Thanks to all who replied.
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Tom - If you use a non-threaded mandrel, what kind of collars do you use? (if any) Thanks, Tony
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Sorry if this is ooold news, but I did look at past discussions and could not find a definitive answer on what piece of hardware I can use on a threaded rod or other mandrel to keep a cork grip from sliding up or down when the spinning begins. I am assuming I will continue to use threaded rods until someone tells me about another fabulous product I cannot live without. I sometimes use a hex m
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Very interesting, Tom. Thank you.
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If someone decides to use a urethane product to seal in their cork handle, is there a reason so many people enjoy Perma Gloss? Is it is simple as the fact it is so familiar because it has been around as a rod finish? Or, are there some compelling reasons to use that product versus a spar varnish or other urethane you can find at Home Depot or Woodcraft? On that note, what are the UV protectin
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This is awesome news, Jimi. I have always enjoyed dealing with y'all but struggled with this vector "thang".
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Great information, guys. Thanks to all who responded.
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I have started using Tru-Oil to protect handles that I spend so much time making. I love the way it makes the cork look wet and look like wood and I love the idea of making the handle more durable. My only issue is that Tru-Oil has an amber tint and seems to make the handles a little darker. In some cases, I might like to keep a "brighter" and lighter look and was wondering if ther
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To everyone who replied - thanks very much! Great information. I am ready to try this but still curious about cutting the blocks to the desired length. The blocks I have seen are 12" and the handles I am making are 7" - 7 1/2". Thanks.
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Tom - I have seen a SurForm, but it looked more like a planer, having a handle. Is this the same cutting surface but in the form of a file? You use this thing while the cork is turning, right? What is the best to get the length you want - use a band saw? A hand saw with a miter box? Thanks, Tony
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How do you turn cork blocks? Do you start out with a traditional lathe tool that you would use when making a table leg? I would hope that once you get the block round, you can start using sandpaper. I am very curious because I have given up on finding 1 1/2" rings on a regular basis. My understanding is that when you round these babies out, you effectively have 1 1/2" diameter.
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The way it was taught to me....the spine / spline that is so pronounced that that when your are turning the blank, it wants to roll off that spine. Traditional method has you turning the blank until it rests solidly and squarely. I have recently been told by more than one person that this is "old school". I like the people that taught me and I understand the logic that it provides
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Thanks, Uncle Russ.
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Thanks for the replies guys. It is a 4 piece, 7 weight Lamiglas fly rod blank that was built for throwing sinking line, therefore a little "stiffer" in general. Should this make me feel any better or worse? I like the fact that some people don't spline at all and I have seen estimates that that building on the hard spline , on all four sections increases efficiency by 10%. So, the
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I build all my rods with guides on the hard spline. This weekend, I glued up at butt section and neglected to align the reel seat with the spline (so that reel hangs in line with the guides. If I build the other three sections with guides on the hard spline, will I have any performance issues? I have had people tell me the spline on butt section does not matter that much, or at all. I don't a
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Thank you, Tom.
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Thanks, Tom. I picked up some Austins as well and you can indeed see the difference in the graphite. How durable would a low modulus blank like this be? Should I worry about fishing it hard and use it for certain applications and not others?
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Todd - thank you! Sure does, doesn't it. I may have confused myself because I bought a 10 weight at the same time. 108", 9 weight, 4 pieces. Sorry to anyone who may be confused by my confusion.
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I have searched all over this board and in other places and cannot find information on an All Star fly rod blank BEF1089-4. It is glossy green and is very lightweight. My understanding is that this model is a 10 weight. Can anyone tell me anything about this blank - it's intended application? Best uses for it? Your opinion of its action (not taper) - slow, moderate, fast? Thanks, Tony
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Thanks to all who replied. I am using the same craft heat gun that Bill in WV describes. I use it as sparingly as possible and hold it far away so it ends up more like hot air and not extreme heat. As Bill pointed out, I had answered my own questions but was looking for confirmation. I do not why I decided to carry over so far. I thought I was doing the epoxy version of a Forhan wrap. I t
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I recently took a good look at a rod I built last Spring and fished all last Summer. I caught a great number of fish on it, which is a good thing. On some of the guides (H&H single foot) the epoxy has cracked at the end of the guide where it touches the bare blank. After searching previous posts on this board, I have some guesses as to why. 1. I can tell you that I probably did not gri
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I have taken measurements from a cork fly rod grip that I really like and it turns out the diameter of grip at the "low spots" are not the same...as they are with every other grip I have measured. The diameter of the grip at the low spot in the rear (nearest the seat) is 1/64" larger than the low spot in the front. Is there an ergonomic rule of thumb that the diameter should be
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Who else out there has used it as CP? Ken Preston turned me on to it, but I have been using a couple of other products after noticed it did alter the color slightly versus another "standard" CP that everyone knows and loves.
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Someone turned me on to thread available at quilting or sewing supply houses. I believe it is the Robison Anton mentioned in another post. HUGE number of colors to choose from. Works very well and if you want a true titanium thread to match guide frames, etc., there is no other.
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I am building fly rods in 7 and 8 weight and the largest strppers in 16 and 20 and am having of a time wrapping over them smoothly and easily. In some cases, I have taken them back to the grinder and made the "on ramp" flatter and futher up the guide foot. But...even when I get the thread up on the foot, it seems that it is near impossible to get the thread to lay next to the next wr
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As I mentioned in another post on a similar topic...loved the one spool of Fish Hawk metallic that I have ever touched.
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I just completed wrapping a rod with some Fish Hawk metallic that was given to me in High Point by the new owners of the Fish Hawk. (Wonderful people. Father and son team if I remember correctly. Thanks again, guys!). Basically, I found it very easy to work with, the wraps held nicely even after teasing to cut off the tag ends cleanly, and the sheen and color were beautiful. Tony
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Thanks, Spencer.
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Can someone please tell me who sells 1 1/2" rings in Brown Burl and other colored burl (that is not exotic)? Thanks, Tony
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Has anyone found some round files aka "rat tail" files that taper as much as say the Batson Dream Reamers or a blank with grit? Everything I am finding has the same diameter with only a slight taper toward the end. I'd like to find a file that starts tapering from the very beginning.
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