email Jim Gamble. Do a search for his name and you can find his info on here. I'd email it but yours is hidden, which is going to stop you from getting some dealer leads.
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NCP? Nylon? Did you use CP? Is there epoxy penetration under the wraps?
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I ream EVA handles on a daily basis. Several things you can do - you can impact the firmness sometimes by reaming more or less, you can also reduce weight by reaming also. I usually ream mine to the same place I would cork - maybe a 1/4" higher just so when I slide it down it has a nice snug fit and there are no gaps on the internal bore on either end. EVA reams so easily, I personall
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if it's easy to get - thanks! I've seen the weights on the Vendettas and not been impressed. Of course those are only $80... LOL
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Rolly - since you have it on hand, can you list the model and the weight? I like to keep track of these things.
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Nothing. No winding checks either. I violate that though because I like to put my label in the split. I still won't finish the entire section though. No reason to add extra if not needed.
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give it a whirl. Only time I saw issues was on a cast... never on retrieve. You ought to be in good shape.
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Hmm... A rodbuilder suggesting to use the guide as a hookkeeper? GASP!!! LOL I've tried it and the line gets hung up a lot in that location. That was with other styles, but even with a folding HK, it can still get hung up.
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Helpful discussions:
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So Factory A, B or C? Roll the dice on that one. (If you read their blog post from December, you will understand)
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Ones they have made in China.
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JP did the hoods on seat with the hydro printing at the ICRBE seminar and they looked VERY sharp.
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Specific questions you need to ask: Were these the original Heliums? (Since you said Helium I) What was the date of manufacture? Where were they manufactured? I'll give you a hand with the info you find out. Hate to see someone waste $ even if it's for personal use.
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I've had trouble with Ardent baitcasters not fitting well in the casting seat version.
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I just flew to Mexico for a week. Took six 7' rods. Cost $27 each way because I checked two bags. On our flight the first bag was free. Not all are that way.
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Still available -
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MP - Nice job on 2nd place!
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To Steve's point - I had one customer who two handed casted like a baseball bat... hands together right behind the reel. Full grip was better for him.
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Nice explanation Bob. I could have never explained it that well. Roger - On your earlier post you said "I think that for many folks, this is a Phase that rods are currently going through" At what point is it no longer considered a phase? That article I mentioned was written 10+ years ago. I do think you see a decortive emphasis on the split grip right now - shapes, trim ring
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Don't confuse split grips and split reel seats. I'm seeing a bit of both. "Advantages of the Split-Grip" - Rodmaker Vol 4, Issue 4, Page 10 - uses less cork - save $ - place for decals, hookkeepers, and for you decorative types - thread wraps - positions off hand better for two handed casts - works as a fighting butt - provides for more casting control when using two hands
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Lane - drop me an email once you try that out. I'm real interested in the results. My biggest issue right now is somewhere to set that up. My shop is pretty much full.
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Kevin - how long is the entire rod?
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Thanks. No bubbles. I work in 70 - 80 deg temps. I found the ridges from vac bags really aggravating. The vacuum system should be best because all air is removed. I didn't want to invest in a real vac system though. I prefer mandrels because when I coat the ends of the grip, they don't stick to a waxed mandrel as much. Dowels would give some cheaper size options though. I also don't push
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I tried the food vacuum seal method as well - but really wasn't happy with the result. I think the shrink tubing gives a better result. I don't use that either though. Here's what I've been doing for the last year or more... - Turn your core to the shape - Slide core on waxed mandrel, slide on fiber and zip tie ends - but them up very tight to get your contours. you also want the fiber VER
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That's the new Fuji SK2 Split Seat seat.
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Mike - it's because of your line path - watch the angle your line takes out of the reel and down the rod. You'll see it.
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Should work fine.
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Keep in mind this example - retail cost of components (closest I can find available) for one of the rods mentioned in the original post: 4C70MHF $165.00 Fuji ECS $3.65 split grip $9.20 Fuji Tip $3.09 Fuji guides $15.60 Hookkeeper $0.75 Shipping $20.00 Winding check $2.59 Misc (thread, etc) $5.00 $224.88 Labor $25 $249.88 The same rod - the LTBC70MHF - retai
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Am I understanding this as you have never built a rod before? If so, I would buy an inexpensive blank, inexpensive guides, and learn how to build a rod first because more than likely you will make some mistakes. Once you feel confident with building, then start really going after your new arsenal. Promise you will learn a few things along the way that will change your idea on what blanks you want
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He'll have them.
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