I'd see if I could locate a Lamiglas before they are gone for good.
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Use A thread unless you have vision or hand dexterity problems. Any size spool will be way more than needed for one rod. Black (and metallic) is the only regular thread that retains it's color. Everything else becomes translucent and changes color (darker). That isn't bad thing but you need to be aware of it. If that is important your choice are colorfast or CP. What I would suggest dep
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Couple of thoughts on the build. I'd certainly go with a bigger seat but you need to make sure the reel seat mates with the handle kit. The two tone handle kit uses rubberized cork so it is going to weigh more. I'd spend the extra money and go with the G2 kit in carbon and the Aero seat. And yes, add a KB or two guide. But those are minor things and you might not agree. You mention reload
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I don't know anything about walleye but I see the IMMP76ML recommended a lot for the lindy rig. I have the predecessor to that blank and it is a terrific blank. And yes, make the other set of guides 20H, 10H, 5.5M. I'd go with 16H for 2500 and smaller reels with braid or mono up to 8#. After that go with the 20H. Just stay with the recommended grouping. I'm assuming spinning rods. I'd
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I found this. You might try contacting tackle warehouse and see if they can recommend something close. It is listed as a "Bass cranking rod".
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I appreciate that info Tom. I hadn't bought a two piece blank in a very long time.
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Looking at a FW702-2 (rated 4-8#). Right before the ferrule (on tip side) the diameter is 0.191" and right after (on butt side) it is 0.221". Diameter of the ferrule is 0.275". The straight wall part of the ferrule is 3.37" long and there is a tapered section about 2.1" long (on the tip side). It looks like a 1 piece blank cut in half with a long over-sleeve on it.
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Probably brand/model specific. The two piece NFC blanks I bought have that "knobby kneed" look you mention.
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Mark, they are handy for quick and dirty go/no-go stuff. Like is that shaft 15/16", 25mm, or 1". The EZ-Cal is works and I needed something anyone could use. My personal is a Fowler....and yup it probably is 30 years old LOL!
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I'm not a fan of kits either. But I'd say that is due to "extenuating circumstances". 1) My dad built rods back in the 60's so I was exposed to it at an early age. 2) I was building offshore rods in the 10-30# class. There never has been a lot of innovation in that area. Your basic full length EVA grips, pipe reel seat, cone of flight/27X/KR guide train is still the norm. Hard
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I have their "EZ-Cal" model. Price is right. I like the Fuji TS21C for tube sizing better but calipers are nice for lots of jobs.
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I had plenty of glass rods from the past that were nice. Shakespeare, Lamiglas, Fenwick, Conolon all made some very nice blanks. Honestly I think there was a tendency to spend less back in those days. I also think you might not have felt a graphite offshore trolling rod was "that much better" . I'd wager most IFGA trolling blanks are still glass. Graphite will be lighter, stiffer
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Hmm, he needs a bore of 4 mm. The flexcoat arbor has a bore of 1/4" or 6.35 mm. Standard 3M masking tape is 5.5 mills thick. If my math is correct he would need 8 wraps of masking tape. Call it 10.25" of tape for two arbors. Don't happen to have a scale handy.
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If Mo could find arbors with an 1/8" bore he wouldn't have started this thread. If you know of a source please tell us Roger. Otherwise it is get some PCV pipe, a piece of drill rod stock, and pour your own as David suggests. I'd keep the drill rod in and turn it on a lathe to make sure it is centered. Make the PVC large enough for your biggest handle as it is easy to turn them down' a
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One aspect of taking your time (and what not to do also) is making sure you get the parts you want. Some things, like deciding you want snake guides instead of single foot guides aren't that hard to change. The other way around is likely to be a cosmetic blunder. Fly rods are usually understated and elegant. The reel seat and the grips are going to be the bling and will also be the hardes
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"the expectation of what you get when dealing with a factory versus a wholesaler is another" I was going to suggest that but decided to stay out of the fray. I think it explains a lot. Stores are built to cater to customers. Factories are built to make products There is a fundamental difference and why most factories will not sell direct to the public. I have made it clear here
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Regardless of guides used, I would apply as many coats of finish (permagloss in this case) as needed to completely encapsulate the thread wraps.
