I can't believe Roger has commented. He must have miss your post!
Forum: rodboard

Norman & Roger, Thank you guys for the info on the Fenwick wrapping thread. I have had two Fenwick rods for reconditioning longer than I care to admit! The rods are from a very good fishing buddy; for whom, I have built numerous rods. He hasn't asked about them, but I am sure he starting to wonder if he's ever going to see them again! Shame, Shame on me! I just ordered the Chestnut Brown &
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You can't go wrong with a Mudhole Blank for price & quality, although they are plenty of options out there!
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Douglas, Just apply a couple of coats of color preserver and let it dry. Then apply the epoxy. The color preserver will stop all kinds of problems encountered when epoxying over decals.
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My wife finally got after me about the accumulation of shipping tube I had in the side yard of the house. I used my sawzall, cut them up and put them in the recycle bin.
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I agree with John Cates comment. While cork is more expensive than EVA, it feels great, last a life time, if not abused, and looks great too. I've not used a Winn Grip on a rod. I have only done one carbon fiber grip, at a clients request, and he returned several months later and ask me to replace it with cork. Apparent he was casting a large plastic worm on a bass rod and almost threw the rod
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Chase, I live in CA where we get plenty of hot sun, especially in the summer. As a result, I use 5 minute epoxy on all of my tip tops. I found the hot melt available for tip tops would soften in the sun while laying on the deck of a boat and allow them to twist. If I need to remove a tip top, I just gentle hear them with a lighter and remove with a pair of pliers. I don't think you need to be
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Jim received quite a few humorous comments on this post; but I would like to share my experience as a builder with Point Blank rods. I have built many rods for a semi-pro angler using Phenix K2, NFC & MH High Mod blanks. In June of last year I built him a Point Blank - PB701MHF. He came back this spring and ordered a Point Blank 691 MLXF. At that time, he told me his "go to blank"
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Gary, Yes, you can apply epoxy directly to the abalone skin; but you'll need to apply color preserve over the decals before apply epoxy. I usually apply two coats of color preserver over my decals and let iot dry an hour or two before applying epoxy. If you applied the decals on top of the abalone, then you'll need to put color preserver over the decals and abalone before epoxying.
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Tom & Norman, Thank you for your replies. The rods are 7' casting and spinning rods rated for 30 to 60 lb test. I've done several ocean rods in the past with under wraps and did not epoxy the under wraps first. I found the over wraps to be a little more difficult without epoxy on the under wraps. I don't think strength is an issue just easy of warping the over wraps.
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I build 90% bass rods; but a very good friend has asked me to replace the guides on 4 ocean rods for him. My question is regarding the epoxying of the under wraps. Is it recommended that epoxied be applied to the under wraps before wrapping on the replacement guides? Or, wait and apply epoxy after the replacement guides have been installed? I am wondering about the penetration of epoxy through t
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Rick, The problem probably was a result of the reaming out of the cork grip was not concentric with the outside of the cork grip. That can be pretty tuff to get that perfect. I fight it all the time, since I don't have a lath to chuck the grip in and ream it out.
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Steve Chontos Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The level of service I get out of my local post > office and the mail carrier is terrible. Mailbox > door open, wet mail, flags up, flags down, mail on > the ground and on the street and just wrong > address all together. Several times I have had > packages thrown onto my driveway when nobody
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Mud Hole Custom Tackle Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi Don, > Thanks for your feedback, part of our effort to > lower our shipping rates required us enlist some > alternate carrier options. Its obviously a > delicate balance between costs and level of > service, we work regularly with our service > providers to optimize that balan
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Bill, I built a rod for a return client and he requested a carbon fiber split grip. Not having a lot of experience with making a carbon fiber split grip, I order one from a vendor and it was beautiful. Coated with epoxy and really pretty. A couple of months later he returned and ask me to cut it off and replace with a cork split greip, which I did. He explained that he had almost lost the rod
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Brook, When I order a few supplies, such as guides or a tip top for repair jobs, I wish Mudhole would not use UPS for the shipment. They pass off the shipment to USPS for final delivery and it ends up taking at least 2 additional days to arrive. Why not just ship with USPS initially on supplies, as it would arrive much sooner. I live in CA and I don't mind the usual 4 days of shipping time, bu
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Bill, I have experienced the same thing as you. I have found that recently, (not to mention which one), a sponsor located in FL has been using UPS rather than Federal Express or USPS. What happens to me is UPS passes the package off to the USPS for final delivery. The problem with that is it takes at least 2 additional days before I receive the shipment. I live in CA ad orders from FL used to
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Just because there's snow on the roof, doesn't mean the fire is out in the furnace!
Forum: rodboard

Roger, I have built many Mudhole blanks and have not had one break that was not caused by abuse or slammed in a rod locker. For the price you can't go wrong with a MHX blank. They also stand behind all of they rod blanks. Most blanks that I seen, which are broken are caused by "high sticking"....swinging a fish into a boat with the rod or snapping it trying to get it off of a hang u
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Kevin, I've forgotten items on my order more than I came to admit....I just choke it up to being over 70!
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Brian, I would think that Tire Bond would work better than epoxy. Epoxy does not sand well after it sets up.
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Rex, I had not heard that Mike Pederson had closed Riley Rods. I do remember seeing numerous post that guys were having trouble getting there orders shipped. Have you tried emailing Mike to confirm the validity of the email? I have Mike email address; but don't want to post it on the web site. Send me an email and I will give it to you.
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Ed, I have been building rods for myself for over 30 years. I got requests from friends to build them a rod about 15 years ago. Being retired and love building rods, I started my business and wondered the same thing. What to charge for my rods. What I considered was the price of a comparable "store bought" rod. Obviously the manufactures are buying in much larger quantities, so it is
Forum: rodboard

Charles, Mix 3 ml of each, Resin & Hardener. You'll get a better mix and it will be plenty to do your rod. I don't ever mix less than 3 ml of each, even when just doing a repair job.
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Tony, That would be the rear grip length only, not including fore grip or reel seat lengths. Personally, I would be more include to agree with Tom's or Roger's suggestion above on a 7' long swimbait rod. You don't want to be hitting yourself in the stomach every time you cast the rod. Measure the distance between your palm and elbow ond use that as a starting length, then adjust to what feel c
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David, I would suggest you ask Jim Ising at Anglers Resource. Jim has always been very responsive to any questions I have submitted to him. I have Jim's work email address. If you would like to have it, send me an email and I'll send it to you. I don't think Jim would appreciate me posting it on the web page.
Forum: rodboard

Matt, There has been a bunch of replies to your posting; but I will share my personal experience when I built myself a flipping stick. I used the Fuji KB/KT guides and went with #4 running guides. I also use braided line with a Floro top shot. I found that I had trouble with a knot passing through the size 4 guides. I solved the problem by lengthening the fluorocarbon leader to keep the knot o
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Tony, Do waste your money. I bought one and found it didn't work as well as aligning the guides with my eye. I sold it to a guy in Montana for 1/2 the price I paid and ate the shipping costs. Just my 2 cents!
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You can go as light as you wish. If you really > want an extra light finish try a coat or two of > Permagloss. The thread texture will be visible but > the guides will be locked in place, and I don’t > think there is anything lighter. > Norm Kenneth, I second Norman's recommendation... us
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Randy, I would recommend you use at least a schedule 40 PVC pipe as the conveyor belt systems the airline use can be very brutal to a rod tube. You might even consider adding a piece of 1" x 2" and add foam padding around it to secure the rod you are shipping. The 1" x 2" would add some weight to the tube; but it would also add security that the rod will arrive in one piece
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