I have to replace a guide on one of my fishing rods (black blank w/ black guides, black wrap w/silver trim bands) that I use all the time. I can replace the guide no problem but it got me thinking. When you replace a guide do you try to do anything to make it blend in with the rest of the rod. What I'm trying to say is that when I replace the guide the wrap will be all new and shiny compared t
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I knew it had to be one of three guides so after some pretty strong pressure I was able to push the ring out of the bad guide. I haven't taken the guide off yet and my eyes aren't what they used to be but I think I can see a crack in the guide. I would not have felt comfortable gluing the rings. I'm sure it would have failed again at just the wrong time. Thanks for all the advice.
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I was was bottom fishing this past weekend and hooked into an enormous nurse shark that really put a bend in my rod. As I put the next bait down I noticed that one of the rings had popped out of one of the eyes. I figured the guide had cracked allowing the ring to pop out. I just pushed the ring back into the guide as a temporary fix. After that I used another rod for the rest of the day. Pr
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David, I misunderstood your question. I thought you were talking about the transition onto the foot of the guide. I'm not sure I understand the issue. A picture or two might help.
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Did you file the foot of the guide so that there is a slight taper onto the guide foot and not a large "step up" onto the foot?
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Sometime ago I saw a post where someone had replacement rubber o-rings available for rod dryer supports. Not that it makes any difference but I believe they were yellow. I have searched all the forums I belong to and have not been able to find this post. If anyone remembers the post or can point me in the right direction , I would appreciate it. UPDATE: I finally found the original post an
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Duplicate post
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I have had trouble sliding the shrink tube onto the EVA after spraying with adhesive if the fit is too tight. Has anyone else run into this problem or is there a trick to getting it to slide in place?
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If you can, try to contact Capt Richie, Atlantic Custom Tackle, on the Bloody Decks Board. When I had the same question he recommended a United Composite 7'6" CX Raptor blank that he had available. It works great up too 5 lbs, haven't tried anything over that. I didn't need to cut anything off the tip or add anything to the butt just built as it came. Before that several people recommende
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Thanks for the idea of using the magnifying app for the iPhone. I just downloaded it and have used it a couple times already.
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I use the type that comes with a headband and has a number of interchangeable different strength lens. Works well enough for me and was fairly inexpensive. I think I bought it from Mudhole.
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Why keep us in suspense?
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I too have used metallic on guides and have never had a problem with strength. But I have had problems with the "foil" breaking or stretching causing blemishes.
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I like many different types of fishing. I also like building rods as a hobby. This way I can build the rods the way I want them. I certainly do not do it to save money.
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Chad - Is this the one you are referring to: Don't think the link will work properly but It's on the Batson site under Tips and Tecniques. Not a video but a slide show, maybe what I was looking for.
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Thanks for all the responses. I was referring to grip material such as x-wrap. The one I remember showed a way to mount the x-warp where the fore grip meets the reel seat so no edge showed. I haven't found the original video I remember but have found several others on youtube that suffice.
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I have seen a step-by-step video for installing shrink wrap over the grips on a new build but am unable to locate now. Video showed how to get a perfect fit on the ends that meet the reel seat. Does anyone remember seeing it and know where I can find it on line?
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I believe if you ask most suppliers will provide you with a Material Data Sheet.
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Yes, epoxy and rubber cement is the way to go. Easiest method I have ever tried.
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Ck this site:
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Sounds like a lot of finish if you are using all 6ml on an 8" wrap. I mix that much at one time but would probably only use a couple ml on an 8" wrap.
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Its not the rod blanks that are subject to ITAR compliance. It's the technology used to build some of the high tech carbon fiber materials that is subject to ITAR regulations. (used in vechiles, rockets, weapons, etc.)
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Is there any rule of thumb or formula to determine how much thread you need to wrap a given rod? (I don't wrap enough rods to get a real feel for how much I need.) I either seem to end up with 2-3 times what I need or just short of what I need and have to order more. Any ideas appreciated.
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Thanks for the response. A link I was given indicates that they are not used much any more. What would be used to repalce them? BTW: I mainly fish saltwater and still see a lot of them around, even on some new rods.
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What is the proper name for this type guide and how do you measure their size?
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You can also use a coffee filter. Cut a small hole in the middle, starting from the tip, create a "cup" with the filter and your hand around the blank, pour a little permagloss into the cup, and slid it down the blank. Repeat in 30 minutes if necessary to cover any missed areas. (Don't forget to wear latex/nitrile gloves!)
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I wrap as a hobby not a business. I purchased a Pac Bay wrapper which works well but was probably over kill. Looking at the Ecowrapper I would probably be better off with it.
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Depending how many bubbles I usuallu try to "cut" them off with a razor blade after the finish as set up. If I have a lot of bubbles I cut them out and then sand with 200-600 grit, clean very carefully and recoat with finish. If I get a lot of bubbles I try to figure out why before I refinish. My experience is that the less I mess with it, the better off I am when it comes to puttin
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I agree that on a 20-30 # outfit you would not need to douple the wrap holding the eye in place. If I'm doing something really light I will skip the underwrap but generally I do an underwrap with a very light coat of finish and then wrap the guide on with a single layer of thread. Cover with finish and you are good to go.
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I agree with the red on top but not sure about the bottom wrap. You want as much contrast as possible. I would do a couple test wraps on a dowel or old rod. Its kind of tricky. Your never really kow how it's going to look until you try a couple combinations. Also, several coats of finish over the bottom wrap before putting on the top wrap gives the tiger more flash and movement.
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