How do you level a blank for applying epoxy finish? I have been using a torpedo level and still get finish bunching up on the tip end. I read a post in the earlier pages that said not to use a bubble level. How else would you do it? I've already done a search and it turned up nothing.
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Decal Connection has a disclaimer in Bright red on their homepage that states that they wiil not duplicate any rod manufacturers decals without prior approval in wrighting from the manufacturer.
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I've also painted a few pld blanks here recently. I used spay adhesion promoter I got at the auto parts store, then painted worked great. I haven'ttried permagloss yet.
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Andy, Could these mandrels be used in a drill press to turn also?
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Hank, I don't know, it was on a white plastic spool, about the size of a Gudebrod 100 yd. spool. It had no labels on it. So many people sent me spools of black thread, I've got enough to probly do 50 rods. The folks on this board have been so generous and willing to help out.
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I just finished a rod I was making for my brother for his burthday. I used black nylon for the underwraps. and orange nylon for the guide and overwraps. Don't know if they were NCP or not, they were some that that some kind sole sent me. After applying the LS finish the orange wraps turned very dark and stayed there. Should I have used some CP?
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Another note: they also have pigments?????
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I 've looked at this on @#$%&. You can buy kit's with 6 to 8 color's. Just curious Putter, why did you make that statement? Is this product not suitable for use on rods?
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They are used to hold your reel on a Tennesee style handle. It's built with no reel seat, all cork. I learned that here!!
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Go to your neiborhood hobby shop or Lowe's / Home Depot sometimes carry it and get the rubber fuel line hose that they use for fuel lines in RCV's. At Lowe's or Home Depot it will be in plumbing with the other hose they sell by the foot. Cut it up in about 1/8" sections, works great. It comes in different sizes. get a foot or 2 of each will last a long time. Mike, you and I were typin
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I took a trip to the Jantz Knife site. Wow!!! I bet that diamond wood would make some beautiful handles. Anyone used it?
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I think, because of the "off color" pictures that have been getting posted the pics have to be approved now. THis may be the problem.
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Billy, Do you do {teh} <------<<< that just to annoy some people?? Tom K. ROFLMAO
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Fred, I'd like a copy also, if you don't mind.
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Hi ED, Thanks for the response, and the offer. I have enough 8's I needed a 10 & a 12. John, from Rocky Mountain Rodbuilding Supplies took care of me. I encourage all rodbuilders to give him your business. He is the first and only dealer / distributor to even offer to help me out. Gos bless you John.
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I am a newbie too but I have learned that if you use the side of the lighter flame and not the tip you don't get the soot as bad. Don't forget, don't leave the flame in one place too long or you'll burn through your thread and boil the finish.
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I know you guy's are thinking "what a bum this guy is", but trust me if I were in the position to buy this stuff I would. I can't stand asking anyone for help, financial or otherwise. That being said, I need 2 guides. They are the AmTak chrome with blue zirconium rings, I need a #12 & #10 to finish a rod I'm working on. If anyone has these to spare, please let me know off the b
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It just amazes me how generous the folks on this board can be thanks so much Ken. God bless you.
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I tried the technique that Ken Preston describes in his DVD, with finish epoxy and Testor's. I didn't like it, the epoxy didn't get hard enough. When I tried to wrap on it, the thread dug in to the finish. I know I mixed it right. I don't have any Permagloss or Klass Kote so I couldn't try them. I do, however, have some craft epoxy. The type that you put over drawings and pictures to make p
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Lou, Thanks for responding. That would be great, if I had the money to pay for it and shipping. Read some of my earlier "Help" posts and you will see why.
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I am in need of a #18 spinning reel seat with gold hoods, does anyone, who knows my situation, have one to spare? I would appreciate it.
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I agree with John Black, get Ken Preston's DVD. It's awesome.
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To add a little to larry's post above, I do the same only I cut my cards so that they will fit into an exacto knife handle. Gives alittle extension and more control.
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Doug, Wouldn't they work if you used an extension? I've used them on regular paddle bits. Steven, Maybe if you would Rod Bond a short peice of dowel in the end of your reamer it wouldn't break off. I don't know, just throwin out a suggestion. I'm a newbe too.
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I got some that is orange and black, but it's size E. It's Gudebrod Jasper. Bought it off @#$%&.
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Buy whatever blank you need and paint it. I just finished a solid glass rod for my nephew. Painted it with PlasiCote auto paint, then covered it with same brand clear cote. It turned out beautiful. You just have to leave it alone for a couple days to let the paint set up and get really good and cured.
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If you can afford it, get Ken Preston's DVD on Rod Building. It covers this area and also color changes very extensively. It's well worth the price.
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Everyone probably knows this, but, I'm going to say it anyway. With regards to receiving merchandise that the distributor sent and was tol not to. It's federal law that anything received in the mail that was not authorised or ordered by an indidvidual, can be considered a gift. I had this problem once with the North American Fishing Club, they sent me a book that I didn't order and expected me
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If your going to paint yourself, you need to use Duplicolor / Platicote (either / or), Auto Paint (not the regular spray paint) and then Clear Cote same as the paint. Make sure you let dry a couple days before trying to wrap on it.
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According to the repair article (in library at the top) by Ralph O'Quinn, it states to use a lower modulus inner sleeve. Lets hope your repair doesn't fail. Good Luck!!
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