Unsure why one would need to burnish so hard and fast that the plastic melts... I use the plastic burnishing tool as well and have never come close to generating that much heat. Perhaps my methodology is sub-par? ;-)
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I belive the tip-over-butt probably has the advantage for mechanical integrity. Yes, they are reinforced. The design calls for extra material to be added to both the male & female section of the ferrule area for strength. That being said, spigot ferrules rarely fail when done properly.
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Light thread on a dark blank (or vice-versa) can be a challenge. Usually the issue is with packing and burnishing. I am going to assume you are fairly new to rod building (please forgive me if this assumption is incorrect)... Packing the thread meticulously is a good idea all the time. You can do it as you go, or pack once after the wrap is complete. It is not enough just to have the t
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Done properly, the spigot ferrule will not stiffen the blank any more than a tip over butt design will. The spigot ferrule design allows for making a one-piece blank into multi-piece without engineering the ferrules into the original design. Tip over butt blanks are engineered and built in separate sections. I prefer spigot ferrules on my fiberglass fly rods.
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Yeah, but you can't lick the Mineral Spirits off your fingers...
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Just coat the outside (male end) of the extension and then rotate it as you push it in. This will spread the epoxy evenly. I have never "prepped" the inside of the rod blank and never had a separation.
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I agree with Phil on the length. You want the insert to perfectly match the taper of the blank and fit snugly. Use a gray scotch-brite pad to create a water-break-free surface on the extension piece, and use a good structural gel epoxy (at least 15 min. cure time).
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I guess I would need to understand what a "suitable" reel seat looks like. The 4 suppliers you listed have such a wide array of configurations that I'm not sure I understand why none of them met the criteria you listed. I think you would be good to go with an aluminum seat with a nickel-silver finish color. I have used a LOT of the REC ABS reel seats for exactly the same type of
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Snake guides would be easier to work with for your first build. Having two feet locked down, either by small rubber bands or tape, makes one less thing to worry about. Single foot guides can move around if not perfectly prepped.
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Best advice: It is a great way to (possibly) pay for your hobby, but don't expect to get rich...
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Adam, unhide your e-mail address and I will send you some info...
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LOL. I suppose the Icy-Hot provides relief to those aching hands when the fishing is hot!
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My thread finish work (both epoxy and varnish) has gotten really good over the last several years, thanks to the great folks on this board who share their knowledge willingly and selflessly. Special thanks go to Tom K. whose fantastic magazine and forum provide us with the medium to improve both our basic skills and provide us with advance techniques and seeds of ideas to continually improve our
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I use U-40 as well, but modify the application procedure a bit. The instructions indicate that a second coat has no effect, but I find that it does. I sand the grip down to 320 wet/dry and then apply a generous coat of Cork Sealer. I sand again with 320 and apply a second coat, and then, when dry, do another VERY light sanding with 320 to create a bit of "nap". This seals the
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Chuck Mills Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I just keep mine under a pile of cork dust and > sandpaper scraps. > LOL, Chuck, that is where I keep MOST of my tools!
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Rick, Thanks for the extended description. I will use this approach the next time I get ready to re-finish a blank and report back on how it all worked out!
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I have templates for some, use a measuring tape for those I build less often. As far as MARKING the blank goes, I don't. Since I use small dental bands to hold the guides in place, I put the bands where I want the guides and then put the guides into the bands. One less thing to have to clean off of the blank...
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Good luck! Post some photos when you get it finished.
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Hi Rick, Thanks for the info on using an airbrush. I have thought about it, but was concerned about clean-up given the fast curing time of Permagloss. Can you give me a rundown of the cleaning process for your airbrush when using Permagloss? Thanks,
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This is not a question, but a note on a decent tinting agent I found for Permagloss. Most of the tinting agents I have used in the past have made Permagloss at least partly opaque, but I found one that leaves it very clear, although there aren't a lot of color choices. The product is a hobby paint called Mr. Color by Japanese company Mr. Hobby and is available at hobby stores and websites. T
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Ken, I have some Koa wood and would be happy to send you a piece. Send me an e-mail.
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Yes, but are they making any BLANKS available using the new resin?
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Back to the old digs, eh? Hope everythings going well Pappy.
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You might check in with Dennis Papike (Cal-West Custom Rods). He is in the Redding Area.
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I would contact Mark Steffen at Steffen Brothers Fly Rods. He does not list a 5/6 Wt. that short (8ft is shortest), but he will make one for you at no extra charge.
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I like the REC & Struble a lot, especially the Struble D27. There is no comparison in fit, finish, and styling. There is a fellow who makes nice standard Cap & Ring seats and sells them on the well-known @#$%& site. Do a search there on "NS Cap & Ring". I have used quite a few of these and like them a lot for the economy.
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E-mail sent
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LOL. I guess I did make it a little "complicated"!
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I use an embossing stylus to make my alignment dots. Here are the steps I take: 1. I apply the first thin coat of epoxy and allow it to cure, making a smooth base for the dot. 2. Assemble the rod making sure it is aligned, then place it on rod supports, guide side down. 3. Pour some of the ink or paint onto a paper plate or some foil. 4. Press the ball of the stylus into the pudd
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There is a waiting list for some models, but others he has on hand. I would contact Tom and ask what he has available. There is an e-mail link on his page and he will reply personally.
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