Yup, David. One can never have too many rods. Sort of like women's shoes and purses.
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I see no functional advantage in going small on fly guides. There are disadvantages in going too small, as has been pointed out. There is a functional advantage in going light, and that is faster response from deflection (and a crisper feel.) As long as the guides are strong enough, and I've never seen a wire guide that wasn't, there is no functional disadvantage in going light.
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I don't think most "ML" power blanks will handle the jigs you plan. Geoff has a good recommendation, IMO.
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The reduction guides, whether 20-10-5.5 or 16-8-5.5 will not make a significant difference with what you plan. I like 20-10-5.5 because it's more versatile, and I don't think the weight difference that far back on the blank makes a difference in anything. Based on my work on some blanks, especially fast or Xfast actions, one can put SS reduction guides on the rod and titanium runners and there
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Mike, what is the weight of the jigs you will be using?
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If you have that rod you are trying to match, measure it for CCS and tell us what you get.
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Cutting these will not make a significant change in the weight of the rod. Cut a half inch off the light end of a 10 gram seat? Will change the looks, proportions, but nothing else. IMHO
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All subjective terms except length, hard to say what would match them since most blank makers don't define these terms the same. Doesn't "mag taper" mean most likely more power than "med light" and also imply "X-fast" action? From my definition of ML power I would think you would want more for jigging lake trout. Sure would be nice if you had CCS numbers your
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Mattias, if you're not confused after all this conflicting advice, you are a better man than I. I will only add one more confusing, conflicting, comment-While I am a big fan of Fuji, I can see no reason for spending extra money on Torzite for fly rod guides.
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70MLF as is or extended, will work fine. I would go 7' to keep its action/response tighter. But probably not a big difference.
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I'd go 7 foot Legend Elite ML, F or XF. Should be ideal. I'm not familiar with the Thorne blank. 7-6 length won't balance as well as 7.
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I just want to emphasize the importance of NOT applying epoxy to the whole rod. It is IMO impossible to get a smooth finish and it will make the blank so heavy that its response will be affected, slowing it down. This is not a subtle thing; epoxy will most likely ruin the rod. Blanks don't have to be finished with anything, but if you want a nice glossy finish do as Norman suggests with Pe
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Exactly what are the guides do you plan to use? What line do you plan to use? The biggest factor in sensitivity, IMHO, is the line, mainly braid less than 15 pound test (less than 15 to allow the lightest, smallest, guides), then very light running guides. If you are stuck with SS guides which are fairly large then you are wasting money on an expensive blank. If you want the ultimate in sens
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Good choice Ed, you will love it. Put a Daiwa LT or Pflueger (also very light) , or other very light reel, on it for a very nice outfit.
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" The guides are going on a C6O2 blank. You owe it to the blank, and yourself, to put the lightest guides you can on it." If the blanks are as good as we are being told, I agree. I expect they are pretty darned good, and I would use titanium.
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The recovery speed of a few blanks I've tested on TNF have shown a significant difference between SS and titanium running guides, fuji KB/KT size 4 if I remember correctly. So there is a measurable difference. As others have stated, none of the smaller guides weighs much, and whether you will see an improvement in performance or not is not for us to say. When I want to build the BEST, I use ti
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Part of the confusion comes from the use of a "speed-related" term to describe ACTION, the terms "fast", "slow,", "moderate fast," etc. This came, I believe, from the rate of taper of the old cane rods. But it gets confusing whether one is actually talking about ACTION or recovery speed. Too late to fix now.
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It is more likely that F. L. O. (Flat Line Oscillation) explains a rod that does not track straight. You can easily find it on a fishing rod blank using the TNF process. Thank you David Taylor for introducing me to it.
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I guess it depends on one's definition of sleek. To me they still look cumbersome, thick, not in any way elegant or sleek as are many metal framed guides. But you are right, to each his own.
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PB701MF is one of my favorite rods. It has an ERN of about 20 which allows it to cast a wide range of lures and can handle good-sized fish well. I think the ML might be a little under-powered. I have not used the 7-3, preferring rods from 6-6 to 7-0. The PB701MF with a 3000 Daiwa Tatula is very light and well balanced. I use the same braid range you are considering. PB's generally have v
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I have seen the Zenaqs, still don't see a carbon fiber guide that I would like to use. thanks, though
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I have yet to see a composite guide that I think is attractive. They are all too bulky looking for my taste. Different strokes. . .
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Don't doubt the abilities of the human body to discern differences. But rely on science or measurement to try and prove the observations correct, as what we think or say we like is not always correct due to our inherent biases. Yes. To run TNF on a blank or rod takes seconds. With nothing more than your wrapping machine or other way to hold the butt and an Android device. (And a calculato
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NFC has some really sharp, nice, carbon fiber grip components. I just don't think there is anything nicer or lighter. If there is, it will be by an insignificant amount, IMO. The ESCM seat has an angle to the grip/seat arrangement. If you don't want that, the ACSM is straight, also is sized for the blank so no insert is needed. It's my fav. The gunmetal hood is really sharp.
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If you want to use guides other than the 20-10-5.5M that the software yields then I suggest you put the first one at 19 or 20 inches from the reel face, then arrange the others (like if you want to try the 25-12-5.5 or something close to the 5.5) then locate the second, third, and first running guide so that when you look down the guide train from the butt you see a "bullseye." With t
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You probably don't need to go as big as 25, but if you have one it certainly will work. I would try 25-12-5.5 with 5.5 runners.
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Your English is better than most or our Greek, so good for you!. I never use more than three reduction guides, and go right by the software at : I don't even test cast any more. Running guides should be placed by doing a stress test, and Fuji's stress test is at Run the software and see what it says, but it will likely recommend 25-12-5.5M. (maybe larger on the last one if you go with
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The swell is in the palm with fingers on the blank. I prefer the Fuji, others may prefer the Aero up-locking. If they try it . My ONLY point is that it is an option that can work.
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I would use that seat up locking since I wanted to try it that way. It causes no problems. It is not my favorite seat-I've only built one. But my issue with it is not its functionality- it's that in my opinion it's so ugly. I much prefer the Fuji DPSSD as mentioned earlier. I get the right size with a smooth transition forward, and a classy look. As previously stated, it's about preference
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A friend recently built this into a BFS and likes it: Rainshadow IMMWS72ML-TC Shad Raps / Lindy Rigging / Jigs / Slip Bobbers 7'2" 6-12lb. 1/8-3/8oz. 1 0.422 4.0 Fast 1.6oz. ML On sale at Get Bit now. You want a fairly light power for the BFS light lures. So that it loads well on the cast.
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