Tore, If you turn the blank from the butt you will not be able to glue-up and turn the fighting butt at same time. Means that you will have to turn the FB separately and bore it and glue it on after. Herb
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I developed a way to SAFELY mount a fly rod to Flexcoat cork lathe that would work with any lathe. You can glue-up grip AND fighting butt at same time and turn the whole thing at once. You connect the male ferrule to the chuck - NOT IN THE CHUCK. NEVER place a blank IN the chuck. Email me if you want instx. Herb
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Yes - I can. Herb
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Tim, Agreed - just easier to bend to convention. herb
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Al If you can get your hands on the old discontinued TSVSG I would use 16, 12, 10. If not - the TK should be 20,16,12. Then snakes in #6 and 5's the rest of the way Herb
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This is a fly rod guys. Using ceramics on that rod will reduce the grain window by 20 grains - with really no benefit other than maybe less friction fighting a fish. More important, I think, to get the best performance you can. And with a beach fly rod that means carrying maximum grains to bust through wind. herb
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Yes to the 20, 16, 12. But when I see 8's I know you are going to use ceramics. Al - you will ruin the performance on any blank with the weight of ceramics. Stay with #5 REC Recoil snakes. I use a REC Recoil tip-top also. But that blank can handle a conventional fly rod tip-top. If you don't like REC Recoils - go with Snakebrand #5's Herb
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Sorry if I mislead. That price for the 120" blank is for a 2pc. 4 pc is + $48
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Sorry if I mislead. That price for the 120" blank is for a 2pc. 4 pc is + $48
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Al, BTW - You definitely do not want a 11'0" rod in the surf unless you are playing around on a nice day. I have 3-4 11 footers that are now taking up space in my rack. They will never see the light of day again. Minimum 12'0". If you make your email visible - or send me your address I will upload a video showing the 12'0" rod in action. Maybe I can even find one with the 1
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Richard, Thanks for the shout-out. Yes - those blanks are truly without peer and designed exactly for that purpose. Mike likes his with the discontinued AirFlo two-handed beach lines. I like to use mine with the new Sci Angler intermediate Skagit heads and the RIO Med 10' MOW tips. The loop to loop connections are so perfected now that they are hardly noticeable. Actually I welcome the very
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That is fine IMO. Herb
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Agreed - #12, #6. But for my saltwater #6's - #16, #10, #2's
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Dear Bill, I am building a tuna rod for a customer on a 7'6", 3pc, #16 on a custom CTS blank. Customer already paid for engineering so subsequent blanks will not incur these charges. Planned on using the Fuji TKWSG #16 down to #8's. Donny from Angler's Resource checked with the Fuji engineers and they will be fine. BUT - he did share that Fuji is developing a new set of guides speci
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I will soon have a list of all blanks that CTS has produced previously that will not be subject to the fee. Let me know if interested. Herb
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Have a couple of Sages' that do not have plugs. I like plugs to keep dirt out. I use Goop or 6000 squeezed into male ferrule and set Goop side down on plastic wrap to cure Herb
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CTS has been known and appreciated for its willingness to build to a builders specs - any length, # of sections, power. The fee to do this was a modest $34 U.S. So many builders have availed themselves of this service that it resulted in 20-30 hours of time doing engineering. This is no longer feasible. Therefore, effective after my current order, he fees will be as follows: Section chan
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CTS - any length, any number of pieces. I am placing a bulk order this week. Herb Ladenheim Distrib CTS Blanks Sponsor here
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Harry, No - not at all. Stripper distance from butt is personal preference. Mine on my 11'0" rods are at 39" from butt. I think it allows for a better flow of line out of my stripping basket. If you don't use a basket it is still a better flow of line. Some place the stripper so it can be reached while holding the rod in natural position. I do not. If, for some reason, I c
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Easy. CTS in any model. Nymphing?? Placing a bulk order tomorrow. Expect delivery Sept. Herb Distrib. CTS Fly Blanks
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I use opaque white fabric paint from hobby store. Apply with nib - Wait 15-20 min and brush epoxy right over it. Go to store now - and re do for tomorrow. I add a little brown to tone down the whitness. There are myriad of colors to use as-is or mix. Just BE SURE IT SAYS OPAQUE. Herb
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Once I moved the stripper farther away from the butt I took off all my "tamers" as unnecessary.
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Russ, You are correct. Don't know why I got involved after building hundreds of fly rods. Always trying to learn something. Never know it all.
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Tom, Fly rods are absent from all these primers. Herb
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Phil, I do not use that "formula" to determine position of striper. I know most do, however. When casting one should either let line slip through fingers - or - have line come-up tight to the reel. In either case there is no need to "reach" for the line. But in the event that the caster loses control of the line he can simply move the rod backwards with the rod hand until
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Donnie from Anglers Recourse says that Fuji is coming out with a new line of guides better suited for blue-water than anything they have now. Herb
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This seems to address the fish-fighting aspect of rod-bend. Where does the casting performance enter into the equation. Especially - for me - fly rods?? Seems fly rod casting performance may dictate different spacing. I try to keep the stripper and 2nd guide close together to eliminate rod wrap. So my stripper is farther from the reel seat than usual. Herb
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On all my single handed fly rods I use "A" on stripper and second guide and "00" for runners to lower weight. The "00" is actually stronger than the "A" because there are so many more wraps. But certainly not "D". Herb
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I would send it back. But if you want to "fix" the ferrule knock - "paint" the male with thinned white acrylic fabric paint from a hobby store. let it dry well and then assemble and twist. You will see where it is hitting and not hitting. herb
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Rod Specs: CTS Revo Salt, 7'6", #16, 3pc, Custom blank.
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