It is more likely that F. L. O. (Flat Line Oscillation) explains a rod that does not track straight. You can easily find it on a fishing rod blank using the TNF process. Thank you David Taylor for introducing me to it.
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I guess it depends on one's definition of sleek. To me they still look cumbersome, thick, not in any way elegant or sleek as are many metal framed guides. But you are right, to each his own.
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PB701MF is one of my favorite rods. It has an ERN of about 20 which allows it to cast a wide range of lures and can handle good-sized fish well. I think the ML might be a little under-powered. I have not used the 7-3, preferring rods from 6-6 to 7-0. The PB701MF with a 3000 Daiwa Tatula is very light and well balanced. I use the same braid range you are considering. PB's generally have v
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I have seen the Zenaqs, still don't see a carbon fiber guide that I would like to use. thanks, though
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I have yet to see a composite guide that I think is attractive. They are all too bulky looking for my taste. Different strokes. . .
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Don't doubt the abilities of the human body to discern differences. But rely on science or measurement to try and prove the observations correct, as what we think or say we like is not always correct due to our inherent biases. Yes. To run TNF on a blank or rod takes seconds. With nothing more than your wrapping machine or other way to hold the butt and an Android device. (And a calculato
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NFC has some really sharp, nice, carbon fiber grip components. I just don't think there is anything nicer or lighter. If there is, it will be by an insignificant amount, IMO. The ESCM seat has an angle to the grip/seat arrangement. If you don't want that, the ACSM is straight, also is sized for the blank so no insert is needed. It's my fav. The gunmetal hood is really sharp.
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If you want to use guides other than the 20-10-5.5M that the software yields then I suggest you put the first one at 19 or 20 inches from the reel face, then arrange the others (like if you want to try the 25-12-5.5 or something close to the 5.5) then locate the second, third, and first running guide so that when you look down the guide train from the butt you see a "bullseye." With t
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You probably don't need to go as big as 25, but if you have one it certainly will work. I would try 25-12-5.5 with 5.5 runners.
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Your English is better than most or our Greek, so good for you!. I never use more than three reduction guides, and go right by the software at : I don't even test cast any more. Running guides should be placed by doing a stress test, and Fuji's stress test is at Run the software and see what it says, but it will likely recommend 25-12-5.5M. (maybe larger on the last one if you go with
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The swell is in the palm with fingers on the blank. I prefer the Fuji, others may prefer the Aero up-locking. If they try it . My ONLY point is that it is an option that can work.
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I would use that seat up locking since I wanted to try it that way. It causes no problems. It is not my favorite seat-I've only built one. But my issue with it is not its functionality- it's that in my opinion it's so ugly. I much prefer the Fuji DPSSD as mentioned earlier. I get the right size with a smooth transition forward, and a classy look. As previously stated, it's about preference
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A friend recently built this into a BFS and likes it: Rainshadow IMMWS72ML-TC Shad Raps / Lindy Rigging / Jigs / Slip Bobbers 7'2" 6-12lb. 1/8-3/8oz. 1 0.422 4.0 Fast 1.6oz. ML On sale at Get Bit now. You want a fairly light power for the BFS light lures. So that it loads well on the cast.
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fingers are not on the threads, but it does change the reel position. It's about preference and not an absolute " won't work".
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Before believing that all cork grips are lighter than all CF grips, weigh both materials of the same design and size.
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I guess I'll have to take my uplocking aero apart and turn it around. Sad. It was working very well. ( sarcasm alert!) A little different, but it can be done and it works well.
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You can build the Aero up-locking, too, and have the large "ramp" at the front and not have your hands on threads or other devices. I strongly prefer the Fuji DPPS size 17 uplocking with a ramp off the front that matches the diameter of the seat hood. Nice smooth transition to the blank.
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Tatula LT on sale at TW.
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Yes on the 3000 reel. The Daiwa 3000's are not that big. I use both the Tatula and Fuego in 3000 size, very light, both work very well. I don't know if there is a difference in their drags, but you want the best drag you can get. Regardless of what guide frame material you get, the rod and reel should be rinsed with fresh water immediately after every use in salt water. If you have to use
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Joseph, there is a feather section in the photos for examples of what others have done. Start simple, move up when you gain experience.
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I have that blank/rod in my pole barn, will do a measurement tomorrow and let you know.
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Here is a handy web site: The third entry down in the Library link at the top of this forum is a handy chart. You will find it here, too: If you decide to make a rig, and there are ways to do it that do not require the 4 x 8 sheet of pegboard, and want some tips, let me know. I check every blank that goes through my hands. It can also be done for finished rods, factory rods, a
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It looked like a KT to me. John, you are not talking about KB's are you? KT's don't have much of a bump. I just looked at some to refresh my memory and the KT's (size 4) have very little "shape" on a very small, short, foot. KB's have a longer foot with what I would call "barbs" that would seem to help prevent pulling out.
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Neither have I, but I did find one in my boat one time. Didn't come from one of my rods, but someone lost one. It's so easy and quick I don't see any reason not to do them.
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The stiffest axis is easily found and seems to me to be close to 180 from the weakest. Maybe 170.
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This blank is so straight that I don't recognize a "straightest axis."
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I agree with Roger. I used to use the short light power rods and after going longer have never gone back. Better casting, better handling of the fish, better hook sets.
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There is always a lot of discussion and debate about building on or off the spine and how it affects the finished rod. I checked a graphite 7.5 foot blank today and this is what I found. First of all finding the spine was a piece of cake, obvious without any special tool. THIS IS ONE BLANK. I DON'T ARGUE THAT THESE RESULTS WILL BE THE SAME FOR EVERY BLANK. But I do believe that they are a
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But if thinned tapered and thinned down will they be strong enough? Right now that looks like a pretty fat foot. To me doesn't matter since they are so obtrusive and unattractive, so won't use them. My mind would never let go. It's just me.
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You can try heat, might work, but often it doesn't since epoxy doesn't have a melting point-heat softens it and deteriorates it in time at temp, but might not work. I would not use any more heat than steam in order to not risk heat damaging the blank. Many builders remove seats by carefully cutting a longitudinal cut with a Dremel type tool, as you suggest, being careful not to penetrate to t
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