Adam, I mentioned those BNHG guides but also said they probably aren't your best choice depending on things like the line used. The Minima's and REC Recoils are certainly viable options. Many use them with braid. They wouldn't be my choice unless using mono. I would suggest going with what Rick mentioned. As Tom said they were originally targeting wire/monel line. Today you can get them i
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I know what you are talking about. I don't think it is your only, or best option. A lot would depend on if you are using braid or mono. Anyhow see if Fuji BNHG Rod Guides are what you are looking for. The BPHT is the matching tip.
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Titanium would be best but comes at a steep price. They are easier to break. Most stainless guides are type 304. Type 316 is a better choice for seawater applications. Do not dress your guide feet. Do not use a magic marker on them. Rinsing is always good but I like to go on long range trips. As far as the rest, well I wouldn’t use roller guides on my fly rod and I wouldn’t use snake
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Chris, no experience with the silverback series. I have the sw708-2 it is more like a cobia blank and the sw765 looks close in power. The pelegiac 705/704 are nice trolling/live bait dolphin/sailfish/kingfish rods.. The Xray 736 is a nice all around 8-17# spin/jig type for yellowtail/trigger fish/Bonita/kingfish. The Xray 703 is a sweet little ML power blank for trout/redfish/yellowtail/small
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Personally I like a stiffer tip for fishing jigs. It helps me feel bottom contact and light hits better. So I wouldn't want an extra fast action. What Xray blank are you using Todd? For 1/8 to 1/4 ounce range I'd pick the SJ703. For the lower end I have the FW 702-2 (IM) that I think would do. I would consider the FW 741-2 (HM) too light in power. Sorry but I have no experience with any
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If you want to go with NFC, take a look at the Delta line for your friend. More durability and a lower price point. The MB662 should work. The FW602 would be a nice addition because two rods are better than one. Add a few for yourself while they are on sale, get better savings, and free shipping. The Xray SJ703, SJ726, IM FW702-2, and the HM P704 are a few of my favorites that should work
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Chris (and Jay) I haven't responded yet because I know anything about drop shot and walleye. I was hoping others with experience in those areas would chime in. What I can say is I have bought at least a dozen different models of the NFC blanks so I'll share my thoughts. I would say the ratings are reversed for the SJ703 and SJ732. The 732 is a little more powerful and a little slower in act
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The only thing bad I could say about the Fuji DPS(M/H) line of reel seats is they aren't high in bling factor. They have never let me down. Like Spencer, I have some that are quite old. I have them on my RCLB's rods and I think they are a good match. The blanks and the seats fall into what I'd call solid value choices. I feel the same way about Alconite guides. That being said Alps is a
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Kendall has a nice list for you. I would include NFC, Lamiglass, Seeker, Calstar, and Hydra. Seeker and Calstar are mostly salt water though. Lamiglas is getting hard to come by and might be on the way out. Typically there is no cross over between blanks and factory rods. Few companies offer both. I wouldn’t get hung up on names. Worry more about matching blank to technique. Some manufac
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There are a lot of different ways you can go about it. An abrasive wheel is perhaps the worst choice. Since nobody mentioned it an oscillating tool with a toothed blade is one option. That said, my main point is I would highly suggest dust collection with a HEPA filter (or better yet, working outside) and a respirator. Carbon fiber is probably worse than texalium but I'll claim enough ignor
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You don't need much. Some 1" X 4" wood with a V-notch lined with velvet does fine as a wrapper. Many used a V-notch cut in a cardboard box or just held the rod....so you are already high timing it with 4 feet of popular, 4 drywall screws, and some titebond wood glue. Next step up? Replace the V-notch with rollers (think in-line skate wheels, sliding glass door rollers, etc.). Tel
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"Taper is just one of multiple factors that determine action, so the two cannot be used interchangeably. Other factors include wall thickness, pattern design, fiber type, resin system, and so on. All that said, if you look at enough blank specs over a long enough period of time, you can check tip diameter, butt diameter, material, and weight, and get a fairly decent idea of what you're deali
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I don't know about y'all but I have a hard finding a nice 2 piece salt water rod. Of course I'm prejudiced against them for serious fishing. Maybe that is why I haven't found much, you think:) That said, I have been looking to add 2 piece blanks to the arsenal. So I took a chance on one despite the ratings (I have too many 8-15# and 12-25# blanks if that is possible). Glad I did as it exce
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Chris, I don't have one but from everything I have read I think you might want to look at the Suzuki (black hole 801L). 8 foot, 1/2 to 2 ounce, 10-20#, 3.2 ounce weight. Supposedly with some serious balls. Could be right up your alley.
