Look at the options tool bar below your post. You can follow the thread of any topic you are interested in.
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Mike; RodMaker Vol. 6 Issue 5 has pictures and an explination of how to set up a color change weave.
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OK Mike I did it... Jim
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Michael; I haven't recieved my copy of RodMaker yet so I'm not up on the article. However, I've been molding Thumb sleeves for bowling balls for years and the process can't be that different. Try taking a piece of PVC tubing with an ID the size you want for your OD and a little longer than the finished piece you want and spray the inside with mold release (you might try Pam or some other "
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Stan; I'll repeat one of the things I said above and that is, if you didn't align your letters on the pattern to the center thread (the center design thread is the center thread for each of the letters) and then align that to the axis you are weaving on the letters will appear to run down to the right. The rod taper really makes it worse.
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Stan; Look at the thread below by John Dunaway titled "Straight Weaving" The other thing you need to keep in mind is how you align your letters. If you are using pcstitch always align to the center not the left margin (if you don't know how to do that call me, I'll walk you through it) otherwise your letters will appear to run off to the side. Your tension is ok. Are you aligning t
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John; I wouldn't change the loom position as long as it hasn't shifted on the blank. If you set up properly the design center thread should be running right down the center of the axis you are weaving on. You don't want to change that. You only need about 6oz of tension so if you are using more than that you might try backing off a bit. I think you will find that you just aren't used to corr
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John; If the wrapping thread is coming up in front and pulling the design threads down as you weave you will have to watch them very closely to be sure they stay up where they should when you bring them back to the right. This is especially true where long threads are being brought back to the right. Blank taper may also have something to do with what you are seeing. Without a picture of your
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Get Doc Ski's video or CD. It will take you through a Tuna weave (both silhouette and color change) step by step. Tom Kirkman's Rod Building Guide, will give you a step by step with photographs for a basic Diamond wrap. My articles in RodMaker magazine will also give you a how to on both silhouette and Color Change weaving.
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The 665 is a live bait blank rated at 20 (30) 50. The EX designation Is a new one on me so can't help you there. You might give Seeker a call and get the info from them. The 665 blanks run from 665 L 20 (25) 40 through 665 XH 40 (60) 100. All are listed as fast action live bait sticks.
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Why not put your trim bands on for the weave then wrap the buggered area with the appropriate color of green wide enough to cover , add more trim bands and use the area between the bands for your inscription or decal.
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Matt; As Tom says put it where it needs to be. You really need to mock up the rod in the Rod Belt or Harness you intend to use. The position will be different if you are using a Fighting Chair so go sit in one and see what position is most comfortable. A rule of thumb for a stand up rod is to set the middle of the reel seat to the Butt the measured length from your elbow to the end of you
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After the first month you'll wonder how you ever had time to go to work.
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Jason; Your E-Mail address is hidden so I can't send you an E-Mail to explain your problems. First of all I need to know the distance you are using from the weave to the right side wheel and then the distance from the left side wheel to the weave. If the right side is too close you get a spreading effect and it will lift the wrapping thread allowing threads to cross over each other as they
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Jim; Why don't you give Randy at Seeker a call and see how they ship them. He might even ship them for you...For a price of course.
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I'll add my Congratulations as well. I still can't figure out when you take the time to eat and sleep.
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Call and let me know when. Jim
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Call Trish Clement , at Madeira USA. The number is; 1-800-225-3001 Ext. 116. Tell her I told you to call. Just be aware that your shipping costs are around $10.00 so if you order only two or three spools of thread it will cost more than the thread. You do need to know what you want so I would recommend getting the thread color chart first or get the thread numbers from the Madeira USA web
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Don't get me wrong there is nothing wrong with using a Left List and it's sure a better way to share a pattern than having to send out a 3' X 5' pattern. However errors creep into left lists and when they do you really don't know if you made the mistake while weaving or it was in the list. Also if you want to make a change in the pattern it's a cinch to do with white out and a pen on the patte
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Kerry is giving you good advice. Learn to work off the Pattern (graph) instead of a left list. Each vertical column on the graph represents one complete revolution of the rod. Each horizontal row represents a design thread. All of the threads that show in a column go to the left all the rest are to the right. After you move the indicated threads to the left, or if they no longer show in the
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I use short pieces of blank to do my test weaves on. I can then finish them and keep them for display if they turn out, like the Dragon Head. If they don't turn out I just cut them off and try again but it hasn't caused a problem with getting a rod done on time for someone else because now I do practice weaves on my travel lathe so I'm not tying up the bench lathe.
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Phil; I've never had a weave take that long before but do have one guy that wants a rod as a collectors piece. He really doesn't care how long it takes to get it and doesn't seem worried about what it will cost. But that was before the 90 hour job. My feeling is that most rods done on that level will be few and far between. However having said that there are plenty of people around that can a
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Tom; One of the nice things about a slightly out of focus picture is that you can't see the mistakes. I will try but can't promise anything. I'm not proficient with photo shop. Jim
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Yes Gary, it was done with the Wonder Weaver. That however is not an excuse because you could do the same thing with another type of weaving jig. The difference here is in the pattern and how it is developed not the tool. So get with it , we need the help to push the envelope. Jim
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Thank you all for your compliments and exclamations. Some even made me laugh and that's a good thing. The weave is a test weave to try out a method for developing patterns. It was also an exorcise in integrating the Wrapping (background) thread into the the pattern. As Billy has told you it took about 90 hours to complete (but then I'm old and only have one good eye) not including the time it
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Polyneon is what you want. The #40. Jim
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When you open the photo page window the next thing to the left of "Log out" on the tool bar should be "upload photos".
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Mick; That's one of the best compliments I've ever recieved. One of the most satisfying things about doing what we do is having our peer group appreciate our work. Seeing the work of others is what drives you to do better and even push the envelope now and then. Seeing the work of those that you have helped reach the same level is even better. I get great pleasure in providing anyone, th
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Tension on the wrapping thread causes the thread to be thinner. As I recall it was about 8%. One way to keep that from distorting the pattern is to use a wrapping thread at least one size larger. Some patterns are designed to use a wrapping thread of the same size and others correct the distortion by adding wraps in the pattern at specific points. That's one of the reasons we do test weaves o
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Phil; Those are Madeira Poloyneon #40 for the design threads and Gudebrod "C" for the wrapping thread. I'll try and post a couple of pictures to the photo page that will give a better representation of the colors. Yes, I use Color Preserver. In this case I think I used Glass Coat. Jim
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