Does it have the same stretch as they old nylon that we all loved (no need to mention name brands as you know what I mean)?
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The HS7600 is certainly twitchy (never seen anything more twitchy in graphite). It is probably more than you want to spend though. The other potential issue is that while is has a XF action/soft tip it also has an XF lockup/hard butt. If you over react to a short strike you will rip the hooks out of the mouth and/or break light mono line. It will be in an entirely different league in terms o
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Well I'll certainly volunteer to take that Gudebrod thread off your hands. By clicking on my name you should be able to email me if interested. I'd prefer you set the price as I wouldn't wish to feel I'm taking advantage. I totally understand all the rest. My condolences. It seems your family has been blessed over the years. I'll pray that it continues to be so. The one thing none of her
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If I were in your shoes, and thought I could do it without giving away my intentions, I want to get a look at his favorite rods. That would give me an idea of his needs/desires and how high the bar is. If he is a bamboo purist a top name rod may run $3500+. In more modern materials the same brand would be about a 1/3 of the cost. Awful lot of middle ground there.
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Tom is offering sound advice (as usual). I wouldn't pay a plugged nickel for most any guide from 20+ years ago. However if I needed to match a guide on a rod someone brought to me for repair, all of a sudden that guide becomes a precious commodity. There are certainly some blanks from the past that command top dollar. The rod lathes may be worth good money if they are the right names. I mi
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Derick, what do you think of a back bounce blank? Seems to me they are made to handle more weight yet still be sensitive. I'm asking this for myself as much as you::) Yup, I have often read that east coast guys would cut casting weights/power in half compared to how salmon/steelhead rods are rated out west. I will say I love my two hot shot rods. Ultra fast tips with some serious back bo
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If you are going to lob the upper weight offerings I'd fish that Suzuki until it failed. It might surprise you. From what you have said you really like it (in all other aspects but that concern). I'm not a surf caster, and on the opposite coast, so keep that in mind. Odm nex1 105 might fit your needs. Truth is most surf rods aren't fast action. You could always consider extending a blank
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Correct Mark. If my individual wraps can be wide enough I don't bother with the A&DT method. If your fresh water trout rods have 8 different colors in the wraps you are simply going to have to comply as resistance is futile and you will be assimilated. It would be best if you don't admit to such conspicuous excessive behavior on a public forum. Otherwise you may receive a visit (from th
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Mark, since you asked for my thoughts here you go. I don't normally use the nail knot method. I do agree that thread wraps should be planned. However there are occasions, such as "improving" something" A little extra embellishment can make a big difference in some cases. If you want that to be under the middle of a double foot guide, after the fact, there aren't many alterna
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How many of you use the "nail knot method" to add trim bands to existing wraps? I find it especially handy for that.
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It sounds like you are fishing saltwater. Some of it in the surf. If so you need to get something that will stand up to the salt. I'd suggest something in a 316 stainless frame. I wouldn't try to match the old guides nor where they were located. For what I think you are trying to do I suggest reading the 27X guide placement article in the library. It is fast, easy, and works well for big
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I do happen to have the MHX version you mention. They call it SJ9000-2. The tip is soft and it is XF. However I would not call it sensitive. You see hits , not feel them. Fun and versatile rod, but I don't think it is remotely in the class of blank being discussed. They still offer it though. So much for that train of thought. I have tried some of the fresh water NFC blanks (FW series
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I was going to suggest that Tom but it isn't XF (unless I missed one). The blank referenced above is actually a blend of SC 6 and SC 5 . Spencer, would the HS 7600-2 be a candidate (assuming he wishes to stay with NFC)?
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Mark, I suspect you already know much of what you ask about. Certainly you would cast a delicate live bait very differently than you would a Tandy candy bar jig. One you have to lob. One you can really lay into. I learned to fly fish from a friend in Tennessee. We were casting towards the bank and looking to land popping bugs under low hanging limbs. I never questioned anything until I
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Tips come sized in 64ths of an inch (or metric sometimes). 5/64 = 0.078" and 5.5/64 = 0.086. I'm surprised you measured the MB as having a fatter tip. Regardless I'd get one size 5 and one size 5.5 based on your measurements. Truth be told this is a good time to decide if this hobby is for you, and if so, pick a brand/type of guide and order at least one of each size. It will come in ha
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Danny, work with us and we can probably get to the bottom of this. Keep in mind, even a low priced blank like the CRB series, is much higher quality than your average Bass Pro/Wallmart $100 rod so they will be more fragile. Practices like letting a sinker bang against a blank when motoring from one place to another.....or letting a rod rest on the edge of the tail gate when driving to the boat
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Did the rods break right where a guide was placed? How far from the tip did they break?
