I've had a couple over my span as a rodbuilder. Small stuff like not mixing my epoxy long enough and it didn't cure, wrapped a couple guides too tight and cracked the blank under them. I finished a rod one time then realized that I forgot to put the nut and forward seat onto the reelseat before I assembled it all. Just last week I did this; I had been experimenting with an 8' heavy action 2 p
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Thanks Tom, the reelseats are too narrow. Guess I need to order a size 20. I guess this applies to any of the aluminum seats too?
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I’m feeling pretty stupid right now. How do you determine the size reelseat you need for the foot on a reel? I have a new Penn Spinfisher 6500 and the Fuji seat I bought is too small for the reelfoot. Pretty much every dimension I see seems to be ID and OD related. Thank you, Steve
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Couldn’t adapt a trolling “uni-butt without loosing too much length. Not sure what the ferrule measured, it’s all gone. Thanks for all that info Mark, ended up using some 6061. Would still like to know about that original 2pc system that was on this rod, never seen that before. Thank you, Steve
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<p>older folding stripper guide down</p>
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A friend brought me a roller rod to fix for him. It is 5' 8" long, 50-80lb rod with no other information on it except for a tail-walking billfish. The rod was built as a 2 pc rod with a threaded sleeve and ferrule set up above the foregrip splitting the rod exactly in half. The sleeve looks to be SS but it rusted underneath and split the sleeve up to the threads. I have not seen a sleeve
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Mark, I have worn many different sun glasses over my time fishing, cheap to expensive. Some of my favorites have been Hobie brand, Wiley X and Costa. Last year I got frustrated alternating between my prescription glasses and sunglasses when fishing so I invested in a pair of prescription Costa sunglasses. The frames look giant on me but when I bought them the lady helping me mentioned to ge
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If you can't find a foregrip with the dimensions you seek, buy a 2nd rear grip and cut it into a foregrip. Shape it as you desire and hold onto the unused pieces, you need them again sometime. Steve
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Way back when I was a kid, my dad had some old rods in the garage. One of them was a steel rod, possibly hex shaped, IDK. I remember it had a wooden rear grip, I'm pretty sure it replaced a cork grip that went bad. Many years later I went back looking for that rod and it was gone, unfortunately so was my dad. I can't recall anything about the guides. Mann I wish I had that rod. Steve
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You need to buy a sizing guide for tip tops. This will allow you to accurately measure the blank and buy the correct size all the time. It has been my experience to order a tip top a half size bigger than the blank measures, it works best for me. The specs for your blank state the tip measurement at 4.5, I would buy a 4.5 (1.8mm) tube tip top. Steve
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How hot do you think a rod or tip top gets sitting out in the sun all day? I am an archery nut and have been for years. Bohning Archery makes a hot melt glue for arrow tips called Ferr L Tite Cool Flex. It is designed specifically to be used with carbon arrow shafts and aluminum inserts. It requires a flame for installation but they say you can use hot water to adjust or remove the insert, me
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This is the first I am seeing anything about this material. I will agree it looks amazing. I've never done a wooden handle, aside from just refinishing one on an old boat rod. This would be a perfect compliment on a "special" rod for somebody. Thanks for sharing. Steve
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I'm headed to Florida for a couple days, I'll get serious with this thing when I get back home next Tuesday. Gonna try some steam and A/C before I cut anything off. If i could get it to spin where it sits I would leave it there but this thing is locked up. Thanks for all the input.
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I'd like to see it a little closer, maybe the front face isn't square? I'm seeing something "off" there, could just be a small radius in one area and not in another, IDK.
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Lance, I am familiar with the repair, I just can't get the blank loose to slide it back into the handle assembly.
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I tried dropping the rod as Chris mentioned, did not work. There is an aluminum winding check glued onto the blank that should be up against the reelseat, but it is about an inch away. This is what makes me think that the blank has migrated out of the handle assembly.
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A friend brought me a Shimano casting rod that he bass fishes with. He sad that the reelseat was spinning on the rod blank. After taking a look at it, I have determined that the whole handle assembly is one piece from the fore grip to the butt, and the rod blank has been fitted and glued inside the handle. The blank is spinning inside the handle for sure, and the blank has migrated out of the
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Alex, I have a bunch of different size aluminum arrow shafts that I use as arbors. The arrows have aluminum inserts in each end and I chuck over them, or just slip a center into them. I just pick one close to the size I need then add some tape to make it tight. I use this same method when making my foam cores for my home made carbon fiber handles.
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Herb (and everybody following), The guy lost the tip section of a 4 pc rod that was and Amazon brand rod, "Maxcatch". I was tasked with making him a new tip section for the rod and replacing the stripper guide that had dropped it's ceramic insert. I actually found a section of an old blank that I was able to make work but was struggling to match the guides on the rest of the rod (tha
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I don't like tape arbors. I had one fail on me and it's not gonna happen again. I feel like a custom rod with a $50 carbon fiber grip deserves a little more attention than this. All the skill going into the build and we're gonna short cut installing the handle? Aside from the weight factor, how much sensitivity is lost between the blank and grip/handle/reelseat with a soft tape arbor and a bun
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I like to get the bore of the grip to size first, then put it on an arbor in the lathe and shape the OD as needed. Steve
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I guess my original post wasn't exactly clear, I am struggling to figure out what brand guides are on the rod I am repairing. Once I figure that out I can try and narrow down what size the guides are. The rod is a "Maxcatch" Extreme fly rod, it is sold thru Amazon. They look very similar to the Pac bay guides I see, I'm going to go with them.
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I am really struggling trying to figure out what size guides I need to order for a fly rod I am repairing. I think they are either REC or Pac Bay brand guides but I can't find a chart anywhere referencing the guide measurements for me to compare. The wire of the doublefoot guides measures .762mm. The overall length foot to foot is 28mm. The height from the top of the blank to the inside edge
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I get it Fred, if you are going to standardize anything, I feel like it should be the inside diameter. No matter what the ring material is, make the I.D. the same and let the O.D. vary.
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I know Phil Ewanicki keeps asking these same questions but maybe we should cut him a little slack. If he was 20 when he bought a blank in 1956 he is 86 now, I hope I can still see good enough and am able to work with my hands when I'm 86. I'm only 60 and I am already forgetting things and losing my eyesight. And I have tried to live solely on products Made In The U.S.A. It's tough, but not
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I have used my Dream Reamers for small adjustments to the reelseats like you are using with success. You may end up with a small burr that needs to be removed but it works for me.
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Sammy (OP) should be able to settle it pretty quick by telling us the rod length?
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Yes, I know. I was looking thru all the sponsors, they had some interesting things and I placed an order. It's already shipped, can't wait to get it.
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