Re" I don't think I have ever seen a two line static test result in anything other than what turns out to be progressive spacing " I respectfully submit that you have not seen everything. It happens. Re the comment: "You would actually build something without a nicely progressive guide train that looks like it was born with a congenital birth defect or perhaps built by someo
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I'll bet Anglers Resource developed KR software after the guides were tooled and the existing guide heights resulted in the slight non-progressive spacing that shows up. Giving up a little "progressivity" to get the bullseye. If the guides were developed in conjunction with the software development I doubt if you would get the non-progressive spacing. But as stated before, it's rea
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Keep in mind that the reduction guides don't really get into the stress test for most blanks. Do the reduction guides exactly as the software says, then put the running guides in place according to the stress test, add one or so if you want, and you will have a great rod. Don't worry about "progression".
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I build exactly as the program specifies and the rods always work just fine. AND, I get the bullseye when sighting down the guides. The issue with non-progressive spacing is not one of function, but "form." The guides are so small you hardly can detect it anyway. It is my opinion that the issue stems from the heights of the respective guides. A slight adjustment of the heights wo
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If the power is actually Medium as most builders would define it, and the action is extra fast, the tip will be very flexible/light/responsive for feeling/seeing light bites.
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I have never used a 4 guide reduction. I just build to the KR software, don't test cast, and I always seem to be the longest caster in the boat. Unless my son is using one of my rods. I built one rod with a two guide reduction, and it works just fine , too. It's one of my son's favorite rods. He has never mentioned the strange guide setup.
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Ryan, sound logic. The rod will work fine.
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Often when blank makers call their blanks "drop shot" they shift their calibration on the power description down, meaning that a medium power drop shot blank might be quite a bit less powerful than a medium power spin jig blank. I have a medium power drop shot blank that is more like a panfish rod. My "panfish" drop shot rod is not a Revelation or Bushido. I have no experi
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A good source of information also is the Library on this forum. Look up at the top, right side, click on the word "Library."
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Merry Christmas, Herb!
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Lots of good ideas!
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If you don't mind my asking, what is the span of your hand, with the hand spread, the distance from the tip of the thumb to the tip of the little finger? Mine is 9 inches.
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Neat! Didn't know that, thank you. However, having said that, I would rather do one wrap instead of two, and use CP to get a bright wrap and a lighter tip.
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However, if one wants bright, vibrant colors with regular thread, CP has to be used. At least I've never found a way to get a bright candy apple red without CP (assuming regular thread, which I like for its sheen.).
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If you like the result of the first one, do the rest too. Some builders never use CP. Sometimes you can get some really interesting colors by using regular thread and not using CP. If you want a ripe sweet cherry color, use regular merlot or garnet. Experiment, you may find some neat stuff.
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I personally like the sort of "floating" appearance of a decal over a base layer of epoxy. I've done it both ways.
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you will know when the grip is too small when you have hand pain after a long day with the rod in your hand.
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Yup, for both Android and Apple. Look where you get your apps. For me, it's pretty disappointing compared to the computer.
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Agree with Grant. I almost always use an extra guide or two. Works fine.
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Uplocking! Like it. Front "grip" because of its diameter is really a nice "ramp."
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I didn't say the work was haphazard or lacking. I generally agree with it. But not always because different jobs can have different criteria, and IMO cast and spin have different criteria. I also like my tack hammers to have a smaller handle than my framing hammers. And much smaller than my sledge hammer handle. They are doing different jobs. With the same hands.
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I knew you wouldn't like my opinion, Tom, but it is my opinion, my preference, and for UL rods, it works for me. I don't give ergonomics of this nature high priority when the stresses are such that ergonomics is not that important. When I start getting sore hands on my ultralights I'll go bigger. The guidelines are not infallible, either. Different techniques can have different ergonomic
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With UL rods the stresses on the hand are very low, and the importance of "fitting the hand" is less than with heavier action rods. I personally don't like the clunky look and feel of size 18's and 20's on delicate UL rods. UL's are where I get rid of the size 16 seats I bought before I turned to 17's on almost all my spin builds. They work fine there. I also prefer not to put a
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this kit will work just fine: $20 + shipping
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What does "power-finesse" mean?
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Agree with Spencer. Everything he said, but especially : never had a wrap failure using CP. We have a tendency to want the "strongest." But fail to consider that there very well may be a "strong enough" that is less strong than "strongest." With "strongest" may come some characteristics that one does not want. For example, a drastic color change in th
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Thanks for the report. So often advice is asked and given, but nothing comes back indicating how it all worked out. Thanks!
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If the mix is not coming out "clear," it is probably not thoroughly mixed. Also, syringes should be used or sooner or later the mix will be inexact in proportions and not cure properly, as Norman is implying. Also, take your epoxy from the middle of the puddle to prevent the possibility of getting some not quite mixed properly along the edges. All epoxies, properly mixed and cured, w
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I would not hesitate, either, except to try it out like Tom K suggests. If you are into CCS, do that too. Sort of like measuring twice, cutting once. But if you like what you get there is no reason that cutting 6 inches or twelve inches or 18 inches will cause a problem. I'm not in favor of starting kids with toy rods or things like ice rod blanks which are really not effective for most tec
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Another option to get some guidance in what cutting will do is to do the CCS process first with the whole blank, then mounted to simulate a cut from the butt, then with line attached back from the tip to simulate a cut from the tip.
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