a rod built for an RCMP Member with matching feathers and wraps.
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PermaGloss was invented for just such a project, was it not? Harold
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Harold, > Since this product is water based, the product > cures completly when the water evaporates. You > have a cured bottle of seal that is good to go for > a long time. > > REW LOL. Thanks Roger, I knew you long time builders would have the answer...lol Harold
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Thank-you gentlemen. I figured this much, but thought I would ask just in case there was some secret the long time builders had that they might want to share. I'll experiment a bit, but at any rate, I'll order a new jar on my next supply order. thanks Harold
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I have a jar of Cork Seal (U-40) that has gone hard. I mustn't of closed the lid tight enough last time I used it. Can it be revived some how or should I just toss it. I know it's cheap enough, but it takes a couple weeks to get it. Just wondering if there is an easy solution. Thanks Harold
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Congratulations Tom. Besides bringing some of the finest builders in the world together to share their experiences, I really like the photo section. Seeing some of the fantastic work done by others has made me a better builder in trying some of the techniques seen on here. regards Harold
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I expect that this is an abnormal situation for you and not likely to happen again. Good building. Roger Thanks for the encouragemant Roger. We'll see once I get the rod here and take it apart. I did pick up some good pointers on this thread though. cheers Harold
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Sorry, I better clarify. It is the black rubberized cork. It has small flecks of natural cork mixed in and it smells like rubber. Billy, I didn't mean to get you so excited. I didn't know there was another type of composite cork.
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Yes it was Billy.
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Thanks Tom. I guess I've been fortunate in the past. I've picked up some good info on this post so it all helps for the next build. Harold
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Lorenzo. I wouldn't try to just PG between the guide feet. If the finish was compromised between the feet, then chances are it may be compromised under the feet as well. I'd do like Roger says, and strip the guides right off and start over. It's discouraging, but I know you'll feel better when it's done. It's only a couple hours work to strip the guides off, sand the blank down and rewrap
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I normally rub the blanks down with alcohol before assembling the grip and reel seat as well. The owner said he heard a slight pop before/just as the grip came loose. I'm curious what that might have been. I first thought it was the last grip of rodbond cracking loose, but who knows. Once I get it apart again, the truth will be in the pudding. Harold
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I'll see once I get it back, but I think the clear-coat/paint may be the culprit. To be honest, I have never sanded down to the blank under the grips, so I guess I've been fortunate this hasn't happend before. Good to know there is no problem in the properties of the composite. I didn't think there would have been but I never thought to ask in the first place. An easy and new step to impl
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Last year I built a rod using composite cork for the complete grip. The owner wanted something other than regular cork to take the abuse of a rod holder. I used rodbond to glue the composite cork on. Last week the grip let go from the blank and now spins freely. I've buit a few hundred rods and this is the first time something like this has ever happened. I do not have the rod back yet, so I
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Is this a rebuild or am I missing something. Why the permagloss in the first place? Harold
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Thank-you. Interesting stuff.
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I use Madeira on my guides all the time and too date have never had any issues. Harold
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I've always used wax. Teflon tape sounds like a good tip. I'll give it a go on the next one. Thanks Harold
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I do each leg as an individual wrap as well with no epoxy between the feet. I fill the tunnel with a drop of epoxy using a fly tying bodkin. I think it's a personal taste but in my opinion it looks more professional without epoxy between the feet. Plus it cuts down on the weight a smidgeon. The underwrap idea is a different theory and certainly needs to be epoxied.
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I'm a bling kinda guy myself. I like adding weaves and wraps to builds both for my customers and myself. Your right, it doesn't compute too more fish in the boat, but it sure makes me feel good when I'm fishing with something that looks great. (in my opinion) I feel better about myself and my gear. Harold
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I know the labor factor as I have done complete rebuilds before. I enjoy the challenge and before and after shots are a must as you say Tom. I'll inspect the blank thoroughly before I start in case the blank was compromised when it went overboard. It's a Sage 9' 5wt. 4 pc. Thanks for the help. I didn't think the submerged blank was going to be a problem, but there are much more experience
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A customer has requested a rebuild on a Sage rod he snagged from the bottom of a lake. He has no way of knowing how long the rod has been there. The cork is garbage, as is the wood reel seat. The guides are starting to pit, which to me means the rod has probably been there for some time. My question is. Will the blank be structurally compromised, and what should I be looking for with respect
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I enjoy building rods and I do take my time. Some of the guys and gals on here have built more rods than I can ever imagine building and with that experience comes some time saving techniques. They are not shortcuts, but better use of time. Torin, to refer to someone else's work as "JUNK" because they have learned some quicker techniques is a little harsh, especially if you haven't s
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Check out Batson blanks. I have built a lot of fly rods on them and have never had an issue. As far as bang for your buck goes, you can't beat them. No I'm not affilitated with them, I'm just an everyday builder. Harold
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very interesting Bill. I'm doing a second coat tonight on Madeira. Can't hurt to give it a try I guess. Harold
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I second what Bill H. is saying.
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I use madeira almost exclusively on my wraps because of the variety of colors available. I also use CP all the time, and other than the extra step and drying time for the CP, I have had absolutely no issues using it. I only build fly rods though for fresh water, so there may be some issues I am not aware of for saltwater use. Harold
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I use Titebond III as well. One thing to keep in mind using Titebond is that it is corrisive on your mandrels. Be sure to wax your mandrels before gluing and stacking your cork, and to remove them from your gluing mandrel as soon as you can. Titebond is usually set up withing a couple hours. When you put them on your turning mandrel, be sure to give them a wipe clean right afterwards, althoug
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Will. I use CP on all my guides on every build. I've never had an issue, mind you I'm not building the kind of rods you are. Mine are all fly rods from 2wt to 10 wt. if that's any help. I too use madeira thread on many builds. Harold
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Ray. Thanks for posting Dale's tip. That sounds quick and easy. cheers Harold
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