IMHO the quick and easy way to answer is the following. A longer sight radius gives you better accuracy. But hey, do what works for you.
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Considering what you like......I'd suggest the Xray SJ-703. It is a step up in power from the FW702 (okay maybe a step and a half). But it is a fast blank like the FW702. I have the P704 and it, like most popping blanks, are made to be slower action than a spin/jig. I also feel like the ratings on the website are crossed up between the Xray SJ-732 and SJ-703. To me the SJ-732 is a little
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El, you might consider trying a thread bobbin. Get the hang of keeping the thread a little behind the wrap so it "self packs". When you start to climb up the guide foot you will have to decrease your angle for the first few wraps. To begin with it would probably help if you had someone else turn the rod when using the bobbin. Just an idea.
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El, I did try and answer some of these questions in your post down below. First off, do understand it is a matter of taste. Next it has to do with where you fish, for what, and how. Finally, budget always plays a part. Some want the best bang for the buck. Some want the best period. But is the best Rolls Royce or Mclaren? Different horses for different courses. Lets start with blanks.
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On Mudhole's page for that grip it says to get the RVB-1 butt cap. Had you done so you would have known right away that the tenon goes in the butt cap and not the seat. Seats and grips can be one of the more complicated things as there are lots of options. I'd say go one of two ways. Buy a complete grip/seat/cap/trim ring kit. Here is an example (I don't like split grips BTW). Or bu
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Ed, tell us what seat and what grip you bought.
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Ed, if you like to fish 4# (maybe 6#) test for bass then I think you will like the FW 702-2 (IM). It is listed as a remastered Loomis TSR 862-2 GLX. Read the reviews on that rod. I wouldn't pick it for waters with a lot of timber or vegetation. But for clear waters with rock bottoms I think you will like it. The Loomis got used by some for bonefish in my area. For guides I'd go 16, 8, 5.5
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"One thing I am pretty sure about is that there has to be something(s) in play that would cause so many very experienced folks to have so very different opinions about guides ." I think you have to consider the context. There are lots of different fish, waters, and conditions. For example I'm near Miami. Most of the salt water fish I would be after are among the top ten fastest sw
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Ronald, I would say it was because of your claim to knowing "so little about fly rods" plus what you do know is that Fenwick......was why that NFC blank was suggested. It will likely be faster than your Fenwick (and more powerful) but not so much faster that it requires a total readjustment of your casting mechanics. I think you are going to love the rod and I predict you will add a
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Fly fishermen are more likely to travel to fishing destinations. FWIW I'd rather have a 2 piece also.
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If you are going to buy NFC, and I think you should, you need to buy three blanks to get the best deal. The Xray SJ 736 is a favorite of many across different fishing scenarios but might too heavy in power for your needs. Two of my favorites are Xray SJ 703 and FW 702-2. I'd fish 4# test on the FW and 8# on the 703. The FW 664-2 could do for the SJ 703 at a cheaper price. I haven't tried a
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My 2 cents. I think you want a light rather than UL blank. UL are more in the 2-4# range. Why do you want such a short blank? A longer one will cast farther, set the hook better, and make the fish feel bigger. I would suggest the fast action for single hook offerings (or inline spinners) and moderate for treble hook lures. Awhile back I bought a few of the NFC freshwater blanks when
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Steven, I'm assuming this will be used with 3 ounce tipped jigs for red snapper. Please post back with results. I have the same blank but didn't respond as I have not built it yet. I'll be very interested in your results.
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I have both the SJ703 and 732. I haven't gotten around to building them yet. To me the 732 is a little bit more powerful with a softer tip and a more moderate action. It feels closer to a popping rod. The 703 is a nice crisp feeling traditional spin/jig type blank. I would definitely choose the 703. I also have a mudhole sj900-2. They call it a spin/jig but it is clone of a hot shot bl
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Perhaps your 8 weight is more powerful/durable than their 8 weight? Assuming an apples to apples blank comparison, if your additional weight is in the fighting but/reel seat/rear of the rod I don't see it being all that detrimental.
