I just picked up and tried some of the Loctite Gel Epoxy (6 minute) and it works very well for this application, you just need to be prepared and work fast.
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Gary, I don't have a factory router table, the one that I build has a fixed fence. The two screws have take the place of the adjustable fence and set the distance of the blank (actually the bolt) from the bit. The insert is held from turning by friction. If the insert is loose I wrap a bit of masking tape on the bolt to hold it tight. Note that the insert us up against the one side of the
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Made a new mortising fixture...Put up some pics + a separate post.
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Billy, from your slurred typing one MIGHT think you got some shot glasses THIS year! Looking forward to you posting pics of whatever project you use that Blurple Abommone on.
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I built up a new reel seat mortising jig recently, based on some photos posted by another user, but with some improvements. The construction is slightly crude, however the alignments are dead nuts and it is adjustable. I will post one photo of the jig here, but there are a total of 12 on my photo page. And here is my first reel seat produced on the new jig:
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The number of dips depends on the grain of the wood being used. For instance, Koa, Bocote, Walnut, and other open-grained woods will require more coats to get the grain filled up whereas Maple will take less coats. My basic approach with open-grain wood is three coats followed by a full sanding almost back down to the wood. Then finish up with 2-3 more coats, then finish with Micro-Mesh down
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Thanks Ken.
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Thanks John.
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Well said Ken!
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Graphite blank sections also work for extending the butt on large diameter fly blanks (such as fiberglass) to bring the size down to fit smaller reel seat diameters.
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After using many different finishes, including CA, I settled on Tru-Oil. I use a dipping method and then polish with Micro-Mesh. I think the results speak for themselves:
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It looks to me like a tip section of a multi-piece Lami Honey fiberglass blank that may have gotten a bit too warm.
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I traded e-mails with Tom Morgan last week and he has just received his first shipment of his new fiberglass blanks. If you are familiar with Winston's Stalker series (designed by Tom Morgan when he owned Winston) you know that these were some of the best fiberglass fly rods ever created. These are reported to be better than those. They are designed by Morgan and rolled by Kerry Burkheimer
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Yep, Utmost...I have a couple of blanks from them with similar nomenclature.
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I purchased 2 of the 7' 4wt blanks a couple of months ago. They are slower than graphite, but faster than most glass blanks. I haven't CCS'd them yet, but I will try to do that tonight when I get home from work. The finish is beautiful and the blanks are very light. They will make very nice fishing fly rods. BTW, the ones I got are his original Olive green blanks, not the "lemon-drop&
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Ditto what Tom said. I apply it very wet and then after it has soaked in, wick away the excess and allow it to dry. As far as drying time, just follow the directions on the bottle.
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Herb, I don't build for saltwater (yet!), so I have not needed to address the issue of discoloration. I doubt that they are as light as the recoils... I'm sure Mike or Susan will be able to answer your questions though. Their contact number is 360-666-9928.
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I use two brands: Snake Brand - In my opinion these are the best snake guides available today. The bottom of the guide foot is radiused to match the curvature of the blank and the feet are perfectly ground so no additional prep is needed. The downside is the cost... PacBay Light Wire snakes (XSNLG) - These are the lightest traditional snake guides available (as far as I know). Very thin
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I agree with Charles, it appears to be an issue with IE7 browser, as it does not work for me here at work. Most sites on the internet no longer support this browser (which makes me wonder what the wonderful guys in the IT department here at work are thinking!!!), so if you can upgrade do so. Better yet, switch to Google Chrome or Firefox browser.
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The closest I know of would be Pearsall's in Cardiff, Wales, but as far as I know they only supply silk thread and floss.
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I like the makeover Jon. Looking forward to the final "fit & finish".
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Tom, Is it acceptable for our rod photos to include our business logo/name of business if that is part of a component included in the photo (i.e., logo on rod tube, etc.)? Thanks,
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The AFFTA did produce a standard for fly reel feet a few years ago. I'm not sure if all manufacturers are using it, but they seem to be pretty close. Here is a link to the SPEC:
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Mark Steffen at Steffen Brothers has what you need: Steffen Brothers Fly Rods 11475 Homestead Rd. Flagstaff, AZ, 86004 (928)522-0617 steffenbrothersflyrods.com
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > All I can tell you is that > you're highly unlikely to find your graphite rods > losing any power or stiffness over many, many > seasons of hard use. And that is exactly the information I was looking for. Thanks again!
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Thanks for your input. Tom, I did some searching prior to the post, but the search terms "rod fatigue", "fatigue", and others similar returned very little results. I must re-think my queries. Your mention of fiberglass got me thinking. I have a 25 year old 3wt Winston Stalker that I have used very consistently. I recently re-built it and while I had it stripped do
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I had an interesting discussion with a friend of mine the other day and thought I would put the question that arose to the members of the board. My friend is a striper fisherman (fly rods, San Francisco Bay) and also a tennis professional. He states that his composite tennis rackets have a definite life to them. He says after some duration of use, the racket becomes "dead", at whic
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No problem there, Bill, my dumpster diving started at an early age! LOL.
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Thanks much gentlemen! I will give these sources a try.
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Thanks Tom.
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