It is MOSTLY a cosmetic choice. There is a slight difference in effective weight when you take into account two wraps + epoxy per guide (with the snake guide). This extra weight, no matter how slight, WILL dampen the blank a bit. Whether it is enough to affect the way your blank casts depends on the blank. If it is a very fast blank you won't notice it much, and in fact you might like the sli
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William, there are two separate forums, one for discussion, one for photos. They are completely separate in the sense that you need to register separately for each forum. In other words, you need to register separately for the photo board before you can post photos, and you cannot post any photos to this forum.
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For anyone else who would like the link, here it is, by Rick Heil:
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REC makes a double-ring slide band seat:
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So sorry to hear of Bill's loss. I'll be holding the family in my prayers.
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Very disappointing...
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Where are you getting this information? Their website is up and there are not notes or anything related to this...
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If it were me (and it has been), I would seriously consider using a nicer reel seat on that nicer blank. My recommendation would be the Struble D-27 or U-27. The styling is elegant, the insert is light. The components are nickel-silver, which is slightly heavier, but much more durable, than aluminum.
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I purchased a bundle of blanks from him a couple of months ago. The communication is kinda slow, but I got the blanks really fast.
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Another vote for keeping it in the fridge. My bottle is ~18months old and still nice an thin. I did put a Testor's cap on rather then the original.
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I use a 3/4" pen turning barrel trimmer available from Penn State Industries, mounted on a short piece of 1/4" rod, and then adjust the hole size with a dremel to match the reel seat size:
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Well, I tend to be a perfectionist, so I would start over. I'm not sure how it would look with those gaps in there. Other than tha diameter issue, I think you did a great job and I really like the two-tone look!
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This is the bit I use (Grizzly 1215). It isn't as perfect as the modified bit, but it is really close!
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The best available for a mortise is Bob Venneri's "modified" bit: The closest non-modified that I have found (and the one I use) is the Grizzly 1215:
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I use 1/4-20 threaded rod with 2 fender washers and 2 wingnuts. Low tech, but easy to use and cheap!
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The working time with 5-minute epoxy is so short you will probably need to do the assembly in short sections and then assemble the sections as a separate operation. I use RodDancer Ultimate Gel 15 minute and can get an entire fly grip, with multiple trim rings, done before the epoxy sets. The important thing when using epoxy on cork is to apply the epoxy to both sides of the ring and then S
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Done.
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Earl, You are probably correct since the rod is a Hardy. I will check with them... Thanks,
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Bob, it would appear they are chrome over brass. I need qty2 Thanks for checking,
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Great source, Bill, and again, thank you. The only thing about those guides is that they are stainless steel. I'm not positive what these ones are made of but I'm pretty sure it isn't stainless.
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Thanks, Bill, for the quick response. The only thing about the guides on this rod is how small they are...they are much smaller than a size 8 boat guide. Any thoughts on who might carry these, as I don't know if they are even made this small any longer.
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I am trying to locate a source for a couple of small wireframe guides on a bamboo fly rod that has been brought to my shop for repair. The rod is a Hardy "Neo-Cane", built in the mid to late 1960's. The outside diameter of th ring is ~6mm or 7/32, so it is very small. I would appreciate help identifying the guide and locating a source for a couple. Here is a pic of one of the gu
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Gabriele, I used my router to inlet the table where the router mounts...this gives me plenty of throw for adjustment of the depth. That being said, yes, you can extend your router bit some, although the collets needs enough of a bite on the bit to hold it tight, so not TOO far.
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I made up my own router table/jig setup using a trim router I picked up from Harbor Freight. The table is made out of MDF and set up stationary, and the jig is an adjustable sled that carries a 3/8 rod to mount the insert on. Here are a few pics, but you can review all of them in my gallery: The table setup The sled A reel seat I mortised on the setup Hope that gives you s
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If her hands are small, don't overlook making the grip a bit slimmer. This also will increase her comfort and control in casting.
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My personal choice on that short and light of a rod would be a single stripping guid, #10, then a single size 3 snake, then size 1 or smaller snakes out to the tip. you don't need 2 stripper guides on that short of a rod, nor that large...just adds unnecessary weight...
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Mudhole:
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Like others, I use a threaded rod, fender washers and wingnuts. Also like others, I use gel epoxy. I have used Titebond III in the past but found when I was using decorative rings, particularly plastic, that the epoxy just holds better. Even when I scuffed the surface of the plastic material the wood glue doesn't hold as well. Apply, scrape as much off as possible, press and twist the rin
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Just make sure not to use too much tension on the silk thread...
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Kerry Burkheimer learned the trade from the legendary Russ Peak. To give you and idea of how well-regarded he is, Tom Morgan, former owner of Winston Rods and designer of the fabulous "Stalker" fiberglass line of rods, chose Burkheimer to roll his brand new personal line of fiberglass rods and blanks. I think if you call up Burkheimer you will get all of the information you need.
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