I have probably 50 + repairs working on the water without a failure. These repairs could be anywhere from butt to tip and none have failed when following Mr. O'quinn's repair procedure to the letter. Wouldn't even consider using a piece of wire inside the blank.
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I met Mike some years ago on this forum. We talked many times via e-mail and telephone. Then I got to meet him at the ICRBE, what a wonderful man. He was my mentor when I started building. We have had many rod building conversations. I will truly miss him. My best wishes to Mike and his family.
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Herb; You can buy almost any diameter of "O" ring material in straight pieces for making your own "O" rings. I think we are talking about plugging the end of the male section here. Some mfg's leave it open, others plug it with a piece of rubber. You can buy it in any length and diameter measured in 0.000 of an inch.
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OK. Thanks Gary.
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I need to replace a set of ferrules on an old cane rod. Where do I measure in order to get the closest possible fit. This set of ferrules are for the mid and tip sections. This is a wall hanger.
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I just glue in a little piece of "O" ring material, that fits, and cut it flush when dry. That's what the Mfg. uses,, rubber. I figure their R&D trumps anything I know about it.
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You are exactly right. Just finished a 7' 3" Floating Frog rod and put running 6's on it. Most of the lakes in my area are pretty much free of duckweed and the like that cause guide blocking problems.. Rivers however, a different story, a lot of drifts and stuff like Cottonwood blooms, depending on the time of year.
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Some of the Bass fishermen I build for are skeptical about Micro Guides on a Bass rod. They think the rings are too small for the line to flow through easily. I use #4's for running guides most of the time. I just took a #3 and put 20 pieces of 15 lb P-Line through the guide at one time. I will keep this little display on hand for everyone to see.
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Hal If you put the 6" extension in the butt like Todd says it will make the collapsed rod 6" longer. Therefore, you can have your butt guide 6" closer to the reel. It will still fit in any rod locker when collapsed.
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I do it exactly as Billy said and it works. Some years ago someone posted the same question and one of the responses was ;" Push up a "tire" with your brush and roll it off the edge of the thread while spinning the rod. Billy used the word "bubble" in the same context. The word " Tire" stuck in my mind .
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I have seen this numerous times over the years. I do as Spencer says,,turn the crook up and build it. It's seldom noticeable after it's built.
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I wrapped them with electrical tape after cleaning them good with alcohol. This has happened , I think twice, in the past couple of years. The last kit was a 32 oz, kit I got at the Show in Feb. and both containers were cracked. Doesn't bother me. Probably due to rough handling during shipping. Seems strange that I am the only one so far that's noticed this.
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Just wondering if anyone else has seen this problem. The last 2 kits of Rod Bond I purchased had tiny vertical cracks in the containers. I noticed the outside of the containers were greasy, sticky. After a close inspection, I found each container had 1 or 2 tiny vertical cracks and the materials were leaking out. I wonder if U-40 is aware of this since the containers are vacuum wrapped after fill
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I totally agree with Sam. I have built several rods for this type fishing and I wouldn't use anything but a Steel head blank. I built 4 of them for one guy that fishes in Miss. for Crappie just as Sam described and used 20 lb max line class blanks. He said they were the best Crappie rods in his arsenal. I think they would work perfectly for pitching to large Redear and Bluegill. I also like the i
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Re-build it and use it . I don't think you would notice the Power loss. Action is supposed to go slightly moderate. You can handle any Bass in Ky Lake with it. I prefer a 6' 8" myself.
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If you follow R. O'quinn's directions to the letter, the repair will work. I have been using his method for a few years now and have never had a repair fail (knock on wood). I have probably repaired 50 + rods to date with no failures. I built my fishing partner an ATC , 7 ft ,0 power Popping rod for Crappie fishing. It got broken about 17 inches from the tip via tree branch, I repaired it. I wat
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A big thanks goes out to Jeremy for hosting such a wonderful event. It was our first meeting and everything went great. It was a pleasure meeting Mark Marshall even though he is from TN. we wont hold that against him. We made some great friendships. Many thanks to all the sponsors and everyone who took the time out to make it to our first gathering. Looking forward to seeing everyone at our next
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A #20 is very close. It will work fine but a #25 will be little taller and a little bigger and more in line with the reel. The weight difference won't be noticeable that close to your hand. You got to keep the weight off the forward half of the rod (thus the #4's). If my butt guide is less than half the dia of the reel spool face, I always go one bigger. If I change spools to a heavier line then
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I would stick with what Joe says, but be sure to check the diameter of the reel spool face just to make sure the #20 is large enough. May have go with a #25 and keep everything else the same. First guide should be half the dia. of the reel spool face.
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Hi Jim; Here is my guess. It looks like the old finish, underneath the new, has come loose from the blank. The fact that it is just on one side, that is the side that has been facing up while laying on the boat deck. It looks like little "blisters" in the old finish. I am rebuilding one now and it looks the same way. I am taking off all the old finish and leaving it bare graphite.
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Max is a fine young man and I talked him into doing 10 push ups.
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My sentiments exactly. It was great seeing you again and as always , great conversations. We all missed Ken Preston and Bill Eshelman. Gary, Doc Hodges and I had a great time seeing old friends and making new ones. Had some great food at the Crab Shack (?) thanks to Lance and Rachel. We spent a lot of money and had a large time. Can't wait til next year ! Most importantly, a big thanks to Tom K
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IP842 will work great for Drop Shot and small Crank Baits. All of my Tournament Bass fishermen prefer the Popping blanks for Crankin Rods instead of the Blended blanks. Works great with small jigs across sandy points for Smallies also.
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Thanks a bunch Ron. It's always interesting to me to know the history of some of these rods i get in. Especially interesting when someone knew the builder or manufacturer. Thanks again Ron and Lance.
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Hi Lance. This rod is an ultra light, 6 ft graphite spinning rod with 6 gold frame Hardaloy SF guides. The smallest guide is a #10 and it has an 8 ring tip on it. The blank is a grayish purple gloss finish , reminds me of an earlier All Star blank. Has a Tenn. handle. The handle had gray foam residue on it . Some type of foam tape used for fastening the reel on ( I read something to that effect
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Yes. Jim I did spell his name wrong. I wil google it and see what I come up with Thanks guys.
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Just replaced 2 guides and cleaned up a little Spinning rod that appears to be from the early to mid '80's. It has the builders name on it, " Bud Earheart " from Mountain Home Arkansas. Just curious, does anyone know this builder ? I am always interested in the builder or manufacturer of some of these rods I get in for repair.
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I agree with Steve. I think the 7 power would be an over kill. I have built on the 945 and the 946 for throwing the A Rigs and they work great. From my experience with these blanks, the 945 is better for throwing 2-6 oz baits.
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I bought a plastic rod holder from Wallyworld for 9 bucks and bolted it to the end on one of my 10 ft work benches. It angles any direction.
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I will second Steve's choice. Everyone will have a different opinion on technique specific blanks. But I will go with the RX8+C812 on this one.
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