I believe that using regular wrap epoxy then a top coat of matte finish exterior polyurethan will do the job nicely. Don't use a product not called "exterior." Do a test wrap to see how it looks.
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I used to use Papilio media, and it was very good. I cannot find them now, maybe out of business. But do a search for decal media on Amazon and you'll find plenty of options. Unless you know something I don't, be prepared for big color changes when exposed to even reasonable amounts of UV/sunlight.
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Again, I'm with Mike Ballard.
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Those trying to print their own decals on inkjet printers should be aware that most if not all inks will not last very long in the sun without changing colors, some in a major fashion. I have been unable to identify any inkjet inks that claim UV resistance. Decal Connection products do not fade according to my experience with them for many years.
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I, like Norman, have found the Dr. Ph Martin Irridescent Calligraphy ink to be the best for this function. The burnishing of the pen nib as shown in the first video by Flex Coat is very important, too.
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It seems to me that the more sizes of reduction guides one adds, the closer he gets to doing a cone of flight setup. It also puts a little heavier guide out farther from the butt. Which directionally by itself is negative. I agree with Mike Ballard; I doubt if it's significant.
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Thanks, Tom. Now for your next assignment, how do you put pictures directly onto a post. I've been trying to figure it out for a long time.
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Tom, what do you seal them with?
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Grips can be any length you want them. I really like the design and length that St Croix used for so long, about 3 1/2-3 3/4 inches I believe, and slight tape from the rear to the front. This one works well for me, too:
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Not a problem, Gary. I assumed that. I'm just pointing out the different definitions and conflicting objectives that seem to be present. I really got confused and had to wonder if all were talking about the same "choke" guide. Even Fuji is inconsistent.
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I don't mean to be a problem, but I am really having a hard time understanding what's going on here: From the glossary: Choke Guide “Part of the "New Guide Concept System." The guide located at that point along the blank where a line drawn from the reel spool centerline will intersect the rod blank. “  From Norman: “based on the the Fuji publications and the KR GPS that the
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Sorry, I don't even know what the objective of a "taller choke guide" is, or what a "taller choke guide" is. Does this mean a 4 guide reduction train? 20H, 10H, 7M, 6L, then what? Which guide is the "taller choke guide?" Can you help me understand this? thx I agree that the bullseye is important, just don't think all these reduction guides make sense. I once
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Just place the reduction guides where the software says, then put the reduction guides where the stress test says, and go with it. All the test casting will not yield any measurable improvements. I don't test cast spin any more.
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I think we might gain some perspective on spine by considering that two of the most respected rodbuilding people have diverging opinions. One saying he will always build with the spine oriented "properly" and the other saying it doesn't make any difference. Do what you believe in.
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Don't take a flashlight when fishing. Seriously , You've done about all one can do. I would leave off the alcohol clean, and I blow softly on the surface of the pool of epoxy through a straw. My pool is in aluminum trays that I reuse with nothing more than a blow off to remove any dust that might have accumulated. I don't find any bubbles. But I don't look with a flashlight, either.
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Mine did not.
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HFF Custom Rods has lots of great quality burl cork rings at .68 each. I really like the River pattern, comes with a colored "binder" if you want. Classy, not gaudy. Burl is significantly heavier than regular cork, but is much more durable. I keep the weight down by using split grips on spin and use only 7 rings total for a ramp off the front (2) , back (2), (pipe style seat usually
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"El, So, you are saying if I built a rod out of bamboo, E glass, S glass, early generation carbon fiber, and X Ray material, as long as the IP and AA were identical you wouldn't care which one you used in your application? I was just saying I think there is more to it, and the high end option wouldn't always be my first choice." It is my opinion that if the IP, AA, AND TNF'S of the
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Maybe Herb Ladeheim will repeat his posting on how he does it with the line going through O rings and not the guides. I have not yet tried it but am going to on my next build. I think it might be the ultimate solution to placing guides properly with one line and having no problems with the guides moving, while allowing them to be moved as desired.
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The CRB devices that Al recommends work well for the smaller diameter areas of the blank-I often use two of them for each guide. Bigger O rings work well for the rest of the blank, or tape. But the biggest aid is to use the two line method for the stressing of the blank. This means that the guides will not be taking the load of the rod so will stay put better. They also can be moved without u
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You want a rod that has a lot of play, What is "play?"
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"Before you apply ANY finish to the wrap - place drops of finish at each tunnel opening. It will, over time - about 5 min - wick into the tunnels to the end of the guide foot. BUT - you must continue to place drops until fully wicked. " This is the technique I use for CP also.
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I believe, as in so many things about rod building, it depends on the minute details of execution whether a process will work or not. I personally think the risks of water intrusion are too great and have no problem with a little epoxy on the blank. On glossy blanks one cannot even see it.
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Re" I don't think I have ever seen a two line static test result in anything other than what turns out to be progressive spacing " I respectfully submit that you have not seen everything. It happens. Re the comment: "You would actually build something without a nicely progressive guide train that looks like it was born with a congenital birth defect or perhaps built by someo
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I'll bet Anglers Resource developed KR software after the guides were tooled and the existing guide heights resulted in the slight non-progressive spacing that shows up. Giving up a little "progressivity" to get the bullseye. If the guides were developed in conjunction with the software development I doubt if you would get the non-progressive spacing. But as stated before, it's rea
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Keep in mind that the reduction guides don't really get into the stress test for most blanks. Do the reduction guides exactly as the software says, then put the running guides in place according to the stress test, add one or so if you want, and you will have a great rod. Don't worry about "progression".
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I build exactly as the program specifies and the rods always work just fine. AND, I get the bullseye when sighting down the guides. The issue with non-progressive spacing is not one of function, but "form." The guides are so small you hardly can detect it anyway. It is my opinion that the issue stems from the heights of the respective guides. A slight adjustment of the heights wo
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If the power is actually Medium as most builders would define it, and the action is extra fast, the tip will be very flexible/light/responsive for feeling/seeing light bites.
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I have never used a 4 guide reduction. I just build to the KR software, don't test cast, and I always seem to be the longest caster in the boat. Unless my son is using one of my rods. I built one rod with a two guide reduction, and it works just fine , too. It's one of my son's favorite rods. He has never mentioned the strange guide setup.
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Ryan, sound logic. The rod will work fine.
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