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In rodgeeks I'd look at the X-comp series. Lamiglas GCBT is a proven choice. Seeker and Calstar have models that will do fine. The Hercules was made for NE party boat fishing. Musky blanks are very light and sensitive but won't handle boat flipping or high sticking. Personally I'd go with a composite blank for durability reasons.
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Well you said anything will help so...... What is intended usage? In my waters short, heavy power fly rods are used for bill fish. Often they aren't built on fly rod blanks. But if you are looking for a "bass tournament legal" fly rod that is different.
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That particular reel is going to be a problem. Between being big and having no "sweep" to the reel stem I can see why it did poorly. They really need a long surf rod to work out well for casting. Best I can say. Make your guides big (like 50 for a butt guide), and push them on out from the spool. A 7' rod is going to be hard. I'd go with 8'. Use old school 27X/NGC layout. KW's
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Gents, we are likely talking a spinning rod for tuna casting large "popping" type top water lures. Nothing close to what a regular popping rod is. Still I would ask what was wrong with MNSG as that is a proven solution.
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Be very glad you don't need prescription glasses and have eyes that change enough that you must have new ones every year. Most insurance policies will not cover two complete set of glasses every year. That could leave you spending $600 easy for a good frame with premium polarized progressive lens. For those in that situation looking for a cheaper solution consider something like the Cocoons
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As Jeff Saxby has pointed out, most rod companies build many different "species specific" rods off the same blank. And as Kent has pointed out, some rods may never reach certain areas because they are marketed for fish that don't inhabit those areas. However I wouldn't be surprised if certain walleye rods aren't sold in the southeast as sea trout (weakfish) rods. Growing up in sout
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What I do. I have a sand spike type rod holder screwed to the side of the porch at about a 30 degree angle. It might be a good idea to slide a piece of EVA, or use some tape arbors, to protect the butt of the blank. I glue a tip on, tip a short piece of cord to it and a carabiner clip on the other end. I clip a small pail on it and keep adding water up to a known weight. I do this as oppos
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I think you could get away with no lubrication also. That said I always like some. Could you add a couple/four felt washers on (each) side(s) of bushings and then oil them? That is what they basically do with motors and it works. Use a light viscosity mineral oil.
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No need for epoxy under the decal? Even on the Xray blanks with ridges? Any other tips? I have never put a decal on.
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Well Aleks did post a video from (IIRC) a Facebook page showing what looked to be an UL blank lifting a gallon jug of water in what anyone would call a :high stick" condition. Always wondered what blank it was. Everyone wants CCS numbers. I want dead lift numbers. Lamiglas is the only one I have seen post videos of breaking rods.
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The only thing that will reduce the amount of effort you expend turning the handle is a lower gear ratio. Consider adding a two speed reel to the arsenal. You don't have to spend a lot if you are patient and wait for deals. I was able to but some Shimano Tyrnos for about $200 on closeout. With regards to saving your back: a more parabolic rod will lessen the lever arm advantage the fish has
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Alex, how would you say it compares with the FW 702 power wise? I would imagine the FW 702 is faster action, but I could be wrong.
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Mark B, take a look at the SW708-2. It is stronger than the ratings (which is unusual for NFC). Other wise get the Pelagic 704 for 20# or 705 for 30# class. The pelagic line is more of a live bait blank and the SW is more of a spin jig. IMHO they have nothing suitable in the Xray line but I haven't tried the new slow jig blanks. All the other suitable offerings will be longer than 7 foot, li
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FWIW
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With those guides you would want to follow the instructions for the "New Guide Concept" in the library. Be sure to also read the "Static Guide Placement" article too. I have a 5'6" Fenwick UL that I bought back in the 70's when I was in Tenn. Still have it and now that I have moved back down to south Florida, it has caught quite the variety of fresh and saltwater fis
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