thanks for advice I also thought of a stencil.
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OK Ive tried all suggestions on decals. At the present time Im using transparent tape and want to write on the tape.I need to know what size nib you suggest and the inks that will write on the tape. What I would like to do is match the ink with the color of the wrappings .Am I pushing the envelope tooooo far?
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before applying the next coat warm the finish up with a hair dryer, your applications will flow better and it decreases the down time after recoating.You will also have less bubbles in your mix. The down side , it dries faster and may limit the amt of guides you can do. I think with tacky you can recoat.
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Your are the best, Tom
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In shipping a fly rod, the bottom section of the tip top broke. Even though the model has been discontinued, Batson was able to find a top section.The male section of the second piece slides into the female about an inch. Is that far enough? If not, Ive heard of waxing and someone told me to sand the male down, what is your opinion?Its made for a 4wt line the tip is 33 inches. thanks
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Thanks Roger I'll work on that. I'm open to all suggestions.
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correct Phil that is the purpose of the unibit to make that tit to fit the forestner bit into.
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Ive made the inserts thats my problem.
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Made some fly rod inserts and saved the drilling till last . Big mistake , With no other tools than a drill press and a lathe that does not have the proper accessories for drilling, Im stumped. Ive tried the forestner drill and several wood drills with some success but not good enough.In goto search there is a suggestion to use a unibit as a center drill then ream out the center to fit a forestn
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Occasionally as luck would have it I come up short a tip top. You know, "Im sure had one, where did I put it"? I use one that I have thats the the closest to the match. Then, when my order comes in I change. I live on an Island and some times parts are slow to come. You guys are great thanks for the suggestions.
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Roger, your right most of the time . Occasionally I'll get a rod that does not fell just right, if I have built it on the cocave side I'll switch it to the concex. Its a very different rod.How about the name of the adhesive you use? Ive tried Fugi but heard that in hot weather the tip will loosen. Thanks for the advice.
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I always test cast my rods before finishing. When it comes to the tiptop I use 5min epoxy. If not satisfied with the set up, I reheat the tip and change position. Am I compromising the glue by reheating?
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Good idea Bill I'll try it. thanks
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John, Will the oil also seal the cork and act as the U40 cork seal?
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John, Will the oil also seal the cork and act as the U40 cork seal?
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A light thread finish will give it a golden look Bill are you saying to wrap the cork with cork?
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Want to darken some cork handles what do you suggest? Tried the U40 product
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Im in the same position .I bought a pen , Testors and a number 6 nib which is very fine . Have not had time to play. I understand there is a coating over the nib that has to be taken off before use?
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thank you for those great ideas
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Have this blank XF864-4M . Would trimming 6 inches off the butt make that much difference ? The rod is graded as extra fast action.I am aware what happens to rods that are trimed, but because of the taper and fast tip would it alter the action that much? thanks
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What are your opinions on adding additives to finishes? I have done it in the past, adding acetone to flexcoat. I observed that the finish had small cracks after using the rod a few times. It might have been my fault I always use as little finish as possible ,perhaps not allpying enough to cover sufficently?Are there is the long term effects such as yellowing or brittleness of the wrapping compa
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Have the skeleton pieces and the wood section for my reel seat . Im going to sand the the wood down then marble .My concern is that I will add too much finish to the wood. If this happens I will not be able to slide the foot of the reel into front receiver.Have any suggestions? This is for a fly rod.
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Tom would you suggest the best clear tape you have used?
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Roger thank you for that reply But at 80years old I think a flat surface would better. Tom would you tell me what brands of clear tape you would suggest.
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Has anyone tried writing on a plain transparent decal and transfering it to the rod?
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I use a hair dryer they are cheap can be bought in thrift shops , keep mine in my rod room Takes less than 15 sec. and can be reheated again when mixed . No bubbles, I like loose .It does not last long but it cures faster for a second coat.
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For reamers I buy used golf club handles the graphite ones (thrift shop) they are very sturdy and can be chucked . Last time I used 5 min. epoxy . Took a rubber band and secured the top of the sand paper strip spiralled down and held the end for a few moments. I used it with in 15 min with out a problem and have used it several times after. For smaller reamers I save the left over rods and scrap
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Thank you I got it now, thanks for the replys . I will give them all a try!
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Im sorry I dont understand this, Then set it in the uprights of the reel foot that you have on the rod. thanks
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My eyes are not as good as they use to be . Having trouble sighting down the rod. I was thinking of a lazer. Would like to know if anyone has had experience with them. I'm open to all suggestions. Thanks
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