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I don't have the MB 736 (the only MB series I have is MB 7109). From what I have heard from others it is a little less powerful than the SJ 736. So I would say it too is more rod than you desire assuming you just want a little bump up from the SJ 703. The SJ 732 is a pretty decent jump in power. More than I'd say one would "need" for trout but my trout are small, like 2# max, I'd s
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Ernie, try the SJ 732. It is a bit more powerful and a tad slower in action than the SJ 703 (despite what the web listed ratings are).
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Ernie, I’m the one who felt the SJ703 wouldn’t do for snook. But when I fished for snook the fish were below dams in heavy current or holding tight to bridge/pier pilings. Plus they were 10-20#+ fish! Sometimes you needed something closer to a tuna rod. The SJ736 is too much rod for trout. I’d call it a 12-15# class rod (I’d call the SJ703 a 6-10# class). The SJ736 has maybe a little more
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I may have this whole thing entirely wrong, but wouldn't an accelerometer be the ideal tool for the job (measuring CCF)?
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Alex responded promptly and assured me the matter would be taken care over. My issues was I was charged full price instead of a discount price I was offered in an email.
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Michael, I having trouble getting any response from them on my last order. Could you send me Alex's email address?
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In your shoes....I would use a "spar varnish". I don't know what brands are sold there locally. That said the auto clear coat is the better option if it can be had. Consider making friends with someone who paints cars. You could also look for epoxy used as a pour-able product to coat table tops. That is basically what normal thread wrapping epoxy resin is. But you wouldn't want
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I too am a little concerned with my latest NFC order and discount code. I wasn't worried when the discount didn't show up in the shopping cart but I am concerned that it didn't show up in the email invoice. So far I haven't heard back from them but it has only been 24 hours. It is good to know they are open to cancelling the order, as opposed to processing it at full list price. Michael,
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I haven't built mine yet. I think you will like it. Think you might like the one piece even better. Looks to be a little faster. I also think you should toss a FW 702-2 (IM) in the cart:)
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Tyler, rods are a little like lures. Many are made to catch fishermen. When I first came here I had to un-learn what I "thought" a rod was supposed to look like. Florida salt water guys are very resistant to change. So you can go old school if you want. Fuji MNSG guides have always did the deed, and they still will. But you don't need double foot guides and you don't need under
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We are probably going to disappoint you as I doubt anyone would suggest you use something like what you have on your Lamiglas. You don't need seven different size guides. Most would use four, five as a maximum. As usual pick your smallest guide based upon any knots you need to cast through the guide train. Pick your biggest guide based upon reel spool diameter. With a nine foot rod you &qu
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I won't disagree with you Ben but my take is different. I think it all comes down to the fish you catch and where. I'd much rather fish a modern reel with a quality drag using lien/Dacron than a 50's reel with braid. But that is because feeling the hit is way down the list for me compared to being able to land the fish. Now there are some vintage reels that had decent drags or can be upgrad
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Thanks guys.
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So who were you building the Rodgeeks rod for? It would seem to be the first choice to approach for buying the CTS. If you were building the Rodgeeks for Robert Flowers then I guess he will have to settle for some cost cutting measures to meet his $700 budget:) I wouldn't think you would have a hard time selling the raw blank.
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Does it have the same stretch as they old nylon that we all loved (no need to mention name brands as you know what I mean)?
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The HS7600 is certainly twitchy (never seen anything more twitchy in graphite). It is probably more than you want to spend though. The other potential issue is that while is has a XF action/soft tip it also has an XF lockup/hard butt. If you over react to a short strike you will rip the hooks out of the mouth and/or break light mono line. It will be in an entirely different league in terms o
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