i used CYSG16 as first guide for both my G Loomis S781 and NFC SJ603, paired with Shimano 1000 reels
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i use a cylindrical rasp (there's no taper to the rasp) to remove 'larger' amounts of cork.. when close to the OD of the blank, i switch over to the file.. works well for the last few cork grip rebuilds i've done..
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i used to tape it up .. but now, i screw the nut to the top and just glue .. i clean up after i finish aligning it.. but of course, you have to ensure that the glue doesn't make it all the way up into the nut.. made that mistake once .. i actually cleaned it as best i could and oiled the area ... managed to keep the thread working..
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mike, by any chance, did you let the varnish dry a few hours or so? last night, I tried something similar.. used gudebrod goldenrod on a IMX blank.. though i overwrapped (in front of the foregrip/hosel) a short section (probably 1/2"), when i applied gudebrod speed coat (not varnish), the thread looked splotchy (dark patches) in some areas and looked ok at other areas.. I applied anot
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That rod varnish is a blank coating and it does > not say anything about a Color Preserver ?? > i find the gudebrod rod varnish or speedcoat works pretty well as a CP/sealant.. I've been using this in place of the CP for the last few builds/rebuilds as i find it's thinner than CP, flows better in
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it'll work nicely .. i'm still using finishes i've bought 3-5 years back.. as i only build rods for myself, i dont go through a lot of finish.. if your coating is thin enough, you probably couldnt tell that it looks yellowish on the rod, except maybe on white thread/background
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thanks Tom Lance, i wanted to start a new topic, but always thought what i've been noticing was due to humidity (as its always around 60%~ 90% over here).. turns out wrong anyway.. its more of "type of finish" issue. -- Anyway, humidity levels should be a non issue as in my country, the humidity level is fairly high and the finish always cures nicely...
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just curious .. when you remove the old guides, does your rod finish 'peel off' or does it 'crack off' i've been rebuilding some of my old custom rods and when i come to the rod finish, i can peel off (meaning it's pliable). whereas on factory rods, the finish seems to crack off
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That's good to hear. Do be careful however, as the > two parts are not of the same viscosity and when > colder temps arrive the difference is even greater > so the drops may not always be of equal size. > > .............. agreed.. i dont have cold weather here (its summer 365 days) but i fo
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i use the length of my handle to determine reel seat placement.. the rod butt would normally be 2 inches above the inside of my elbow.. will have to take into consideration the type of rod being built too i guess.. if it's a 6 or 7ft, i will use the above method as it will be for light luring.. whereas if i am building a 9ft or 12ft rod for the surf, my seat will be higher up for me to do a 2 ha
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i rather use the syringe method... i used to use the yorker cap drip method.. and i always had problems with it due to the fact that my drips were not same in size... ended up having more of the thicker liquid as it didnt flow as well and i have to squeeze the bottle a bit. with the syringe, 1 cc is 1 cc.. no more, no less.. nothing subjective.. it is a fixed measurement, of course, unless the
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meaning, the company branding on the rod, may not be the actual manufacturer of the item..
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distilled water works fine in thinning the paint .. now the only problem is how much to add into.. meanwhile, i have used another opague silver ink from winsor & newton and it works fine.. short of using krylon fixatif to 'fix' the lettering, i am wondering if i can use a spray bottle with gudebrod speedcoat to seal the letterings..
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thanks vic, i'll back and try to thin it down drop by drop.. pelikan's website doesnt say whether it can be thinned down or what it should be thinned with.. the confusing thing about it is that it's water based , yet it says lacquer
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hi, wonder if any of you guys have used the above paint for inscribing rods? i finally got myself a drawing pen (dip pen type) but the plaka lack seems fairly thick. i was wondering that since it is a water based paint, could i thin it down with distilled water, and if so, how much should i add..
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ditto on the FG knot.. been using it ever since i learnt it .. it transtions pretty nicely from mainline to leader with a bit of 'weaving' and half hitches to hold down.. never had a properly tied fg knot slipped on me.. the casting part is fine.. though the tag end, if not trimmed closely, may give you a slight issue on the retrieve.
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Bob, i bought it in Singapore.. regarding the warranty card, I've got to check with them and they don't really do invoices unless specifically requested. normally, i keep my payment slip as proof of purchase with the package tag.. Jon, thanks for the replies both here and email... gotta love you guys! got what i needed to know in less than 2 hours!
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Well, NFC's website shows only USA and Aus/NZ retailers.. none in Singapore... anyway, i'll try emailing Jon about it..
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hi. got myself into a bit of mess here.. i got myself a NFC IM SJ603-1 and built a light spin rod (CYSG16, 10, 8, CLSG 5.5 x 3 & CFST5.5) to be used with my shimano 1000/c2000 reel.. all went fine till the time i tried to apply the NFC decal and messed up the decal before it got onto the rod... some questions i have .. 1. how should i apply the decal.. this isnt the normal peel and
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Dan, i did ask about the screw in cap months back .. but dont think it has been tried out yet .. (it's hard for me to get my hands on permagloss, so i am reluctant to try it on mine..) i think that unless the cap is fairly thick, the screw-in-cap wouldnt be entirely air-tight
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if your son has health challenges, be sure to check if he's able to work with epoxies and rod finishes. also, ensure that you and your son have proper protection against cork dust and what not.. I think i'm beginning to develope amine sensitivity .. my hands break out in a light rash whenever i am close to freshly mixed rod finish..
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but be prepared to lose a bit of cork in the process... you will probably lose a bit of cork (the width of the saw blade) in the process..
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yeah nice story! Nice to know that Loomis and Franklin rods has a link to Gary too!
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sorry to post on the rod dancer thread, but yes, i agree the elmers wood filler in golden oak makes a good filler for natural cork! .. i'm using overstocked cork from mudhold and i use the filler on some of the deeper, 'unsightly' holes.. after sanding & sealing with candlewax/corkseal.. i cant really remember where were the holes! best thing is, i got it for SGD6.90 (1USD ~ 1.42SGD)
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may not be a good choice, but i had some luck with 3M magic tape...
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PG would already be classified as DG, so that packing (can with screw) would probably be not suited to airlines requirement. .. Rich, either you or myself will have to take the first step in trying the screw-in-cap.. problem is, with my humidity and temp, i thiink the method may not work too well for me..
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how about classic coat?
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sorry guys, i have an new bottle of permagloss, and i am just wondering before i look for a can, why can i just install a screw in the cap of the current bottle it's in?
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i reuse my brushes.. used to clean them in thinner, but could not take the smell.. so i bought a bottle of brush cleaner and it's been working well so far. i use china bristle brush for application of CP, but for finishing, i favour using nylon. i tried sable long time back, but lack of proper cleaning caused it to solidfy on me one..
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looks good!
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