Does anyone have a clue what is used for the razor thin, dark (black) trim rings on this grip?
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REC ABS or NBS.
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You might consider the FT Light blank as an option. They are 6pc blanks, but very light and similar in action to the FT. They are about 10% less than the FT. Also, the REC NBS might be a good alternative. I know a source for that reel seat that runs $34 plus the cost of the insert. Shoot me an e-mail.
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Batson has what you are looking for: You can purchase through any number of the sponsors on the left, Utmost Enterprises being one of them.
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I concur with John: wire loops for the clean, classic look and light weight. Even if they are not technically lighter than some of the lightweight ceramic guides (as has been discussed frequently on this forum), they SEEM lighter to my clients.
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I just use solid fiberglass rod from McMaster-Carr and turn it down on my lathe to match the taper:
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I use a dipping process on my reel seats using Tru-Oil and Micro Mesh. It works very well:
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Although an error pops up when posting, the message still gets posted on the board. If you double check the thread to verify that your post shows up it will save you (and us) from the frustration of duplicate posts!
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Glad they worked for you Ken. Luckily they don't cost much!
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Thanks for the input!
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Can anyone tell me whether the Olympic Green finish on these blanks is gloss, flat, or something in between? Thanks in advance,
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I'm pretty sure the foot for that reel meets the AAFTA dimensions released some years ago (see link below). I just finished a build using a Struble D27 Cap & Ring and had no issues with the BBSI, but I made my own insert.
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That brand seems a bit heavy. The ones I use are GUM brand and are like heavy blue monofilament: They are available directly from most drug stores next to the dental floss:
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I doubt that there is any "standard" here. I would think that you would want the length to be somewhat proportional to the length of the rod (longer rod, longer fore-grip), since the idea is to develop leverage to swing the rod. As Ken suggests, since you are building them for yourself (at least that is how it seems), just take the blanks in hand and give them a swing in the most natu
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Both. We should differentiate between burnishing and packing though. Burnishing "polishes" the individual threads into one continuous layer of smooth thread, while packing aligns the threads making for a stronger, more compact wrap. I don't pack as I go along, as I find that it just makes the wrap uneven. I make sure that the thread is pulled at a slight angle across the wrap
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I second the Tru-Oil. I use a dipping method followed by polishing with Micro-Mesh:
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I like Struble and REC skeleton seats. Some of the newer Struble models are out-of-this-world gorgeous. I really like the D-27/U-27 slide ring models for 2 & 3 weights. Angler's Workshop on the left carries them and the RECs. If they don't have them on the website, give them a ring.
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I'd be up for that!
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Bob, You can usually use a nice new single-edged razor blade and just slice the offending fluff off. Then either leave the finish with the minor "facets" or put on another coat of expoxy. For final prep before giving the rod to a client, I use paste wax and wax down the rod, just like your car. Puts on a nice shine and protects everything to boot.
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I had this exact same problem using Cason color preserver on Madeira thread. I used 3 well-cured coats and still got fisheyes. I believe there may be an incompatibility between these two products. I have used Cason's with Gudebrod and PacBay with excellent results, but not Madeira. For Madeira I have had great results with Chromaseal (2 coats) and I ALWAYS us it on this thread.
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Hi Tim, If you look on the left column of this website under Sponsors, the second link down, called "Common Cents System" will take you to the CCS web site. You will find all of the information there.
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Steve Bro - I use dental elastics exclusively and they work very well. The ones I use come from a dental supply that is not a sponsor, so I won't mention their name (e-mail me for the company name). They are non-latex, non-silicon, and they come in varoius sizes and "pull weights". Since I build primarily fly rods, I use 1/8" heavy bands, just doubling them over on the small t
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I changed my e-mail address a few weeks ago (although a bit late), so it may have been the old one you were attempting to use. The e-mail address currently in my profile should work.
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Is this the one you are looking for Don?
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I haven't tried Crafty's trimmer, but I've been tempted. If I made more rods I might feel like it was a worthwhile investment. I normally just mark the inlet location by hand and use my dremel tool to carefully make the inlet. It works fine, but you have to be very careful when you get to the outer edge because it can remove a lot of material quickly. Someone on another forum suggeste
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Wow, Ray, glad to hear you are OK! Thanks for the reminder, and I'm glad it didn't come at great cost.
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Great news Tom. Don, you are in my thoughts and prayers. Keep that focus!
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This is a known issue with the recoil guides, more prominent in the snake guides that the single-foot. I built only one rod using them. The client returned it complaining of the noise and I replaced all the guides, no charge. It's not worth my time to use them, no matter how great they perform, if the clients don't like the squeaking.
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I build fly rods almost exclusively and include rods with every build. It is itemized in the invoice and the buyer knows up front about the cost. I have had several customers choose not to receive one.
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Thanks Tom, I appreciate the explanation.
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