Got mine for the VSS. It is beautiful. Love it. One issue, I don't really get what they mean by works for vss 16 and 17. Definitely only works with vss 16. Hope they make it for vss 17.
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The most important thing about a fishing rod is if you like it or not. It is impossible for someone else to tell you that.
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I can't get the handle parts I want so I have not built my Lamiglas CWB75MH yet, but I cannot wait to get it done. I am really impressed with the blank. For any walleye baits 3/8 oz or more I think it will be awesome. I also have built and fish regularly with the IMMWS62MXF and I like it a lot. CWB75MH is more powerful. Both will handle 1/2 oz easy. My opinion, if you are going over 1/2 o
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My NFC MB 705-1 (IM) weights 1.9 oz on my cheapo electronic scale.
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Has anyone fished this blank? My favorite St Croixs were the 3, 4 or 5 68MXF. Has anyone cut down the 4C610MXF to 6'8" or have thoughts on doing it? Thanks
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I am getting ready to build a couple of NFC X-Ray blanks. Just wondering if the texture of the blank causes any issues with the label? Can the label be put directly on the blank or is some prep needed? Thanks
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I think it should work, particularly for #7 RRs and Shiver minnows, maybe a little stiff for casting #6 RRs. I really like any of the S70MF for Rippin Raps and other rip jigging on the Bay. I know some guys that like S70MLF, but I think I get better hook sets with M and don't lose much at all for fighting fish.
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I have found styles of premade grips not available from regular vendors on a popular bidding site. Also, I have found options for VSS and IPS that are available direct from manufacturers in Asia. I know there are a variety of opinions about buying through these sources. Choices are more numerous for IPS and size 16 VSS, but I have found both EVA and cork choices for size 17 VSS as well. I wo
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I should have added, that to keep maximum distance it pays to trim off 10 yards or so after it wears. The new line definitely casts further then the worn line.
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In fishing conditions I think Nanofil will cast as far as any line. I fish for smallmouth bass in extremely clear water in the spring. Long casts definitely get more bites. I started using 10 lb Nanofil, but the line is plenty strong so I dropped to 8.
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My favorite. Down locking with the threads trimmed flush to match the reel. I don't use a fore grip or a grip behind the reel seat. I offset the arbor in about 1/8" on each end of the reel seat and use epoxy mixed with black paint to fill in the void.
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It could go either way. I don't think you would gain much by having the stripper much closer than 18 or 19 inches so I would try the 12 there and move the 5.5 to line up with the choke. I concede this is purely aesthetic but it just doesn't fit my eye when guides don't get progressively further apart as you go towards the reel. I have even moved the choke guide further out than is suggested
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Chester, if I am reading your numbers correctly your stripper is closer to the 5.5 than is the choke. From a purely aesthetic point of view, I would look at using a 12 for the stripper to maintain increasing spacing from the smaller to larger guides. I doubt performance would change significantly either way. That said, if this works for you, go for it. I have a number of rods set up for 100
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Thank you for the follow up. The description of the construction method is very helpful. I have contacted my supplier and I will be sending him pictures of the guides I have to determine if they think there is an issue.
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I carefully reviewed the Minima guides I have recently received. The TM3XG-16 and TM3XG-8 look good. I also have a number of sizes of M and V style steel frame with chrome ring guides that look just fine. The TM3XG-7 and TM3XG-6 both have almost all of the ring on one side of the guide frame. On the 7 it is the side facing the reel and on the 6 it is the side facing the tip that has the
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After typing my previous reply I just checked some XF4XG size 3W that I recently ordered. One of them does not even have a ring.
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I have a similar problem with the titanium framed Minimas. On one side the ring is wider than the frame and on the other the ring barely extends past the frame. It is pretty clear the rings were not centered correctly in the frame before swaging. I have not tried to pull a ring out the frame, but I can't imagine it would be much of trick to force one out. It is really not worth my time to wra
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One thing to keep in mind, the lure weights listed are not for casting. Bottom bouncers are used for trolling and drifting. I have a 70HM I have not built yet. Very light for power of the blank, but I don't think it would cast 2 oz very well. I think it would be a good Carolina rig rod. It should work for football jigs, if you don't like a real fast blank. I have been planning to build mine
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What is replacing the RX8 and RX8+ blanks?
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My opinion is that it is little light in power for a 1/4 ounce. I throw mostly 1/16 and 1/8 with mine. Also, I think you would want a little more muscle for setting the hook on a shakey head, especially jig heads with heavier hooks.
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I would use a Batson XP 840.
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I would suggest a St Croix in a MLF or MLXF in whichever series fits the budget. They are a little light for anything over 3/8 oz, but I think you will find that with most of blanks you will be looking at.
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My favorite would be a SC 7' MLF, but sounds like that would be a little fast for this. So, I would suggest looking at a HM MHX SJ 841. The tip is not a fast as a drop shot blank and locks up a little faster than a popping blank.
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Did the bad casts happen when you tried to give it a little extra power? Many times that extra effort to really get one out there is counter productive, especially casting into the wind.
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For a blank I would suggest a St Croix S70MF in whatever series best fits the budget. I use my 3S70MF for 3/8 oz football jigs with grubs and it works great.
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This seems backwards, but give it try to see for yourself. Don't trim your bobber stops, or leave at least a 1/4 " of the tag ends or so. The trimmed tag acts as a stub to catch on the guide, longer tag ends actually help the stop go over the guide. The longer tags wind right into your reel with no problems.
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I used the information available at the Anglers Rsrc - Fuji link in the links to the left of the page. The guide location calculator is pretty cool. I tweaked things a little for aesthetics, but it worked great.
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I am going to give you more to think about. Does placing the choker guide to maximize casting distance maximize the usefullness of a freshwater bass drop shot rod? With light mono or braid can you be much more aggressive in choking down the line? The beauty of custom rod building is you can design rods to maximize their usefullness for a given technique. Rod building is a series of trade of
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What I have done in the past is go to a store with a number of rods, check them out and measure the one I like. Also, there is a very popular bass fishing tackle web site that lists handle lengths for all of the rods it sells.
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Rainshadow RX8 IP 841,842, 843, which ever fits your sinker weight and/or line weight. I like a 7' rod because it gets me around my bow mount while I am on on my butt seat. I am on vacation right now, just got done catching about 30 smallmouths today on a XP 841, 3/8 oz sinker, fishing vertical in 15 - 25 feet of water. I love the 841 for 6# fluoro, #4 Gammi drop shot hook and any 4"
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