I looked there first Spencer. I'm in a small town so this apparently happens to be a special order, of which I would have to order a minimum of 5 spools. I love small town living, but this is one of the drawbacks. cheers Harold
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That's great, thanks Tom. Harold
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My customer wants copper trim wraps and it takes about 2 to 3 weeks to get a copper thread up to Canada using the good ol' postal system. I was wondering if anyone has used the thin copper wire we use for tying flies as a trim wrap thread, and what the results were, both good and bad. Thanks Harold
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Let me know what you find Tony. I'd prefer if there was some place up our way though. Maybe a little closer to home. cheers Harold
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Thanks Tom. I was just wishful thinking. I'm arranging a subscription through a friend in Washinton. Cheers Harold
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Tom, your right on the money. Good explanation Mr. Hicks. cheers Harold
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Tom, will this change anything as far as shipping to Canada? Please... Harold
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Sam/Tom. Thanks for the permagloss tip. I never thought about using that for the wraps. I've started an experimental dowel last night using TruOil on one end and varnish on the other. This will give me an idea of both properties/finishes. I'll also be doing some wraps on these once I hit my desired finish. I'll use the permagloss on some of these sample wraps along with varnish on others.
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Thank-you John. I appreciate you taking the time to explain why not to use the products. This first rod is for me and I do like the TO finish better than the varnish on the reel seats I have done. And it is so much easier to apply, thus I was leaning towards the TruOil for the blank. Thank-you for explaing shimmering, I wasn't exactly sure what they were referring too. cheers Harold
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I've never built a cane rod before, so this will be my first attempt. I read up on finishing the blanks with a variety of different sealers, and I think I will go with Tru-Oil. Anyone that uses it seems to love it. My question though, in reading up on the blank finishes, people are using Tru-oil for the blanks but then change to a varathane or the likes for the wraps. First, why are they chan
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Hi David. I use both closed diamond wraps and chevrons all the time on UL fly rods. They look great. A number of the patterns in Billy V's book would probably work very well also. cheers Harold
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Here is Johnnys email address. He is great to deal with. Responds immediately. JKSALESNSERVICE@cs.com Cheers Harold
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I never even thought about the glue adding moisture Mark. I used Titebond III on these glue ups. I've got a small digital scale, and I will order up a moisture meter for the next ones. Thank-you Harold
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I use my dremel with a small cutting blade. Has worked great for me so far. cheers Harold
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Thanks gentlemen: I will take the time to dry the wood even more. I live in British Columbia, and we do get our share of humidity, so I would think that even though it looks dry, there must be some variance in moisture content that I may not have factored in. Steven, the idea of a small home made kiln interests me. I'll send you and email. Jeffrey, I tried to send you and email to as
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I've turned a number of reel seats and toyed with making some wood grips, but have not used stabalized wood. The wood I used was quite dry (at least I thought it was) but I see on some of the grips I turned, the wood appears to be shrinking at a slightly different rate. (I can feel very slight ridges between the different woods) I used a combination of two or three different woods on the grips
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I've built on lots of them, ranging from 4wt to 8 wt in both 2 and 4 piece and have had great success with them. Absolutely no complaints, great bang for your buck. Harold
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I was putting a new razor blade in my knife today (OLFA brand razor knife) and noticed a fairly high amount of what appeared to be an oily substance on the new blades. They obviously pack the blades in a light oil substance to stop rusting or oxidation. I washed the blade in denatured alcohol and washed my hands a couple times to ensure none was transferred to my threads. I've never noticed th
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Good idea Bob...Post a picture or two when you get them done. cheers Harold
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My apologies Billy. I have only used Trondak U-40 CP and I have not had that problem....yet. Thanks for the heads up. Cheers Harold
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It doesn't matter if it goes on the blank. It dries fairly clear. Once your epoxy goes on it you don't see it at all. She's clear as a bell. cheers
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I agree Bill: The thorough mixing is absolutely crutial. Naturally equal parts in the first place is a must. I mix using those little brown flat sided stir sticks for coffee. I mix for two full minutes, let sit for one minute and mix again for 1 minute. I time this on my watch, not just guessing. Since I went to this method, I have had absolutely no issues with epoxy. I used to dread, wh
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Personally, I wouldn't want to turn cork or wood in my rod building room. Just too much dust and possibility for contaminants. That being said, the renzetti will definitely turn cork and I'm sure light wood, but if you can spring for a small lathe, I think that would be the way to go. Just my opinion though. Cheers Harold
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Some fly tying thread is waxed, but not all. As Stan says, you wouldn't want to use the waxed thread. Might be a good time to experiment.
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I doubt any dye/stain will penetrate right through the cork. Cork is too dense. It will give you a surface cover that like you say, you can seal with Tru-oil or the likes.
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From what I can tell, the benefits of underwraps are strictly cosmetic. If you prep your guide feet proper, so they sit flat on the blank and have no burrs on them, the underwraps are not needed.
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Perfect, thank-you. Harold
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I built a couple new grips today and inserted some accents rings using hobby foam. I tested soaking some foam in water for a while, and there didn't appear to be any absorption. I don't mind the cork seal, but would prefer not to use it if I don't have too. What say the experts here. Does the foam absorb or will it absorb moisture over time, and should I seal the grips? Thanks Harold
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I use the nail knot for line to leader, a surgeons knot for leader to tippet and an inproved clinch knot from tippet to fly. Harold
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Right from the get go, I have been building rods on the straightest axis, from the advice I received here on the forum. I have never had one blow up nor have I ever had a complaint about how the rod feels fighting a fish or casting. As Tom says, it just doesn't matter. Rarely is the spine on straightest axis, so if you build on the spine, and look down the rod, more often than not, the tip sec
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