tom, any plans to sell it in Singapore ? :)
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hmm .. triple wrapped ? my epoxy application skills leave very much to be desired..
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Hi all, i'm thinking of doing up a calstar gf600m (20-40lb) in accurate colors (blue eva and guide wrapping), i was thinking of doing an underwrap in black, before wrapping on the guides.. since this is my first try on underwraps, should i epoxy the underwraps before doing the guides or should i apply the epoxy after everything is done.
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hi dennis, how long does rod bond take to cure?
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i wouldnt mind subscribing.. problem is, i am in Singapore..basically we have limited resources.. books on rod building are even harder to find.. purchased the custom thread art book (Dale Clemens) many many years back,, sold it and realised that it was a gem.. and luckily managed to find it again recently, together with the new advanced custom rod building book.. been wanting to get Tom'
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hmm .... yeah, if i think about it now..most ppl talk about the spine being the backbone of the rod (fact or fiction? ).. not the reason to prevent rod twisting.. things i hear 10 years back, has a new meaning now..
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hmm .. good question.. size 2 hook with 12-lb flurocarbon leader with a small float?
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i think he saw them on the boat and asking it was true.. dont think he is doing up his rod this way
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the concept for spining applies more to setting up the guides for conventional reels as pressure from fighting the fishing will cause the rod to twist if the guides are not in alignment with the spine.. guides facing down (eg spinning, spiral) do not have this problem as the pressure from fighting will just bring the line down to the outer edge of the ring, away from the blank.. hence i only spin
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complicated! the pics look easier.. thought it was wrap until the end of the guide foot, then do a wrap behind the guide, round the blank (blocking wrap) , then 3 times round the guide 'neck', then 2 more blocking wraps? Anthony, i will be going beach road today (abt 1330hrs)... need to get varnish to touch up somepart of the surf rod.. will you be there .. my mobile 97384524
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hmm .. just took off the guides from my old surf rod (changed and wrapped the guides about 10yrs back) and FC was not yellow.. it was more to brown!!
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Hi Ray, dont think i have warranty on this blank.. supposed to be a GUSA F906DH blank.. apparently it's an OEM blank.. by the way guys (and ladies if there are), I live in Singapore.. dont have steelies, pikes, small/large mouth bass etc.. the only salmon i get are smoked .. and my tuna gets eaten raw... i think the rodbuilding market over here is limited.. dont think i am able to find
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thanks mike, i guess practice makes perfect.. mine didnt turn out too well the first time..
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Hi all, sorry for this newbie qn... i'm wondering if it's possible to do forhan wraps on the fuji concept LSG guides, on sz 6 & 7. I tried it on my 5'8 b/c rod, starting with LNSG, down to LSG, tip being FST. somehow i feel that the 'neck' between the leg and the ring is too small to do forhan wraps. For the YSG, i forsee no problems....
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Brent : tried the masking tape.. but after applying just 3 layers of CP, i realised that it should not be used for epoxying .. the tape creates a small lil wall
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thanks gary.. i was wondering abt hookset too, given that there's not much backbone on a fly rod.. wonder how those noodle sticks do it, sine it's 2-4 lb line only
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hi anthony, how much is that in SGD? maybe, when it arrives, you let me know, i will pop by .. heh...
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Hmmm.. will give g.loomis a try after i get my skills in order.. still need practise on applying epoxy and threadwork.. and it cost too much to make a mistake on it.. the g .loomis n1382 blank cost S$315 ...bahhh i just completed my TN handle.. shaped and sanded...
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the heat comes from the chemical reaction of the resin and hardener?
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thanks all for the input.. so i gather that i can proceed to do the fly blank up as a spinning rod.. luckily you guys have mentioned that the lure weight should be 3/8 oz.. someone wrote on the label for the blank : lure weight 1.28 oz.. i guess that for the 6wt, line poundage 4-8lb should be fine? hi anthony, saw a few 7ft + rods.. but more keen on 8ft onwards as my TN grip is
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thanks spencer, however i am not too sure on fly ratings.. a 6 or 7 wt fly blank would be equal to how many lb ( if there is such form of conversion)?
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hi all, would like to know if the above is adviseable? I am looking to build a Ultra light/light spinning rod, around 8-10 ft, with 4-8lb lines.. only blanks that were available to me was a 10ft g.loomis noodle rod blank (rated 4lb) which was too floppy for my liking, and some GUSA, Talon 9ft 6/7 wt fly blanks which had the action i wanted. also, is there any forms of conversion whe
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yeah .. anthony is right on .. i was walking around the shops today.. tempted to buy TM from Joe's to try out.. but since there is gonna be a lite version, i'm holding off getting the TM..
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thanks for the input kevin .. i think i will compare it on the scrap blank .. hi andy, the lite version will be out in another 60 days, but i gather, by the time it reachss Singapore, it may be another 60-90 days after.
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thanks tom.. i'm building light rods for personal use.. mainly simple rods with no intricate butt wraps ( as i still havent grasped the concept of butt wrapping, however, i am quite keen in weaving). threads, for the moment, will be kept to the blank color, except with a wee bit of end trim of HT metallic silver or gold. i guess i will just try it out on the scrap blanks , check out with o
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thanks all for the input.. Hi anthony, i am trying to find one of the brands of epoxies that will give me less prob in the long run.. like now, i am currently using fc lite, but if the yellowing is going to an issue, i rather switch out early. personally, i have not come across and of my rod bindings yellowing.. but my epoxy skill leaves much to be desired... (thanks for the tutorial b
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thanks mike.. from what is written on the flex coat lite, it is supposed to be UV stable/resistant.. i'm looking for something more on ease of application/mixing and UV stability.. hate to have something done up nicely, only to be ruined by yellowing epoxy. i bought LS supreme mainly because of the above reasons, but have yet to try it out.. i'm also wondering if the expoxies are to be used
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Hi all, sorry if this has been brought up before (i did read some in the old post,s but not all of the brands at the same time).. but i would like to know the pros and cons (if any) of each of the following : flex coat hi build flex coat lite u40 ls supreme super classic coat threadmaster personally i have the first 3 brands, but have yet to try the ls supreme.
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just to add something about lurkers.. i believe most of the lurkers here are to learn from the various masters.. most of the qns we may have should and could have already been answered in previous posts.
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Steve Broadwell Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hey, Cliff, nice to see you back. > I quit using denatured. It was damaging some > finishes on blanks, sort of taking the gloss off > or something. dang, i wish i read this before i tried. I switching from using thinner solvents to denatured alcohol and i dabbed some near the guide finish to clea
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