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I was going to suggest Loew Cornell 7000 series. But I see they are no more. I suggest you get what you can before hey are gone. I like the flat/wash types. The chisel is my go to for most work. The wash holds a lot of finish so you may like one for decorative wraps. KingArt 9000 series looks like the replacement.
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You are getting great advice. I haven't tried the NEO line but they do look more powerful than the non NEO's in same rating. So what Aaron is suggesting is likely perfect. I'd say the SJ/MB736 is good for 3/4 but 1.25 oz is over the top if I'm casting for distance. I have the MB7109 Xray. I think it would be a rocket launcher with 1 oz. I bought it for a totally different purpose but
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And I was wondering if the RCLB80XL was enough rod. It has the light tip and would twerk on down near the middle of the blank like the video. Yet it has enough butt to handle surprisingly big fish. Steve, nice explanation on why you want what you want. Still think a heavier power lower modulus hot shot blank would be best but I totally respect where you are coming from. Not like I know squ
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If it was me Mike.....I'd feel like a good quality salt water fly rod blank could fish two line classes. Likely it's rated line and one class up. So I'd add a NFC 6 wt, 10 wt...and a 12 wt (because you know it is just a matter of time before sailfish, and maybe marlin, are on the dream trip list). Besides, you need to get at least 3 of the NFC blanks, and the higher end they are, the better
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Okay Steve, to best answer I feel like I have to know why you don't want a graphite hot shot blank. They seem tailor made for what you want to do. Ultra soft tip with ultra fast lock up to a strong butt. If you insist on mostly/some glass you are pretty much pigeon holing yourself into live bait or crank bait blanks. I fish a lot of live bait blanks so I am fond of them. But they are bui
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FWIW, I'd say reverse the ratings for the Xray SJ703 and SJ732 on the website and then they are close to what you would expect them to be. The SJ732 is a slower blank than the SJ703 The SJ703 feels like a light power spin jig blank. The SJ732 is closer to a popping rod blank feel. Chris, I would consider both of them too light in power for your needs. The SJ736 is too heavy IMHO. The MB736
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Options are limited in one piece. You might not get the quality you want. I'd suggest opening up the search to include two piece as well.
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Pick a hidden spot and see what a solvent like acetone or DNA will do. As long as it is just bad finish, I see no harm in trying. If something is wrong with the fiberglass, better to find out before you put time and money into it. If solvent won't do it you can always default to the razor blades/sandpaper solution. Call me lazy:)
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FWIW the blank in question is a 7 foot 15-30# rated live bait blank. In David's waters he would be catching dolphin, sailfish, wahoo, kingfish, blackfin tuna along with a smattering of others. He would be mostly casting live bait to sighted fish, free lining live bait, some trolling, and occasionally tossing/trolling lures. For trolling braid is considered dangerous here. Even when not trol
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David, the no name knot is going to have a little tag end sticking out at 90 degrees. That is probably what you are feeling. It isn't harming anything but if it bothers you you have a few options. Of course you could consider trying different knots. Perhaps try a "dressing" to make a knot a smooth blob. Then you can investigate ways to get by with a lighter leader. I'll often
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Michael, sometimes you just have to try something and see how it works out. Used to be we adapted to the tool at hand. I think the whole idea that we need a slower action rod for treble hooks is because some can't keep from over reacting. One of my favorite small/light crank bait rods is an extra fast action (mhx sj7600-2). Mostly because it has a tip that lets me cast light offerings and s
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How does this sound? From Schneiders Rod Shop "hot specials". 6' M/L Batson RX7 Graphite Spin/Universal Blank, 4-8# Line, 1/8-3/8 Oz, .515 B, 5.0 T, Fast Action 1 Pc, Dark Green Gloss Finish, Part # RS-ISJ721-PG, Sale $ 25.00, 1 Only It is a spin-jig but all the 6' crank bait ones he has listed seem a bit too powerful for your needs. This would be my next choice in what he
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7'6", 2 piece, 0.72" butt, 10 tip, 4-10 ounce lure weight, 9 ounce blank weight, composite clear gloss, special order, heavy jigging and saltwater. Never used one. Just what a search turned up. Sounds like it would be a durable yellowtail rod.
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