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I am not in agreement that the rod that oscillates the longest/most amplitude/highest frequency equates to the most sensitive one. To me, the deflected rod that returned to its natural state in the shortest time and with the least amount of oscillation would be the most sensitive.
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Leonard, IMHO some of the listings on the Xray blanks are wrong. I think they have some numbers associated with the wrong blanks. In general, I'd say the blanks are a little weaker than you'd expect compared to other companies. The SJ series is stronger than the MB series. Also seems in the past people who ordered the same thing didn't always get the same thing so that makes it hard to compar
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I can't remember exactly....maybe 2 week range. Okay, just looked at some old posts. I was talking about maybe getting one on 2/19/21. Don't know when I placed the order but it arrived on 3/1/21. It appeared to be drop shipped direct from Batson. They included some extra items that made it an even better deal. From that same post.....they included a neck gaiter, flat bill camo hat, and a
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Rod house France offers a tool to compare different blanks. Works well if you want to compare a known blank to something else.
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I would say some here are actually measuring the damped oscillation frequency. I don't know the damping factor for normal rod blank construction. If one did he could calculate the true natural frequency. Only when the damping factor is zero does natural frequency equal resonant frequency. A damping factor of zero doesn't occur in the real world. In some cases it may be close enough to igno
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FWIW, both of those blanks are a lot stronger than what I find for the BSR802S GLX (6-10#, 1/8-1/4 ounce, X-fast, 6'8"). The SB 682-1 looks like a closer match. But hey, I don't know anything about the BSR802S GLX. The SJ 736-1 is the stronger blank of the two so I'd build that one as your casting rod. The SJ 703-1 is a nice finesse blank and I'd say it's rating is what they have liste
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Michael, it matters little what we call it when we talk among ourselves. Everyone here knew what you were asking about. I only mentioned it because it could matter if you look for answers in other areas, like long canes. In general I would say yes to your question. However I would point out that length and strength of the blank will give very different answers in your test but the different
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Michael, I would like to point out that what you, and others on this forum, are calling "resonant frequency" is natural frequency. Resonant frequency is a driven condition from an external force. Think about pushing a child on a swing. When you push at the right time the force becomes additive. The Tacoma Narrows Bridge is a classic example of an external force driving a system's na
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I'd put the epixor as a possible best buy for fresh water only. Forgot to mention that one. The Shimano Sienna is okay if you really want to go budget (but some say only buy the 4000 size). The Daiwa SS tournament will spoil you on other reels. If they added a AR bearing and a screw in handle it would be great.
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You indicate you want a 500 size reel. That limits choices a lot. The best I can suggest in your price range is the Nasci. They are coming out with a new model (FC), probably around the end of the year before it shows up. So if you can wait, you might get a good deal on the current FB series. These days you can get a 1000 size reel that weighs the same/less/close to a 500 reel. Then you h
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What line? Assuming braid no more than 15# what Norman suggests would be perfect. If mono heavier than 6# I'd lean towards the 20H, 10H, 5.5M. Yup, no need for more than two KB guides. One, or zero, would work too:)
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"Maybe I should bite the bullet and get a saltwater with a big ole butt." Maybe not for you Mark.....but for your friend it sounds like a smart idea. As a rule of thumb I'd say it is very hard to get 10#'s dead lift per ounce of blank and easy to get it at 2 ounces. Consider adding a couple/few of feet of 20-30 mono between the braid and the leader as a weak link. Say about 3-4.
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"What makes a bass blank different from a saltwater?" Good question. I'd say a question best answered by a honest blank manufacturer. You have the blank taper. You have the material used. You have the wall thickness. Find someone who makes both freshwater and saltwater blanks. I think you will find the same power blank in the saltwater series will weigh more. One company tol
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