I don't mean to open a can of worms here, but I'm considering switching finishes and would like to know which one you think performs better. I currently use Flexcoat high build, but want to try the aftcote. I'd like to hear from builders that have used both Aftcote and Flexcoat, and which one they like better. Thanks in advance.
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Scott is truely in a league of his own with this whole marble thing. I really enjoy looking at his work.
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One of Jesse's favorite sayings is........Oh! I can't say his favorite saying here!.......his second favorite saying is "only another rod builder is going to notice that"!!
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John, I have one of your Renzetti's and I love it! One thing I've had to do recently is replace the o-rings on the uprights. I've been using the Lathe for about 11/2 years now, built about 40 or so rods and noticed the o-rings were flattening out, and starting to come apart. I work in the hydraulic field and know quite a bit about them. I would suggest a higher durometer (harder) rated o-ring
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Robert, couldn't get your site to open up yesterday or today......is anyone else having a problem?
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If you just want a ramp for your thread, why not just make a ramp "with" your thread? Then apply finish and everything will blend in nicely.
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Bruce, I use the same pad you're talking about. I've had only good results with it.
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Bill, Sorry to hear about your reaction. I found this link to be very informative....maybe it will help you pinpoint the culprit.
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Brian, I just finished one of these about a month ago. I no longer have the rod but I think I ended up with about seven guides plus the tip. I think the spacing was something like 5, 6, 7, 9, 11, 13, and 15 inches from the tip. The stripper guide was a 40, and then 30, 25, 20, 16, 16, 16 and a 16 tip. Not my normal guide size selection but that's what the customer wanted. Hope this helps some
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Try a little heat as the rod is turning in the drier. Should smooth it right out. Multiple light coats are better than one or two thick coats.
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Scott, As far as I know you can't plate the reel seat while on the rod. Plus the fact that it would cost more than a bunch of new seats if it could be done. I've done several rebuilds on these old fiberglass rods, and it's easier to replace the seat. Several of the sponsors carry what you need. The rod will look great with the seat replaced.
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Richard, I use flex coat high build,,,,,,,light coats (usually three or four).
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Why not just paint it with matte finish paint?
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Bill, I know that some people would not do this to their rods for various reasons. I do it to all boat rods, and even finished the whole blank on two 12' surf rods. I like the looks and feel of one continous coating running the length of the blank. I'm sure it doesn't provide any added strength and wouldn't do it on a rod where weight is an issue. I've seen rods finished this way that are man
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Mike, I like to keep things simple on the butt wraps so I lay out my centers at one inch. Just to mix it up a bit, sometimes I'll skip every other mark for a more elongated wrap like Tom mentioned. It's really what looks good to you so go ahead and experiment.
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Fred, I did the final wipe with a dry microfiber cloth......no solvent. I find that sometimes the brush won't get all of the dust off (static). It's possible I had something on the cloth. What I don't understand is that when this happens, I wipe the finish off and leave a fine epoxy residue.....mix another batch of finish and immediately apply it, with great results. Go figure!
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Hank, I was putting the final coat of finish on a stand-up rod last night, and when I got about a third of the way up the rod I noticed several fish eyes developing. I'm sure this was "operator induced failure" on my part, somewhere between the time I scotchbrited the finish, and did the final wipe down. I just wiped the epoxy off leaving a thin film of epoxy residue on the whole bla
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Thanks Billy, I love the "J" metallics too, but you can break it just looking at it the wrong way. I guess I'll do a little breaking-strength test for myself.
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I just received mine yesterday........looks real nice. Can it be used for guide wraps, or is it not strong enough?
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Here's another explanation taken from the web. Both Carbon Fiber and Charcoal belong to carbon material group. Both have crystal structure of graphite structure but are quite different in regularity and way of line up from each other. In case of Carbon Fiber, carbon atoms line up regularly and orderly, form mesh structure with layers piling up and entwining each other, whereas in case of Charc
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This is what I found on Helicone.....hope it helps. In the consumer market, the trend towards more effect colors is continuing relentlessly. Helicone HC effect pigments create special color effects - depth of gloss, heightened brilliance and a distinctive color transition (color changes with viewing angle) - that lend each product an individual look. Helicone HC grades offer a variety of color d
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Mark, The answers that were posted to your question are hardly "bashing". You wanted to know what the difference was and I thought they were good answers.
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Looks real similar to the "new" type fuji plate reel seat.
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Robert, I just finished building two 1448's for myself, and test casted one last week.....I love mine!!! Being a bit heavier doesn't bother me with these big sticks, and so far they outcast anything I currently have. Mine are built casting vice spinning, and are rigged with Daiwa SHV 30's.
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Hank, I started double wrapping my underwraps on my surf rods, but the reason I do it has nothing to do with strength. I recently started using "J" metallic thread because I like the colors. The thread is so thin that I double wrap to make the thread look brighter. I'm not a big fan of color preserver so the double wrap works great for me. I also double wrap the guide feet but I don
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Mike, I'm not saying that for some it might seem like a waste of time, not make any sense, and is totally not needed. I agree with all of that, I'm simply saying that if you don't like the texture of the blank, coating it with a couple of coats of epoxy will level it out. As far as saving a few dollars on an unfinished blank, I may have understated that. I think they were purchased 100 or so at
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Clyde, I enjoy reading your posts. I think we finish about the same way. I eyeball the mix, mix the crap out of it, slop it on, then blast it with my heat gun. Sometimes I blow the finish all over the work bench. I do on occasion get a fish eye, so now I think you've convinced me to go with some sort of torch......I think I've got a little pyro in me anyway. Maybe some sort of self-igniting
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Ray, after time, not much "is" a pretty sight (lol). While you guys were posting I just finished coating (you guessed it) a whole blank! Turned out beautiful! I learned about this from a rod builder that orders his blanks "unfinished" to save a few bucks. I've seen some of his rods come back into the shop after many years of use, and they still look good to me.
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Tom, I agree that permagloss is superior for coating a blank, but it would take many, many coats to fill in an unfinished blank, if it's even possible.
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Ken, just coat the whole blank with flex coat and then wrap. I've seen this done by a good rod builder and you can't even tell when the blank is finished that it was rough in the first place. I don't know why flex coat wouldn't be a good finish for a blank.....I've coated whole blanks before and it holds up very well.
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