Just a thought and a little in-put is needed....instead of throwing all of that other unwanted cp away is there some other sort of use for these ???? Knowing now for sure that the tests I ran on white thread on top of a black blank proved to me that the only cp worth its weight was the old Gudebrod and Flex Coat .I tried all the cps from craft shops and every single cp sold by our suppliers on
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"nuther .02 cents".... When I started rod building back with the Bullard and Clemens people, brushes were the thing to use and the spatula's were never mentioned....There are so many pros and cons it is unbelieveable.....go with what you feel is best for you....one word left....Flex coat makes the very best brushes available and with the proper cleaning will last many years.
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Chris For many years I have used FIX wood filler which comes in many "flavours" and is ready mixed and fast drying {alcohol} based. And extremely easy to sand.....mind you I am not bad knocking any of the fillers from the great sponsers on the left just am advising of a very old product that has worked for me many, many years.
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Without sounding like a bird....I will say in-expensive but very good quality....give Sevier...C.U.I Products {wholesalers that will help you find their products} then continue on to Utmost {Batson Products}, Anglers Workshop {west coast} Mudhole {east coast} along with everyone of these sponsers to your left ...none will rip your wallet out of your pocket and the prices run from very in-expens
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KINDA CATCHY....."THREADMASTER-HACKMASTER".....I WANNABE A CLUB MEMBER
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Been trying by E-mail to get in touch with Joe and/or Chase of American Tackle for some time now and not getting any responce...tryed by phone today with Joe and got message machine...also noticed Chase has not been on the Forum as late......Any ideas ?????
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Bill....Long ago I put some c.p. on some n.c.p. thread and more than likely it was a heavy coat, the thread got all puffy like and the thread over lapped itself....That was the last time I ever did that, I made sure it was a light coat from then on out and if I needed more c.p. I second or third coated and never had the problem again. Note: I try my best to not use c.p. on n.c.p at all times.
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To keep those small ends of cork tape down, use a tooth pick with a couple "dabs" of any quick dry adhesive. Apply adhesive and wrap the cork tape a couple times with masking tape to hold down. I use this method on any start and finish of cork tape and have never had one unravel yet. Do what the good Capt. suggests...this way is real simple when getting the correct angle.
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YEAH ROBBIE....You the man....anything and every thing you can possibly offer will be accepted with open arms. I have used FishHawk for many years through Merrick but now have changed directions.... Who else is carrying your line ????
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Doe's anyone know Rich Forhans web site address....Thanks in advance. Glad to hear that everyone enjoyed the BIG SHOW !!!!!!!! Wish I coulda been there with you.
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Kevin....30 plus years of building rods and too numerous to mention the amounts and NEVER have I had to replace a motor on my Clemens {Renzetti} of which I was one of the first to purchase one from Dale. I still have my back up that I bought as a "just in case" from Graingers getting dustier by the year. Scott....Why not do what Kevin did and if that sucker goes bad on you make sure
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A thought that may help along with Tom's suggestion...I bought one of the more solid type motor set ups now sold by Renzetti and had nothing but problems...I went back to the original hinge type mounted on the headstock with the belt running over the two pulleys {per Tom's suggestion of small to motor pulley and large to headstock} I have never lost a motor in 30 plus years and I ream cork consta
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WHOA GUYS....I never took any shots at BILL STEVENS, he along with quite a few others on this forum has taught myself and others one heck of alot in their threads on numerous subjects....I even stated that with his knowledge of rod building he has sold me on being a person I would talk to if I was a customer looking to have a rod built....This to ME is selling yourself and not the product...Or I
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Beg to differ with Bill Stevens....but....I feel that selling yourself doe's not mean that you are a reputable rod builder trying to sell him a color of thread, I think it shows your ability to communicate with the potential customer and speak of the things that you can add to the already known product to make it better for the customers needs. I am not selling him on the thread he should use or
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Ked...In sales I have found that to sell a product you have to sell yourself first...if the product is good it will sell itself no matter what....Always mention the company who did the donation of componets and above all a bit about yourself. Donation is a great business builder as long as you get out there and sell yourself.
