max of four revs, I gently hold both threads > between thumb and finger, applying tension this > way until I get the second color under the main > color and stabilized. Then back on the tensioner > a few revs, then cut off the sec
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I notice the problem when I have two threads of different colors. But u may both be right. It may be on the last leg of the pass (wrapping a box out) where the problems occur. I should also put my thread spools in a Plano box. Right now I just cut off a length and use a big Madeira spool. Fred, I do tend to pinch thread tight ~12" from the blank and as the rod turns allow my hand to move
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