I would reply to each of you individually, but there are so many of you. Thanks to all who replied. Vance Corbett, I was thinking about bunny leeches! What colors work well for you?
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I will be fishing in Ontario, throwing big bugs for Northerns and Muskies as well as throwing poppers for Smallmouth. Can anyone recommend a blank as well as an intermediate line, 7-8 weight? Ontario = cold fresh water. I am considering an RX7+, Dan Craft FT, and St. Croix Legend Ultra. Thanks, Tony
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Thank you, all who responded and thank you, NERBS for providing that secret decoder ring.
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Not trying to be difficult, but is it true that *LAG (Alconite) and *SLG (SIC) have the exact same shape and profile?
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But are not the SIC and the Alconite both Concept guides available in single foot fly?
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Which ones are lower?
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Thank you to all who responded. People had great suggestions. I am a manufacturing person who enjoys repetition and predicatbility, so while I can appreciate the Zen of measuring, turning, measuring, turning, I will let you know how this replicator thing works out. The guys at the tool stores tell me this is an excellent application for turning cork grips but it does not make economic sense
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Regarding Fuji Concept single foot fly guides, are the frames the exact same shape for the Alconite (BLAG, CLAG) as they are for the SIC (TLSG)? Do they have the same "step" off of the blank?
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Thanks to all who responded. So, if I take a template and work in one inch increments, are we talking a lathe with a rest for the cutting tool? I have not used a lathe since middle school. If you fix the tool rest and know how far you are from the center rod that is holding the rings, how do you make sure you get down only to the correct distance? Thanks.
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Can anyone recommend a home made tool for easily shaping a "roll" of cork rings into a handle? For instance, once you know the desired dimensions, a template that you can hold against the turning rings to quickly and easily sand / cut / shear the "roll" into the desired shape? I was thinking a template cut into plywood, the edge at an angle, with grit glued on. Something l
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Nope, Bill W. was joking about the fact that you can't get enough of the stuff. It is that cool. Who wouldn't want a grip that looks like a chocolate chip cookie?
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Please feel free to elaborate on the RX8+. I have been thinking about trying a Rainshadow blank. Thanks.
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I use a 7 weight FT and I can tell you a couple of things not related to casting. I noticed that has already been discussed. First, it is beefy for a rod in its class. To the point where I use my Ross Big Game to balance it out. I have shown it to a number of professional guides and some rod builders (some people were both) and they all commented that it was a robust 7 weight. I throw 8 we
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I fly in to the Charlotte airport on Saturday morning at 9:20AM. Does anyone want to split a cab fare from the airport to the convention center?
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Thanks to all those who responded.
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Can anyone recommend some cloth fly rod bags to protect 3 and 4 pc. 6 and 7 weight rods, 9' long? These bags will be used to hold rod sections inside REC's aluminum canisters. Cabela's appears to have almost 100% 2 pc bags, I have always thought St. Croix bags were a little short, and a lot of manufacturers scale things for tiny trout rods. Thanks.
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And if I augment with a little sanding / scraping, would Scotchbrite be too course? Could I use 400 or 600 wet sanding paper without scraping color off the blank?
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Putter - What solvents are you comfortable with in this operation? Thanks, Tony
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I am committed to removing this decal and not adding more thread. The whole situation is complicated by the fact the decal was applied to the bare balnk and not a coat of epoxy as recommended by the decal maker. There is a coat of Flexcoat over the decal. Any other suggestions? (I promise to share the technique used and the results). Thanks!
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I have a rod built with a water slide decal from Decal Connection and it was put on crooked. I want to take off the decal and reapply Flex Coat. A person who makes rods suggested I dab the decal with acetone and then rub it off with my fingermail. I'd like to take off the decal, clear the area around where I apply a new one and then paint on Flex Coat to even out the finish. Can someone rec
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Torque wrench test! Good info. Thanks.
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I am recessing the hood that comes with an RSLS. You have to epoxy the hood onto the seat then slide the whole assembly up into the cork. Is this going to be sturdy enough? I know one rod builder who was convinced the hood should always be welded or crimped onto the seat. He seemed to think there was a chance that the hood could break loose and spin around while fighting a really big fish.
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Mark - I agonized over this very same thing as I love the REC butt but also wanted the sections to fit in my beloved Sage case. People are either 100% for trimming the butt section or not at all. There seems to be no in between. I decided to have the best of both worlds - I bought the removeable kit and trimmed off ONLY enough to account for the distance the insert takes up. The insert o
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Hey, Tom. Thank you for your thoughts. I went to a local rod crafters meeting tonight and the concensus was cutting 1/2" of the end of the butt section would not affect the feel or action. In fact, everyone was surprised I would not see it as necessary so that all four sections of the rod remained equal. Not that I have to do what others think, but as a new person, I am a lot more comfo
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I am having the same debate as Owen in regards to using a rod case that is one size up. We don't like using a longer case just because the fighting butt adds 1.5" or more to the butt section of the rod. I am using the Sage cases that hold rod and reel. I really like the REC fighting butts and I like the idea of using their insert hardware whether or not I will remove the butt. I do N
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Owen - I am having the EXACT SAME debate in regards to using a rod case that is one size up. I really like the REC fighting butts and I like the idea of using their insert hardware whether or not I will remove the butt. I don't like the idea of cutting off a section of the blank but that's what you'd have to so that all four pieces are the same length. The REC insert will take up 1/2&quo
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys. To me, Fuji is not China, which is really where I have my issue with "Asia". They actually sport fish in Japan and I found THE most incredible fishing store in down town Tokyo. The funniest moment was when my friend from Oregon saw a book on the Duschuettes River on the wall and realized the photo on the cover was exactly where he fished on regula
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Can you recommend any specific brands?
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Is this OK that I say saltwater and not salt water? Does anyone have experience with building and/or using rods with single foot guides in saltwater? I am looking for something not too high profile, preferrably made anywhere but Asia, available in sizes and strengths to be used on a 7 weight, and of course, something that will not lose its finish after repeated casts in...saltwater. I would
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Don Davis - Can you please explain your "shooting head" set up...again. I am relatively new to all this and all I know for sure is that I have weight forward line which means I have a section that is thicker for the first 30 ft. then it tapers to certain diameter and maintains that diameter for the rest of the lenght? You may have to start from end of the line and work your alon
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