Couldnt find anything in the search....But I got a few winding checks (.591) that need to be 1/2 a mil bigger.....Trying to think of the most efficent way to ream them evenfully. Im thinking of making a tapered mandrel for the drill with a medium sandpaper to start,then a finer one.... suggestions? Thank you. Walker
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Thanks guys...I figured out a solution last night...Instead of using a decal thats been fully cured with Krylon,I sprayed a thrid ,fresh coat on...Let it set up under a lightbulb for about 20 minutes..Slapped it on with absolutely no issues!!!...No cracks,or anything...I guess the key is to only spray them prior to use,this way,the top cures (like epoxy) first,then the rest will cure later after
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Isnt the Krystal clear acrylic?
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I just started adding two coats of crystal clear to my waterslide decals...I really liked the results of the first one...almost flawless! However,Im adding another one (from the same sheet) and it seems to be cracking alot after I throw on some microsol. I remember the first one doing this a little,but shouldnt the epoxy fill in the gaps for a clean finish? Thanks Walker
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Thanks alot for the replys guys...I completely failed to mention that Im building this with EVA..
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I really like rubber caps..Epspecially the CRB caps with trim rings....But I dont think it will work on my current build...The rod is a heavy and the butt is about a .5...Any suggestions..What do some of yall like using? Thanks Walker
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Isnt it strange sometimes how they offer everything in gunsmoke but nobody makes a gunsmoke trim ring for buttcaps (that Ive found anyways) I really like using the CRB trim rings and butt caps butt they dont offer gunsmoke. Do anyone know what I can sub for this,or any other ideas? Does anyone know a way to transform silver rings into gunsmoke using heat? Like a torch/oven or something? Tha
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I know they look good!...Just spoke with them eariler today about the flipping and swimbait blanks!
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Ron Schneider-Schneider's Rod Shop Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you are thinking of the "SG" Shiney Grey color > Alps, we have them as well as the other 3 colors > in stock. > Here is a link; > You have no idea how happy you just made me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will talking to you Monday. thank you!
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Does anyone know who carries the Alps gunsmoke winding checks...I saw swampland carried the gold and silver. But I really need the gunsmoke....Any gunsmoke winding checks at this point would be greatly appreciated Thanks Walker
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For some reason the search didnt bring up anything,and Im sure this topic has been repeated time and time again,so I apologize. Im building a 7'6 flipping rod for my FIRST custom customer...Total component cost is $123 Now Im looking to keep my builds as cheap as possible without screwing myself or him .(if thats possible) I dont have a clue how to price a custom rod....Ive been told to doub
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Thanks again guys...I signed the rod yesterday by hand..I think it came out really nice for a first attempt,I'll post a pic when it fully cures..... I think Ill stick to signing my name,but anything else specific teams,websites,etc Ill use waterslides....I think they both have a place on a rod
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > > A shorter condensed version was in RodMaker Volume > 12 #4. > > > ................... Thanks Tom!!...I owe you a kitten!
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Guys I really,really appreciate the help,thank you all....I have a question about measuring the balnk action or degree Whats the formula for that,or is there a chart similar to the guide spacing charts that Ive seen. Walker
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Thats really good advice Tom and your right!..I'll send him an email and see what we can work out..All my personal builds are fast action,and they all respond differnt (all different blanks) now that I think about it. Walker
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I have what could be my first customer,however he threw me a curveball! He wants a 7'6'' heavy / xtra fast rod built for flipping and frogs. I dont know anyone who makes those specs..I can find fast,but not xtra fast?? I trying to find the blank for under $100 if possible to stay true to my quote...I told him from the beggining that it would be hard to find those specs....Anyone got a lea
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Call your Internet provider and there ITT people > should be able to help. Now its our company computer system (admin) After an old receptionist couldnt stay off Myspace and missed 3,000 phone calls in 4 months..Our fired her and put restrictions all over our web browsing....Ive tried everything,but its a
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George Forster Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > from the Library at the top of the page. ahhh thats the one,thank you...Im blocked from the library on this page...I can really only explore the threads
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There was an article on handling a rod properly that I cant find.A built rod,not just the blank. My computer blocks alot of things on here(work),so I cant search it out...any links/help would be greatly appreciated. thx Walker
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I contacted Matagi awhile back..They will ship to you...After I got my quote,I decided to stick to the hardware here=) I just emailed thier sales depo with the product numbers and my location in TX Walker
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This has been really good stuff guys .Thanks for all the replies..
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Haha,..Bad handwriting I suppose would be a deal breaker! I did watch that video Michael Munoz had on the Flex Coat page..It was good stuff...It answered my questions on what to use. Yea I use to tattoo cursive script on the side of customers fingers,Also my initials on my wifes ring finger as well ...You talk about a p.i.t.a!! However I had spent several hours drawing tiny script flash and I
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I couldnt find a search and Im sure its been disccussed,so I apologize in advance. You know I spent the time creating a logo and ordering all my waterslides/microsol/set and what not. But I really like the feel and look of hand signing a blank..It just gives that classic custom look IMO...Ive havent tried yet to hand sign a blank,but I spent several years as a tattooist (I retired of it to bu
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This is a good read on IM's
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Andrew Metzger Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I set my threaded barrel on the rod with the reel > I was going to use. Glued on the rear portion, > then I cut and prepped the front threaded portion, > the threaded portion fit the hood and nut that > screws down. I then slid it in place while > holding the reel in the seat. with the thre
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Andrew Metzger Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Sure does, otherwise the foot is going to fall out > and slide out the side of the seat. Thanks...About how much you think...1/2'' thread support for the foot? More? sorry for all the questions. Im trying to get it glue'd up tonight so I can get started on the decorative wrapping.
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Ron Asker Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have to say the writing on that blank is pretty > impressive. I gave up on that technique after my > first several attempts came out looking like my > 3rd grader scribbled on a rod. Im just curious...What is used for writing on a blank? Nice looking rod..The hand writing is impressive
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Andrew Metzger Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I cut that threading down to the same size as the > hood and make sure you measure twice and glue > once. Ok I plan on doing that as well....Im talking about distance between the two pieces (trigger & threads) Does the actual reel foot need to rest on the first few threads for support? Am I makin
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Im building my first rod with a minima reel seat (Pac Bay) My question is (since I dont have any experience with these seats) whats a good distance between the trigger and threads? I know it mainly depends on the reel's foot size,so I guess my real question should be...Is there a certain amount of thread the reel foot should rest on?..Right now I have the trigger glued up and I mocked up the th
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Ive never used the heat gun,buts thats good advice. I use the dremmel/srewdriver as well.. Just prayed to god you never get a cheap,plastci reel seat..I had one a few weeks ago. The heat from the cutting bit,re-melts the plastic together while cutting slits....You talk about a p.i.t.a. I had to make about 8 cuts (multiple trys on each one)before it finally started coming off,and it came off
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