John, If it's a casting rod it looks about 2 sizes to big on all the guides. I'd start with a spacing of 4.5, 9.5,15, 21, 28, 36, 45.5, 57" than static test it as per the library article above. I'd use a #16 high frame, 12 low frame, 10, 8, than 8 or 7s out to the tip. Just a guess as I don't know what size reel is going on it, 20 lb line is no problem.
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Jim, I don't think the guides are your problem, I have 35 lb Tuf-line Plus on one of my that's been in use since 1992-93 whenever they started selling the stuff, been on lots or rods and caught lots of fish, and it got a little fuzzy than quit, the business end near the fish is the only part that's needed my concern. I've not had problems with any of my guides either.
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Permagloss urethane is much more resistant to abrasion, etc. that epoxies. Downside is that it's thin and takes lots of coats to get the smooth look, and even than I don't think it's as glass smooth as epoxy. That said I've used it a lot on my own personal rods, or rods I'm trying to build more "Old School" for older customers that still use the old Pfleuger Rocket knuckle busters.
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Levi, Check out the stuff at REC if you want some spinning reel seats that are a little different.
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Levi, Check out the stuff at REC if you want some spinning reel seats that are a little different.
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Match it how?
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Sounds like you have good selection of rods, so I'd build one in the weight/action of your "Go To" rod, I'd recommend a Dan Craft blank. Dan's a great guy and an experienced angler and builder, he'll help you select the blank and components you need and help answer all your questions.
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It's a great rod wrapper, but it's not necessary unless you're going to build a lot of saltwater rods with lots of underwraps. Starting out simple with a hand wrapper is the best way to start I think. Many of us have been building rods for many years by hand. Spend the money on the important stuff first, components and fit & finish are more important when you start out. You'll get better,
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I'd go with the 16 mm seat, it will fit the reel foot better and be also closer to the correct length thread wise.
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As Eric said, when I talked to them at a sportsman show last year, they have a hard enough time keeping up with production requirements, till that slows down they have no interest in selling blanks.
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The Forecast F764-4 4 wt fly blank make an awfully nice travel rod. Fast tipped blank for a fly rod. Most of the longer travel rods I've made are more prone to lop casts and not near as efficient at keeping the casts low, picking a stream and its structure apart as the shorter rods. Also some of the sponsors make 3 piece shorter travel blanks that would be about the same length broke down.
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Spence, G Loomis makes lots of salmon/steelhead and hot shot rods that are 8 ft 6 in long in GL2. If that's what you need I can help or you can get the info at gloomis.com. What's the rod number? The rod/blank should be under warranty. Spencer Phipps
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I get my a;chol from a hardware store, and have for years. All denatured alchol as far as I know is just grain alchol with a small amount of wood alchol in it so you won't drink it. The stuff I've bought and the stuff we used in the Coast Guard didn't appear particularly flammable to me, no more than any of the other solvents, safer than some I can think of.
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Check the first link to the left, there it is.
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The ceramic single foot fly guide takes 25 lbs of pressure to bend or deflect it measurably. Much more presure that your blank can ever take. I have used them and they are being used by major rod companies in much heavier rods than most fly blanks. Every rod using the Fuji Concept System is using them in the tip section, fly, baitcast, or spin. You can mix and match the guides any way you need
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The only one I know of in MH is made by Graphite USA. A DHX blank if I remember right. Stock is gloss grey I believe, but matt grey is available if you ask for it. Link to the left.
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They make steelhead/salmon spin/cast blanks and some shorter 3 piece travel spin/cast blanks. Angler's Workshop carries them, Rodbuilder Supplies also.
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Al, Try putting your loop in a few wraps sooner, start everything as before, but when the thread comes in contact with the wrap, stop pulling, tighten it and cut with a pair of small scissors and pull the tag through. It should now have disappeared under your wrap with nothing showing. Scissors that cut the thread with no tension usually cut clean with no filament residue, double edged razor bla
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Angler's Workshop also carries the Lamiglas glass blanks and is right next door to the plant. I thought they were S-glass blanks though.
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Try talongraphite.com, an American rod manufacturer of carp blanks/rods. Angler's Workshop can get them for you.
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The Lamiglas IMC 784 is IMO a blank that goes between the Loomis blanks mentioned. Same graphite as the IMX blanks. Straighter blanks, cost less, a win-win.
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Saw One that looked real nice with Rice thread Fuschia with no CP. Blended in very good with the blank.
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Temple blanks are not available, and won't be until they have some excess, they sell all they can build now. I think I'd go with a Dan Craft FT 10 ft blank wrapped as a switch rod for the most bang for the buck. Bob Meiser left some info on these back in August if I remember right. Just put his name in the search engine to get the info. Custom Tackle, Bingham's Ent. and Angler's Workshop among ot
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Greg, Dan Craft, Custom Tackle, Utmost Ent., Bingham's Ent., Greg's Custom Rods, FishSticks4U, Rodbuilder Suppies and many others carry them.
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Dan, You might try e-mailing them. If they have a small supply of something or if the supplier quits making something it isn't in the catalog. Have picked up many things from them, that weren't in the catalog anymore.
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Nice enough blanks, but the blanks Dustin mentioned, St Croix, All Star, and American Tackle I think are a better value. Usually straighter blanks also.
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Greg, I think thread is where I'd start.
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Matt, Angler's Workshop has the blanks and are only about 40 ft from the Lamiglas factory. They give excellent, quick service. And have a list of all the Lamiglas rod/blanks. I think there used to be some discounted 901MT in the front rack, but it's been a while since I looked.They were not seconds and under warranty.
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Try the high frame, I bet it makes the transition from your reel to the other guides straighter also.
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Try the St Croix site for your set up to start with. Use the static distribution test in the article in the library to check. Might try a #16 high frame double foot, #12 high, #10 fly, #8 fly, #7's to a #7 tip. I'm sure others will have their input.
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