Bend strength is important also. Regardless of the metal selected, designers have to ensure the metal and design is capable of handling the bend from the foot to the neck. I've had quite a few production rods (all the same brand with same guides) that were only used in freshwater come in the shop lately where the guide was sheered off right at that bend. Foot still in the wrap and 100% in pla
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those rock... but they don't fit all boats. Requires the right type of rear deck hatches.
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Mike Sledden Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > For the co-angler, there are rod covers that you > can get that actually have a piece that goes over > the reel to hold the cover in place. The only > thing these are a nylon material and not the same > thing that the Stick Jackets are made of. The > part that goes over the reel is just a cord
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Even with a foot or two - it's still a pain to get them off and not destroy your fishing time. Not to mention I can only imagine having a bunch of tubes laying all over the boat while the boater is sitting looking at you saying "time to roll". Anything over the tips - say a foot or two - is also going to blow off at 70mph. I've had whole stick jackets blow off while in the coangler s
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That's another good reason for conventional builds. But we all know I'm not a fan of spiral wraps on bass rods though. Micros going in tubes are a huge improvement over size 6 and larger. Where would you use a double foot micro? All the way up? Congrats on the checks!
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Do Pfluegers and Bass Pro reels wiggle in the seats like on the full version?
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There's definitely a bias that appears when folks start talking about selling rods in stores... for everyone who said it didn't work... answer this (out of curiosity) - let's throw repair stuff out the door and talk selling rods... Did you require payment upfront (or on terms) for the rods you placed in the store or did you put them there on a consignment basis? I know if I had your rod in
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I think you have some heavy questions to answer for yourself but this can be very profitable if done correctly. Things related to assembly, components, profit points, marketing, etc. Every production rod company out there started from zero at some point and ended up in stores at some point. If your plan is solid, go for it. You have to adjust your mindset to be prepared for a different type
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edit - thx for clarification...
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Roger - Please answer your last "inquiry" before we start yet another =
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My answer to this would have been "Sure can - let's get together." because Jim hit the nail on the head. It's that simple most of the time. No reason to be intimidated.
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Seen a couple posts lately about abalone veneers. So figure I would post my results experienced last week.. Now keep in mind I am a plain jane rod guy... RARELY do I do anything "artistic". But the new stuff from Angler's Envy is INCREDIBLE in application ease and appearance. I used the old stuff with the vinegar soak, and had ok results. This stuff... wow... I had the application
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I'm still focused on the data regarding why you feel a "large" tip top is more durable than a micro top and what test results you have that prove that opinion. Maybe solve one thing before we move on to the next?
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If you want the easy one stop shop... And the instructions to match...
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Roger - We aren't talking casting results. We're talking durability based on your original comment " A conventional tip is also tougher and holds up to stress better and getting banged around" and now "the durablity of the larger tip". How is a micro tip less durable than a larger tip? Or phrased opposite - How is a conventional tip more durable than a micro tip? If y
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Roger, Yes I do. I'd really like to see the testing results to compare notes. Show your cards and I will show some of the labratory results I have as well.
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- A conventional tip is also tougher and holds > up to stress better and getting banged around. > > Take care > Roger What data do you have to support this as a fact?
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One of the few decorative things I offer at times is the abalone from Angler's Envy. Kevin pioneered the application and has listened to what folks have said and continued to look for the best product available for this technique. The new stuff is awesome. No it's not cheap, but if you can do it without messing up that's a no brainer in my book!
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Milt - yes 100% you can feel the difference. Granted my senses are more attuned, but I can usually tell a half ounce difference in a rig when I pick them up. My typical custom 7' "Heavy power" bass rod weighs 4 oz or slightly under. My production version weighs .2 oz more on average. Granted I use proprietary blanks, but there are plenty of offerings out there that would help you
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I use a 10/0 flat shader brush, high build epoxy put on thin, at about 200 rpms. It goes straight on the dryer afterwards with no sitting because I crank out 3 - 4 rods per batch of finish. If the finish gets in the guide ring, I stick an alcohol moistened piece of paper towel twisted into a point through the ring. Done. It's not difficult. I do find the smaller brush just makes it easier
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this helps too... especially sitting at the boat landing parking lot... a one time $90 investment. dirt cheap in the advertising world. And then you make extra stickers and hand them out to customers (or even sell them) who will gladly put them on their cars and boats... $2.50 investment per sticker... I've had customers come back to me saying they made a new friend at the landing because
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Thanks Billy - Wondered what you meant - There are plenty of folks, including myself, that hold that title based on what you said - just never saw anyone use it. Works for me!
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Billy - not busting on you - want to clarify - what you mean by a "pro rod builder"?
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How long of sections are you looking for?
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Might be a good start for you.
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eva or cork?
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Micros on top. As many as you need based on testing - buy twelve and hold on to extras for repairs. Your question can't be answered without knowing reel position, blank model and guide model/sizes you are using.
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have him measure from elbow to wrist. Add a half inch (which could be the butt cap) and there is your handle for it to be comfortable for him. if he also wants comfort, loose the ACS and use an ECS.
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Are you just expressing your opinions or looking to spur debate?
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