Make sure you read the Announcement on posting photos: Also, you must select a category OTHER than Member Galleries. The system will automatically copy the file to your member gallery as well as the category you select. If you do not do this you will get an error message that says something about thumbnails. Hope that helps,
Forum: rodboard

Gentlemen, Thank you all for sharing your thoughts. I have taken a couple of photos so you can take a look (The second pic is more of a close-up). As I look closer myself, I'm thinking that perhaps the damage does not penetrate any deeper than the finish. What do you think? As far as how the repair is done, aesthetics are secondary, but not unimportant to me. If a suitable re
Forum: rodboard

I have a much-loved old Winston fiberglass fly rod that, over the years, has gotten a couple of moderate nicks in the blank just above the grip (in the inscription section). I would say that the nicks barely pentrate into the blank itself, not just the rod finish. I searched the archives and found several posts on the subject of repairing nicks, but have not found any that dealt with fiberglas
Forum: rodboard

I have used the method shown in Video #2 in the first link that Rich provided above and was extremely happy with the results. The only thing I did differently is that after I completed the steps in the video, I polished the seat using progressively finer wet/dry sandpaper down to 2000 grit, and then polished it with the back of the sandpaper. The finished product was not only highly polis
Forum: rodboard

Thank you all for your valuable input, both on and off the board. My understanding of the process is much more complete!
Forum: rodboard

Actually, Tom, it was these articles that sparked the question in the first place. Basically I originally thought that static guide placement for fly rods was always accomplished with the guides down, but I think now that guides up might be a better approach, providing more consistent results.
Forum: rodboard

All of the tutorials that I have seen on the static guide placement procedure for casting rods (and other "reel on top" rods) invariably has the process being done with the guides UP, which, of course, makes perfect sense. The exact opposite is true of the photos I have seen of fly rods being set up (including in Tom's book), in that the guides are facing downward. All of the times th
Forum: rodboard

I concur with Chuck and Steve. If you are turning standard, round reel seats, use the CA finish with boiled linseed oil (BLO) as a curing agent. The seats I have finished this way are absolutely impervious to water/weather. You want to use the medium viscosity, gap-filling CA glue, and you can purchase large bottles of it at most hobby stores (model airplanes, etc.). Pen turners use this
Forum: rodboard

I got a couple of bags at the local Orthodontist. The call them "elastics" and they are used for keeping dental braces tight. I offered to pay for them but they didn't really have pricing so they just let me have them. They work pretty well.
Forum: rodboard

For a rod in that price range, you might look at the Tiger Eye blanks made by Sevier Mfg., and sold by several of the sponsors on the left (Black Dog and Schneider's to name two). They are nice blanks and very reasonable in price. Aside to Eric, how did your trip go?
Forum: rodboard

Very nice, Dan!
Forum: rodboard

That is the only word that describes my feelings after using Threadmaster for the first time. I'm not going to say what epoxy I was using, but I have been having problems with leveling on the signature block area. Multiple times the finish just would not level, but would end up lumpy, whether it was a lack of adhesion to the decals, or what, I don't know. I spent a lot of time sanding it ba
Forum: rodboard

Thanks, Andy!
Forum: rodboard

I used to have the same problem, especially if I was attempting to drill vertically on my drill press. My drill press allows the table to pivot, so now I adjust the table so it is parallel to the drill bit, and clamp the wood tightly onto the table with a big soft jawed clamp, making sure it is perfectly parallel using a square. I use a VERY sharp brad point bit for positive cutting and it na
Forum: rodboard

Bob Venneri makes a router bit just for this purpose, a modified 5/8" moritising bit (or half bull nose). He also makes a special jig for using it to make reel seet inserts. I purchased this bit and I am currently working on my own jig to do this. I know others on the board make the mortise manually, either by carefully carving or sanding the groove, but I've not done it that way.
Forum: rodboard

Does anyone know what the ETA is for this product at Andy's suppliers? The more cork dust I mix the antsier I get... ;-) Thanks, Walt
Forum: rodboard

Marty, I just wanted to thank you for "wasting" a bunch of my time. Your question made me realize I didn't know much about the Battle of Hastings, so I looked it up on the 'net. One thing (read: hour) led to another, and well, let's just say I learned a lot! LOL Walt
Forum: rodboard

3/4" is pretty tight dimensionally for turning into a reel seat. It can be done, but everything needs to be perfect. You'll need to drill the center bore perfectly, and you won't have much room to turn down once you get the blank rounded. Personally, I look for 7/8" blanks and if I'm cutting my own I make them 1". Buzz
Forum: rodboard

Thanks for the responses, gentlemen. Yes, Eric, we are neighbors. I was down in your neck o' the woods last weekend for a private St. Patrick's Day party at which my brother's Irish band was performing. We also may have an NCFFB connection. I really like your idea of using the large single foot wire guides for stripping guides on the lighter weight stream rods. This seems like a perfect
Forum: rodboard

I have technically been a member of this board for over two years, but never introduced myself and haven't made much input. However, I have gained an extraordinary amount of knowledge from all of the great people on this forum, and am ready to bring something back to the table, so to speak. I've been building rods off and on for the last 20 years, and am slowly working into making it a part
Forum: rodboard

Once you get the grip cleaned (scrubbing with dishwashing liquid), try using Trondak U-40's Cork Seal (there's a link to the Trondak site on the left column). I love this stuff. It does change the feel of the cork slightly, but NOT negatively. It still has the same "traction" in your hand. I usually sand my grips with 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper before I apply it. BTW, I have no
Forum: rodboard