Dragon silouette in blue foam getting ready for inlay
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This is looking from the entrance to the shop from the finished area of the basement. Just for Myles - the kangaroo sign! Drill press / band saw and vertical (band) sander on the roll-around with volatile stuff below. The roll around that's out of sight has all the hypalon/wood turning squares below. Each roll-around has a tractable power cord so they can be rolled into the center of the shop for
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So this is the "other side". Guies in plastic boxes above the wrapper, open storage and "knee room" below this wrapper, TV (that hardly ever gets used). Down the far end are roll-around work areas, band saw, drill press, vise, wood lathe, home done metal lathe & spine finder, rod blanks stored overhead & in racks out of line of sight farther off
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Left and back cabinets & tops installed. Guides in plastic cases on left side, threads plastic cases on right corner.
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Left side completed. New flouro overheads, task lights on bench ends & center, grinder & sharpener on back bench, blank cut-off chop saw along side grinder. New large drawers installed above standard cabinets.
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Re-post of shop rebuild
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Left side and back corner cabinets set in place
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Second photo of the 4 rod drying set up, elevated bench top awaiting drawer installation
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PacBay rod lathe on snap-loc flooring for counter top. 4 rod dryer wall mounted above
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This is the model professional barbers use. Not inexpensive but very good. Parker SR1 . Uses their own single edge blades or break a double edge in half.
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Robert 1/2 pint of "goo" would do between 200 - 300 guide wraps - if it were the depth of varnish/lumiseal etc. figure around half as many to the depth of what we are most accustomed to seeing for an epoxy finish,. What I remain interested in is an LED light source. Maintenance = LED 'bulbs' last about 10,000 hours and draw way less 'juice' and there is no residual heat.
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Tom hit it right. The cost is still prohibitive. Lights can be had for under $30 / fabricating a stand (to block errant UV from skin & eyes) pushes the cost to $80.00. Then the cost of the adhesive / encapsulant. One product from one provider is $350.00 / half pint. I have not given up the search for a "goo" that will work and remain within a reasonable price point = now som
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Buzz - I think this is what you're dealing with - and you're correct that it is basically kevlar : another link:
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Steve - I never had that problem with the bearings or the drive shaft . So I can't be of any help to you in that regard. However, I was so annoyed by the imprecise nature of the support stand, pulley wobble etc that I purchased an ALPS chuck which comes with in integral set of drive pulleys and multiple drying pulleys. I've never looked back or regretted that decision. Probably the best $1
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If you are unsure if your interest will be piqued and you will want to continue I would recommend you consider looking at buying separate parts of wrappers that can later be upgraded to power wrappers - should you find this as addictive as many others. Check Angler's Workshop (to the left) as they sell "piece parts" that can be added to as you feel budget allows. Others such as PacBa
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Don't overlook bamboo blanks as an option. Most are deep parabolic (bend down to the grip) are light and have been 'go to' rods for a very long time when fishing for trout. Check Angler's Roost. He';s got lots of choices from full kits to individual blanks - oh and he also has some very light fiberglass kits down to one / two weight rods at VERY affordable pricing. Here's one example:
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I use hot melt glue that is used to attach arrow heads. The melting point is a little higher & will resist twisting in hot, sunny conditions EXCEPT on heavy duty rods that are going to be 1/ in the sun in rod holders (like heavy trolling rods for tuna and other pelagics) and rods where there is a probability that the line will run in/out through the tip top at speed many times. Those get ep
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One way that you can accomplish this (in addition to the simple approach of winding on a regular guide) is to find a 3 footed (casting guide) of the size you want' carefully bending the 3-rd (single foot) to conform to the diameter of the rod and wrapping that on as the tip top. This will give you three points of contact with the blank. Others who have posted here are also correct that the s
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Any speed drying motor will do. Mine all turn at 18rpm and they work fine. However, I apply the finish at a much higher rate of speed - probably close to 100rpm (just below the speed that the epoxy doesn't get slung off the rod). I used to apply by hand turning the rod, which also works ok - but I found I get much crisper, straighter end points and lower build up of epoxy at a higher rate of s
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As above - I prefer the "one thread at a time" look. Takes a bit longer but the end result is a tighter looking pattern
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Found one
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Chad If you are intending to do "fancy wraps" - a good thread carriage will help if you will do one thread at a time. If you are thinking of doing multiple threads at the same time you will probably find that you will be better able to control the thread by running it through your fingers - especially if you are thinking 3 or more simultaneously. Personally I prefer the one-thread
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David Orr - That is one really nice thread carriage! Well done - you might consider ONE thing. Spreading the distance between the two outside posts to accommodate larger (4oz) spools. If you ever decide to start selling these I'd be interested for sure
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As above - What is it that you dislike about the AmTac thread carriage? There are 2 versions. The newer version has one horizontal bar that will accommodate 2 regular size spools of thread. The older "original" version has 4 vertical posts and came with a nylon spacer for lager (4oz) thread spools. If you wish to make your own you certainly can and it would probably be much stu
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Absolutely contact Billy. The group meetings he coordinates are FILLED with great ideas from a variety of builders.
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Bamboo is just like any other rod. Flex it & place the guides as you would on a fiberglas/graphite rod. Wrap the guides as you would on any rod. Hot melt / epoxy isn't going to hold up when the rod is flexed. If you want to go "conventional" on bamboo use OO or OOO silk thread. YLI silk is widely available. PS - One reason that you will see more guides on a bamboo rod is be
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I use disposable "acid brushes". Cheap, use once and toss out. Only thing you need to do is tug on the bristles before using to make sure none pop out when applying finish. They're 1/4" wide so easy to use on butt wraps and can be trimmed to thinner widths for guide wraps.
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I think you ought to consider larger diameter for inshore / off shore rods.
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I don't think it's possible to find a better 'task specific' printer at the PEARLabel price point - and the service can not be beat. If you run into a problem or have a question Larry will answer it for you FAST including how to import graphics. If there is a drawback it is that the printer only does one color - no multicolor labels
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I think this is the way you should go about this repair. Understand that this is ONE example. You will need to measure the outside diameters of the wooden butt section. In effect you will be replacing both parts. Another approach could be to remove both the reel seat AND the ferrule and join the two remaining parts under a new reel seat - which would mean a one piece rod. The only
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