D.....All of the above.
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I did my first one a few weeks ago...I did it before installing the grips like Mike suggested...I did two thin coats of finish before installing the grips/rubber checks..No finish afterwards..I really like the look of it this way...I havent done it with grips already installed,so I cant really help there.
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Thats kind of what I thinking..Just a little something to cover all the small things that get diminished slowly each build.... That sounds good,thanks Tom Cool Chris,Ill look that up now...Thanks
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This is my first year as a business owner and had a quick question. When factoring expense cost on the rod...How (if any) are you formulating rod finish and thread? Is that something you worry about adding into the build cost? Just curious about this. Thanks guys!
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I used brushes for awhile...Then bought the spatula set and Im very glad I did...It took a few wraps to get use to,but now my confidence is all in them. For butt wraps...I grab a good amount and drip it on one end ,run it 360 around the wrap then start working towards the other end rotating the rod by hand as I go..Adding more finish when needed. In most cases,the finish is leveled before Im
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Lorenzo something I do (with D2 as well) is after it is mixed,I spread it thin on a sheet of foil and hit it quickly with a heat gun on Low heat. This eliminates almost all the bubbles..Even those pesky microscopic ones as well. A hair dryer will probably work just as good.It only takes a second or two. I also have been using the same syringes for quite some time now with no issues,but if the
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Get ahold of Billy Vivona..Or look to the left at the (sponsors) NERBS website...Thats the only place I know of to get it. I just got a block not too long ago from there. w
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I have a small fan that I run in my room with a small air filter taped to the back...I run this on low while I work to help collect dust/particles in the air and to keep me cool...When Im about to apply finish I turn it off to stop the movement....Use a dry brush to wick off particles on the thread,apply my finish,then move to the dryer stand. My wife use the other side of the room for her salo
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I work it down about the same...I use 100 & 150 to get it down(I need to stock up some 80grit)...Then 600 before I finish. I then take my trusty old sock and a little acetone and wipe them clean..I feel that makes them even smoother.Only on EVA grips though. As far as tools,I just fold the sand paper to acheive what I need it to do for the grip for now
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I would just wrap at a speed your most comfortable with...For me,the faster I go,the more I find myself backing up to re-pack gaps,overlaps,etc. I just find a smooth ,moderate speed to wrap with that allows me to pay closer attention,like Peter mentioned.
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I wrap masking tape as a guide and us a razor saw...I did the hacksaw before,and it works fine,but the razor saw with a fine blade is a little faster/easier for me. Then I run the cut end over a flat file to level and clean up with fine grit sandpaper...
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Well I went for round 2 last night...I let the adhesive dry before pushing the pieces together..I think its gonna work nicely but well see...I also think the Seal All is fine too...On the first heavily inlaid grip I did with eva (red,black,white color foam) I used both Duro and Seal All on the grip and thought the Seal All left a hard line..The line is on a white eva trim ring,so I thought.....I
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Tom / Ken thanks guys for your input. Ken that's a good read and I will check out that shore adhesive. Im pretty sure the stuff I use is waterproof....Seal All is what its called..I started using Duro spray adhesive for most grips,but now that Im trying checkers I think I need to dump the Seal All and try something else.
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Billy Vivona Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > YOu don't need a clamp with contact cement, not > for EVA or cork. Here's my sale page for my > checkerboard jig which shows how to properly glue > up a C-board using contact cement: > > boardjig.html. Make sure you cut pie shapes out of > the same ID piece of material, and you glue the &g
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Thanks for the help guys . Roger, Im not to savy on all the tools...What do you mean by a backing board?...Kinda like keeping the sandpaper flat like a file,sort of? John,I might have tried to reposition them too much...I cant remember....I tried not to but its very possible.
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So I did my first set of eva checker rings....They came out ok....A few things though. When gluing them up I used contact adhesive on both sides pressed them together for a few minutes,then on to the next one..After all pieces were glued I used rubber bands to ''clamp'' them over night...After that I sanded and cut them into 1/8'' rings... The pieces I glued were about an 1'' long so I could cut
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Mike Canavan Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > just curious, are those made by Fuji? Thanks I think they may be Batson but Im not 100% Ive only used one so far...seems to be a solid little top!
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Check out @#$%& on the left,.I think they have the SIC 4mm top up to 7 in a tube size.
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Saved in favorites....Very cool...Thank you!
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I would leave off the white off and run the blk and sunrise for the underwrap as Tom suggested,the contrast should give you the undertones you want......But anytime Im uncertain,I run a 2'' tiger wrap test of those colors on a scrap blank....It lets you know pretty quick if its gonna work or not.
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Thanks Tom for the reassurance... Let me ask you this (a little off topic maybe) But for those who still build on the spine,would it be safe to say the the spine would not go striaght down the blank?..Since the material is rolled to make a blank,wouldnt the spine technically spiral down the rod? Just something Ive been wondering and couldnt find much on..
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Found this article on another site. I just want some opinions on if this is crap or holds some value. For some reason I feel theres alot of varibles that arent being consider but the coffee hasnt quite kicked in. I know the line will always seek the lowest point under load causing rod twist. But anyway,thoughts are greatly appreciated to further my understanding. This doesnt seem right to me
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Ive never fished with recoils..Nor am I fimilar with what they really offer.....Is splitting the guides with recoils half way to the tip offering up anything?
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Peter,Where did you see these?..Icast? Id love to see a pic if you know of one,thanks! W
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Haha..I had a similar issue....Im a bassist,and when I would leave band practice and go home to wrap thread...The thread would always look dirty and fuzzy as well...''I washed my hands so what the crap?'' ,I thought. It took a minute for my brain to click!...It was from playing bass and shredding my calluses..And we practiced 2x a week.....So I thought about it logically and found my solution.
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Curtis I think it looks great for your first build!...Way better than my first,hahaha! Keep it up!
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Just to echo what Walt said I use a razorblade as well....and re-apply a thin coat of epoxy....If the bumps are very subtle Ill wait 48 hrs for a full cure and hit the whole wrap with steel wool and work it smooth,wipe it clean with rubbing alcohol/water mix and then re-apply epoxy. Never tried the paste wax,I actually have some on the shelf=)...I might give it a try.
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Walt,I do mostly EVA grips all of which I shape myself on a drill lathe and mandrel.Its very easy to shape. Just make its spinning striaght before you start...If the mandrel is too small I normally shim it with masking tape for a tight fit. I start with either 100 or 150 grit sandpaper in 5'' x 1.5'' strips and work the handle till Im satisfied. I usually hit it with a quick 500 grit then take
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Any idea on the spool size?...Flurocarbon is such stiffer line compared to Mono...Plus at 14lbs I can see the line wanting to fly off the spool when you open the bale like a spring!..I personally never use anything over 8lb test for my spinning rigs...
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I agree,and I do it as Bill described....straightest axis with the curve pointing up.
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