Try Doc Ski or Mark Crouse for a pattern. If you have never done a weave before I would suggest that you stick with a silhouette unless you have the time to do it over if you don't like it the first time out.
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Thanx for the update, Bob. You can count me in on the next one as well. Jim
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There are cross wraps (diamond wraps I think) that are pre done like the Chinese finger cuffs. However if you want one of the more intricant designs you would have to learn how to do cross wraps. There are no pre woven patterns that I am aware of so you would have to learn how to weave if that's what you want.
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Kenny;' If you mean that you are cleaning the excess off the blank to leave a nice clean edge next to your wraps the answer is no it won't hurt the Permaglos.
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Two things right off the bat. Make your pattern cross the blank at about a 45 degree angle. That way your pattern doesn't become rod specific. Another way of saying it is that you do not create a circle where both ends have to meet. The other thing is to be sure that the pattern and blank circumference will require 180 or less design threads. If you need more you will have to E-Mail me and I
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You may want to check that out carefully. That type of motor isn't designed to run for long periods of time and may overheat.
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Do a search on "pcstitch" You'll get a lot of info. Or wait until Dave Boyle has Visual Weave on the market.
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That's really disturbing. I usually do not send unsolicited E-Mail however on occasion send it because my answer to a board question is either too Long or repetitive. The subject line will parrot the question title or make the subject clear. I have my spam blocker set on high so if I don't recognize a name and no request to be added to my address list has been sent I delete them all.
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Ed; I'm guessing but it sounds to me as though you made your Cross Wraps with a lot of tension. the thread keeps pulling because it has been stretched. I had this happen on one of mine that I did many years ago. I filled the gaps with some colored nylon cord available from hardware stores and put more finish over it.
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You may have to cut both the cork and EVA grips and combine them to make what you are looking for. Try it, it's fun to do and you can make anything you want.
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Hiro Tanaka will be doing the guide wraps on the Steelhead rod.
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Joe; I put a coat of finish between the first and second guide wrap, CP also if required. You might get away with just the CP, but then I'm really not in a hurry. You can also go up one size with your thread. For example underwrap first with "A" and next with "C" over it.
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Try a local Embroidery shop. Be sure to ask for Polyneon.
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I don't think so. #40 and a limited number of colors in #60 is all that I am aware of.
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I think I would opt for Hypolon rear and fore grips and ceramic guides. I would also spiral wrap the guides. If you really want the roller guides use the @#$%& Acid Roller Guides. You need to decide if you intend to use the rod on the rail (West Coast style) also. If you do you may want a little longer fore grip. As Tom stated the fit when you are using a harness is important so you need t
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Polyneon #40 is fine. You do need to use color preserver. I use two or three coats of Gudebrod 811.
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Steve; Three things you might try. 1. Depending on the type of label you are using you might try covering it with Color Preserver before you put on the finish. Be sure to let the CP dry. 2. You may be getting too much finish piled up in that area in an attempt to get it to cover. So watch for the drip and remove the excess. 3. Try turning the rod by hand for at least the first hour to hou
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I use two or three and then a coat of Permagloss. I allow an overnight dry time for all three before putting on the finish coats of Flex Coat.
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Italo; The guides will come with instructions for mounting, however the placement of the stripper and the transition guide is critical. You need to have the reel that you will use on that rod. I found that reel width makes a big difference in how you place the first and second guide. You must locate them and test the location when the rod is under stress. When you do that put the line as fa
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Cover the Label with Color Preserver first .
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Mike; You can use a set of Pac Bay's hialoy guides to find out just what you need and keep them on hand just for that purpose. Then order the others. If you don't have that much time I usually use a 20 stripper located on the ferrule (of the two piece blanks) then a 12 ,10, 8, and four or five 6's to a 6 tip top.
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Doc; They usually don't show up here until the end of the month. Jim
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Just a thought here. You might think about using Permagloss for that first coat. It penetrates very well and the nice thing is it's dry in 2 hours. Then go ahead and use your High build over that the next day.
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I would take a look at the Seeker Ulua blanks. I don't have a catalog here in front of me or I would give you some numbers.
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David your E-Mail address is hidden. No one will be able to contact you.
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What Randy is telling you is true in a nutshell. However I would recommend that to get a better picture you take more than just two shots. Don't rotate the rod 180 degrees, go maybe 45 degrees you will get a better picture when you assemble them. If you have Adobe photoshop Elements with the photomerge option you can then merge these pictures to get the best representation of your weave.
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Most beginners looms will let you weave up to about 100 threads but are sold in different sizes (thread counts). Depending upon what you want to be able to do you might take a look at the Wonder Weaver. It will handle up to 180 threads and will let you weave on any axis of the rod or on as many as you have room for. You could weave four separate patterns at once if you wished and had sufficien
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Doc Ski just posted a Wahoo in action. It's probably on the second page in the thread art gallery. He also has many other patterns including A Yellowtail in action.
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Doc is correct in that the pictures are put up on this site to inspire others to reach a higher level. Never to intimidate. There are many really excellent Artists and Craftsmen in the rod building arena and many may not have the time nor inclination to display their work. Mark Crouse is to me a truly talented rod builder as are Hiro and Doc. Each have a little different approach an
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Doc Ski has all kinds of patterns. If he's not fishing he'll probably answer this thread.
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