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Sometimes you get the brass ring sometimes you don't...To remove the old finish use heat and a plastic impliment to scrape with[as in the library here} Remember not much heat and if you have done graphites you will see that the fiberglass can withstand a bit more heat. Discoloring will be there so you may want to underwrap or make a longer guide wrap to cover this discoloration. Myself I have us
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Capt. Neil.... Your thread on the spiral wrap was sensational....is there any way that you could email me a copy ????
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I ditto all of the above three fold.....No way this is clout....this is Love and some very smart business people to share their love with other rod builders thru Rodmaker Mag....YEAH Team Mudhole !!!!! A step above per usual.
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At times in the past that I used NCP and added CP the wraps seemed to turn soggy and sloppy and some did come completely loose. I no longer use CP on ANY of the NCP thread. I do not know for sure if this was my imagination or not but I do recall the clear CP seemed to hold better than the milky.....I always used Gudebrods 811 and I am hoping that someone comes up with a new product in the clear
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Hey Tim....I would suggest using reg. nylon on the black and then CP a couple coats as if you have a dark colored blank the blank color may work up thru your goldenrod color. If the black was your only color then I would advise you not to use CP as the brightness seems to be more present. I only use black NCP for color shading with reg. black as it seems to always look milky to me. Might I sug
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Just last night a young man at the age of 12 called me and asked if I would teach him to wrap rods because he was into tournament bass fishing and wanted to build his own.....You think I didn't set that hook instantly ????....He comes to me this weekend to start his apprenticeship. I am tickled pink as they use to say. By the way...his name is Tanner and one of the first things I will show h
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Bob....I wrapped a set of Powell's Hex graphite rods {4} before I ever kept records but this was when Powell first came out with the Hex blanks and I was told by the fella who brought me these blanks that the foam did simulate the inners of a bamboo rod but that the foam was there for floatation if the rod ever fell into the water as he was told by a guy who lived in Redding, Ca.that he bought t
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It has been so long ago that I bought my first gang type {4} that I forgot when {mid to late 70's} and from whom {Gene Bullard or Dale Clemens}, This was a bicycle chain, pillow block set up with 1 1/2" pvc cups, innertube over the pvc opening, held in place by metal pipe clamps with a 3/4" hole in the innertube to hold the rod for turning. At first I used blank pieces slipped into the
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I have in the past invited a few of these slightly off centered guide type rods into the spa with me and I was also told that others have done the same in a bathroom tub....I have always been fearful of applying any type of flame to a epoxy finish, I have also used a steam type cleaner for tile floors {small household type} which worked very well even on older finishes and have never had any fin
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Harold& Marty..I use to use primer when I first started my playing with re-do's but no longer unless you are doing white or yellow and once you have put primer on the blank you seem to want to add color as soon as the primer is dry....this adds to the time that your paint needs to dry before putting the thread on with all the tension it needs. Try a test on a scrap piece of blank freshly pain
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Thank You Bill Stevens....I am with you better than 100%....very well said !!!! Are the big names like Lamiglas etc. REALLY wanting our rod building business anymore ? ...I really don't think so, at least not at the prices they are charging us. Everytime their prices to the rod builder goes up the QUALITY takes another dive... My thanks to the people like Batson ,Sevier, and American Tackle
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Marty....Make sure your paint job is well dryed before wrapping...if you are in no rush let it dry for 48 hours or just handling it may leave finger prints and when you use pressure of the thread it may "squeeze" up thru the threads. The biggest failures you get from rod building is from being in a rush.....Been there - done that....learned the hard way.
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Tom....If you get that light fingered guy that heisted the Wonder Weaver how about tying him to a stake and stand him up for lure practice in the parking lot. It does hurt the old heart knowing there are still people around in the rod building clan that soils us.
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Matry....The Ray and Jay team know of what they pass on to you....listen to them.....In my earlier years I was more proud of what I turned out for the customer in the complete re-dos than the new construction and to this day I feel the same...Right on Ray and Jay !!!!!
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$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ and $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ I love the good ole U.S.A .....But when it comes to the customers wants they are the ones that count. I was weened on Fenwick and Lamiglass and my own rods are all Lamiglas and the original G. Loomis. Price is what counts nowdays. Batsons blanks are all offshore and are all very good blanks and so are Sevier and also alot les
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