Larry; A Batson (sponsored on the left) blank may not be a sage, but for your buck and considering it's your first build I would certainly recommend one. My first builds were on Batson blanks and I still fish them all the time. I'd be giving them some consideration if it were me. I'm not affiliated with Batson in any way shape or form, I just like their blanks. Harold
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Normally I would agree Roger, but I have no use for a 9' 7 pc rod. The blank price was right, and I don't mind experimenting with this one. I think I've come to the conclusion I;m going to knock off one section and make it a 7'9" -6pc. I know a lot of guys that will want it if I'm not happy when I'm done. I can give it away or trade it for something else. Thanks for your input Roger, I
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I don't anticipate anything over a lb. in these little creeks, so the power aspect may not be a factor. Most of the casts will be simple roll casts. Bill, that's my plan for today is to line it out and see what it can do with some taped on guides and I'll try it with various line weights. I suspect 4wt. or possibly 5wt line to get it to load proper may be needed. Gary, good point, I never tho
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I picked up a 7pc. 9ft. 3/4 wt fly rod blank today for a very reasonable price. (trading for a butt wrap) It's moderate to fast action. I don't really want a 9ft. 7 pc rod, so I'm thinking of taking off the last one or two butt sections and making the rod either 7'9 or 6'6. I whipped the rod in the air a few time with the sections removed, and it still appears to me to be moderate action. Wi
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I guess I'm doing it about the same as most then. Sometimes I notice I get a bit more in one spot compared to another. (shakey hands-even with an arm rest) Thanks for the help everyone Harold
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What's the secret to getting a nice even finish at the edge of your wraps, between the guide feet. The outside edge is easy, it's the inside edge that doesn't always go on evenly. Is it just patience, and or, are there some tricks you use to accomplish this. I'm interested in hearing some of your methods. Thanks Harold
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I use the multi drawer storage bins normally used for screws, nails etc. I purchased three of them, that total 75 drawers. I can store all my guides, reel seats, tip tops, winding checks, hook keepers etc. in the bins, sorted by brand, size and color. For larger items like cork rings and grips, I use larger stackable storage drawers. For my bench I bought some desk organizers. A 4" roun
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Great news Jason. I'm looking forward to building on them. Harold
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Tony. I use a Forstners as close to the hood size as possible but a hair smaller, then a dremel to fine tune the hole for a snug fit. Harold
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Good advice from everyone Chris. Just to add to Russell's comment about uncoated thread from the sewing shop. Much of the thread in sewing shops is coated with silicone to make it easy to go through the needle in a sewing machine. Silicone is a contaminant and your epoxy will not adhere proper (or not at all ) depending on the amount of silicone in the thread. The advantage to sewing shops,
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A pleasure having you on board Gary. Are there any plans for fly rod blanks with North Fork? I loved the GL3's, built many a rod on those blanks. cheers Harold
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I found what I wanted. It would help if I typed in the right search parimeters. thanks Harold
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I did a search and can't seem to find exactly what I'm looking for. I want to refinish a rod. It appears under the existing guide wraps that there was no gloss finish (for lack of a better term) used under the wraps. It almost looks like the rod was wrapped and then the gloss finish put on the entire rod after this. Would they do that??? I'm thinking of air brushing the rod for an even fin
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I've never used high build so can't comment on it but. When I started building rods I was introduced to the low build and have never had any reason to change. cheers Harold
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That sounds like an excellent tip. Thanks Roger. Harold
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Thanks Robert Is there a specific polish (brand name) that is better for this application than another. Could I use "Silvo-Polish" or something similar. I would think a person doesn't want anything too harsh. Once polished, I would wash it down thoroughly once or twice with alcohol to ensure no contaminants are left, correct? I wasn't overly excited about using the perma-gloss
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Thanks for the clarification Roger. I have a rebuild to do on a blank that has lost it's lustre. It doesn't seem to be dinged up too bad, it's just not consistently glossy. I am going to strip it down and clean it up. Originally I was going to use PermaGloss on the blank, but read this post, and of course the wheels started turning. Once I strip it down, I'll go over the complete blank with
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Thanks Bill. That was one of the first rules drummed into me. That is why I was curious with Rogers statement. Harold
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Thanks Chris. That's what I was thinking. I never heard of the craft paper trick, I will have to give it a try. cheers Harold
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Roger. If you have stripped a finish from a rod, and want a nice polished look about the rod, then the use of various grades of polishing compound as the blank is spinning in a lathe is a good way to go to achieve the perfect polished look on the blank before building the rod. By this methor, sould I be safe to think that the wax would not act as a contaminant to the epoxy if applied prio
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Andrew. Not sure when you say bronze, but I have built on the GLoomis tiger-eye color blanks (GL3's) and the Gudebrod Garnet # 521 with metallic gold accent trims, looks really nice. I use 2 coats of CP. Harold
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John. I fish light rods. 9' - 2, 3 and 4wt.s most of the time. I use snake guides #2's and 3's as my runners. The lines are factory looped and sealed, so there are no uneven edges to worry about. Once in a while where the two loops join, it will hang up on the tip for a split second, but even this is rare. It happens because of the line changing direction from the tip when a fish is on
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John; I use Versi-tip lines all the time. It takes all of about 2 minutes to switch from floating line to sink tip, or full sink. They are loop connections. The last 15 feet is all your changing on you base line (floating) They cost more on the initial purchase but work out far cheaper than having two or three different lines and spools. cheers Harold
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hi David. check your email. Harold
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I don't think it's too small, if anything it's probably as big as you would want to go. IMO cheers Harold
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I use it on about 50% of my builds. Some customers like the look and feel, some do not. Personally I like it and have it on all of my personal rods. For what it costs, you can purchase a small container, and it will last a very long time. cheers Harold
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Brian, speak with Todd or any of the other suppliers on the left. For your first build, I would go with relatively inexpensive components and chalk the first build up to experience. Once you get the hang of things, you may then want to experiment with some of the more expensive products. IMHO. Welcome to the new addiction. cheers Harold
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I agree Tom, I think those terms are more in the eye of the beholder . The rod one chooses has to feel right in the users hand, not just because the manufactures spends big bucks on advertising every year and tells you that their rod is the best. A number of years back, I was swallowed up in the advertising web. I just had to have a Sage. Now I have two, and they never leave my locker.
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Just had a great offer from Wayne Diduch in Ontario. He is going to send me out some copper thread, no charge. Said it should be here in BC in three or four days. How great is that... Wayne, thank-you very much and Tom, again, what a great Forum. thanks Harold
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Sorry David, no such thing as Wally World up here in Canada. The closest we have to that would be our local Drug store that handles everything from fishing gear to an enema. (just don't want to mix them up) lol Harold
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