Its a clear decal with the Rainshadow info. on it.
Forum: rodboard

I have a Rainshadow decal. Should I give it a coat of thread preserver before coating ? thanks
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Im looking for a way to sign and give information about the rod. Ive tried thr Pilot fine tip pens . Colors are limited to Gold and Silver. Would like to find permenate markers that has different colors to match the guide wraps. Im open to all suggestions.
Forum: rodboard

Building this rainshadow for my son , He lives in Oregon. He likes the switch rod because versality. Fishes all styles of line the Skagit, Scandi and conventional types. I want to keep the rod as light as possible but am concerned about the line hanging up using 6 ring guides as running guides. I know that he uses a loop to loop system. Will 6's do it or should I go to 7's ?
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Would like to try some Madeira is the polyneon the only one recommended for rod building?
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Memories from the past 1970's .My first surf rod . Great rod.
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I just purchased some manima guides xf4xgo8 the ring is the usual style but the foot is countoured like the tf3xgo8 . I called Pacbay and there was no one to help me. did a search but didnt come up with anything explaning whether they have changed the style. Did they? I find it very difficult to wrap a wide foot guide on a slim 3 or 4 wt fly rod (top section) thanks
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Thanks Terry, that flat position of the first section of the rod then progressing to the next section was very informative.Just what I needed
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Im looking to stick with the method Tom described looking for a starting point in degrees
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Ive been using this test as Tom described in his book. I have a problem in knowing how much should I bend the rod in the first section . Bend the rod 10 degrees everything looks fine, bend it 30 degrees and you may see flat spots develope. Can you give me an approximate degree of bend in the first section? I can figure out the rest. thanks
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what is the longest time you can wait between coats?
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Placed one coat of Threadmaster on its been 48 hours can I add another coat or should I scuff the primary coat before recoating thanks
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Thanks for all your help guys. Tom did my due diligence before posting I did read it I cant believe I did it.
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Made a mistake , I read where Rod Bond could be cleaned with water Clean up with epoxies is better with alcohol.Dont know what I was thinking.
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Im disapointed in the out come of some cork handles I applied. Im always getting a little glue or something else on them during application. This time I applied saran wrap. Every thing was fine but had to clean the small seams around the reel seat where it meets the cork. I wiped i the Rod Bond with a clean rag then wiped all with water around the cork etc. Of course the cork got wet and change
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Here is the reply from Scott Its always best to allow the CP to dry overnight. I don't recommend using a hair dryer to try to speed the process up. Best to go without or use Colorlok thread if in a pinch. Thanks Scott Parsons
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Can you bond metal to metal with Rod Bond? Called the Trondak U40 office .Person said he was quit sure you could but suggested I run it pas the RodBuilding Forum.
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Have a person who wants a few guides changed and need the rod as soon as possible. I use chromaseal usually 2 coats Can I apply a coat and very gently blow dry, then add another coat and blow dry again Whats the earliest time before I can put the Flex Coat on. Thanks
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I agree with you Herb and intend on doing so plus test casting just wanted a starting point . For a 7 wt line I was thinking of the guide closest to the reel being a 16 or do you think 20 ?
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Building a 12 ft switch rod It would save me some time if someone has guide spacing recommendations just as a starting spot. Tom mentioned the distances of the stripping guides from the butt . Ive misplaced that info it would be helpful thankyou
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all ferrels were wraped ,to my knowledge it has never been crushed, cant photo right now perhaps in a few days.Static distrib. of guides were used. I have been told that a loose farrel joint will cause splitting.
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If you call Batson there are people that will give you the spacing for that rod. Its on the net but I dont remember the exact spot I saw it
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Built the Quickline switch rod , best rod Ive ever handled. After a hard days fishing and catching 2 to 3 lb. fish. I was taking my last when the second section exactly on the female ferrel joint, split and continued for abt 7 inches. First time this has ever hapened.If its operator caused I accept full responsibility but want to know what I did wrong , any suggestions? Im sending the rod back
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often wondered about this topic If you blow dry the CP dry to touch and do it 2x how long after can you start to finish coat ?
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The section where the foot of the guide is attached to the ring. Getting around this corner and laying a straight line has been a problem. I've tried Tom,s technique with mixed results and several of my own inventions. Most promising was the high speed rotation,but it also coats a good portion of the guide too.Always open for constructive criticism .
Forum: rodboard

If you apply the cp generously,soak the threads and remove all visible remnants of the cp from the threads ,is it necessary to rotate the rod?
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My apologies its my mistake sorry abt all this
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Hi Joe . Its not the reduction guides that gave me the problem. Its the running guides that were way too many for the rod. Not unless I measured wrong. I checked both in inches and in metric several times. My question to Tom was how he arrrived at the new calculations so I can learn from my mistakes. I agree with your reply thanks
Forum: rodboard

Tom did I do the math wrong? How did you come up with the new calculations? I would like to learn how to do it with out bothering you. Im going to run into the same problem with a Rainshadow xst 1143 Using the same reel and probably the same handle Any suggestions on this one ? thanks for your help
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length of handle to the front of reel seat 10 3/4 inches diameter of spool 2 inches thanks
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