So just dig out your cardboard box with the V slots and a couple of books
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I would also like to convey my condolences and prayer foryour loss
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As a beginner I do not feel that you should really have a need for a power wrapper. You should just start out with a hand wrapper and progress from there.
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You made a great deal especially both pieces new in the box
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That is identical to my Turncrafter Pro with the exception that mine is the variable speed version. It performs flawlessly and has done many grips and inserts. I only wish that at times I did have the extension also, but will eventually get one. I literally stole mine as it had only been used once and I got it for 100.00, one of the best investment I have ever made, and it have paid for itself m
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Kevin has given me excellent service on any of the purchases I have made from them.
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I totally agree with Tom, an 8'6" or 9' 3or4 wt would be just the ticket for this. As far as difficulty to cast, for some they take to it fairly easy, others more difficult. Practice is probably going to get the best results, or if one of your local shops has a casting clinic it would be a great help. The biggest thing is do not get frustrated after the first outing and give up, you will
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I would go with a 12,10, 4, and 2's the rest of the way out. Single foot 2's should pass the knot just fine,
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I have both the Sevier 6' 2/3wt and 6' 2wt in my personal arsenal and they both perform flawlessly even to the point of catching 5 - 7# carp on them.
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How about Decal Connection, one of the sponsors here. Link is to the left
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The RX6 really isn't a good choice if he is looking for a slow blank,
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I opt for Vegas since I am on that side of the world.
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You have to be careful with those *#@$ blanks, the ferrules nor the blank are are heavy enough to withstand the added stress and strain of 2 handed casting, they will fail. That is the primary reason that most of your switch and spey rod blanks are considerably heavier than a standard blank. Make sure it is listed as a switch or spey blank.
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Like Spencer said, I use the Crafty's Cutter on all Cork, eva, and hypalon, then the pen barrel trimmer and a dremel on the wood handles.
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Wife's 9' 7/8wt that I built for her is wrapped in all metallic and works just fine.
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You have to read the specs on the motor, some of them do use a stepdown transformer as they are not compatible with 120 volts and will immediately burn up.
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Those blanks are anything but slow, they are actually a mod fast action, and will throw either a 5 or 6wt line quite well, depending on skill. For a beginner I would probably go with a 6wt
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I deduct Fair Market Value on the donation and pay the FET tax on all donations.
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I'm alson in Az, and have never had any issues with belts on my wrapper, although mine is inside in the rod room and climate controlled.. If your in the Phx area go to Bearing Belt and Chain and they can probably set you up with something.
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I can't say that I've experienced this in my area, but if it does there will certainly be some words exchanged rest assured.. I might ask, how did you come to find out this was happening, you can pm me if necessary
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Email sent
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HE HE HE HE LOL
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I do all mine just as Walt does, threaded rod, fender washers and I use Titebond III except for the foam or plastic accent pieces, which i use Rod Bond. I have all thread in all sizes ranging from 1/4 to 3/4 .
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RDP also offers a 7'6" 1wt blank
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Batson has an RX6 9' 5pc 8wt, which means about 22" sections that should work great.
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You are better off sitting in a chair with it behind your knees, as when standing and squatting to do it you stand the chance of loosing your balance, falling backward, and possibly breaking the rod
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Guess I didn't intrepret the problem while reading, I assumed it had a gap between the seat and cork.
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For some reason, I feel that you may have created an air pocket and it may have caused the grip to move slightly while in the drying process
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A 1 1/4 " hole saw will not give you a diameter of 1 1/4 you need a 1 3/8 due to the fact that hole saws are measured by the OD, not the ID, so you have to take into consideration of the thickness of the cutting kerf on the cutter.
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You shouldn't even have to cut them off, just use a small amount of heat while applying pressure and they should come loose pretty easy, just like removing a tip.
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